So I have a 95 civic sedan dx body with a b16a turbo traum pistons eagle rods supertech valve train duel springs. I’m running hondata s300v3 So car sat for the winter but prior before I parked it I was getting random bucking as if the injectors or fuel pump stopped working. I checked all my wires and grounds everything is good. So now spring time I start driving it again and it has gotten worse to the point I can’t drive it. It acts like I have no compression even tho it’s got good compression. I’ll be driving and then it will buck act like limp mode and have no power. Car doesn’t die but feels like it wants to stall untill I take my foot off the gas. Car idles normal and the problem is internet.. any ideas oh also a wlboro 225 pump and stand alone relay Id 1050x injectors

 

My simple first question would be -has the engine been tuned properly..?
If yes, did the car run fine until so and so time and started acting up..
Assuming no fueling/performance components to the motor were changed after tuning unless it was of the same part being replaced..
I would might think there's corrosion on a ground or loose connection kinda somewhere.. I would start narrowing it down by first unplugging every plug on the motor, thoroughly clean/flush it with electrical contact cleaner then remove EVERY ground wire that controls engine operation (fuel pump ground too) and actually sand or scotchbright the mating surfaces. Do not assume you have a good ground just because it's tight or you see it's "connected", if you have any grounds on a painted surface or has rust under it, clean it to bare metal.. inspect each wire going into the connector that is making the ground, is it frayed or loose? Are your battery terminals clean and tight?
Once those are checked and done then move on to checking inside your distributor, how does it look? Does the caps 4 prongs look worn or have build up? Is the rotor on snug? Does the metal edge look badly burnt? You can pull the spring loaded connector thats in the center of the cap out ( try to remove it while spinning it so it doesn't stretch the spring much) also check the spring coming out of the coil, are the springs rusty/broken? All wires inside the housing not burnt looking? If all is well then check the spark plugs, check for any cracks on the porcelain, are the plugs fouled at all, gapped at around .028 or less? Any bigger of a gap and you may get spark blow out I find.. Do not gap them to stock spec! I like to use the NGK BKR7E-11 plugs..
These are all just basic things I would start looking into first if your Not getting CEL light.

 

Hey thanks for the reply. Checked all the grounds today I keep popping the back up fuse under the hood and have popped the ecu fuse 2 times now. Yes it was properly tuned and the only change it has had was I went from a hood dump to a straight out the back with a vibrant turbo muffler. No CEL and my tuner has me using ngk 1095 plugs I had the iridium’s and he told me not to use them as I have a distributor. Checked the cap and rotor everything looks fine

 

Swap in a known-good dizzy. You might have a bad ignitor that is slowly failing. Remove the engine bay harness ground wire that connects to the thermo housing and clean it thoroughly.