Everything Needed to Turbo your D16 and Keep AC/ PS On a Budget! (Parts/ Prices)
Recently slapped a turbo on my d16y8 and wanted to document the parts I needed as well as cost since I spent a bunch of time researching and testing to see what works. This will be broken down into optional parts and essential parts. With these exact parts you don't have to shave the block down to fit the turbo and you can also keep AC and P/S!
First off with engine management you can go a couple routes, personally I went with a Snake Tuning Emulator (SnakeEMU is an OBD1 RTP + Datalog for 88-00 Honda Acura with B/D/H/F Engines) with a base price of $170 and a junkyard obd1 ecu ($45) you can use Honda Tuning Suite to make a basemap and tune it yourself or go to a tuner. You can also go super cheap with an FMU but I don't suggest it.
Essential Parts!
- Clutch kit (needed if you're gonna make any real power, chose based on your power goal, this is what I went with) - - $189
- x2 Slim fans for your AC Compressor and Radiator - - $50 for 2
- Boost Gauge (I got a glowshift unit but it doesnt really matter what brand) - anything from $20 to $50 ($44 for glowshift)
- Sandwich Plate for Oil Feed Line (you can cheap out and make your own but for $30 you cant go wrong with this unit from glowshift) - $30
- Turbo Manifold - - $98
- Wastegate (EMUSA Brand) - - $65.99
- Turbo (with this turbo and rev9 manifold I was able to toss it on the car and have it fit without shaving the block) - - $159
- Intercooler Kit (fit perfect for me no cutting or modifications also comes with a cheap bov) - Silver Intercooler Piping kit SQV BOV +Black Coupler for 92-00 Honda Civic EG EK - $227
- Turbo Feed and Return Kit (I've heard people have issues with these leaking but I've had 0 issues Mileage may vary) - - $41
- Downpipe and wastegate dump (required cutting and welding, I used a cheap harbor freight welder) - Turbo Downpipe For 92-00 Honda Civic 2.5" O.D & 1.5" O.D. Dump Tube GSR Type - $94.98 Will need to weld in an o2 bung for wideband + $10 for that
- Fitting to make the turbo feed fit in-between the turbo and manifold - MUST HAVE - - $14
- 90 Degree Fitting to make the oil drain fit - MUST HAVE - - $15
- Wideband (must have for your turbo car!) - - $181
- Intercooler Mounting Brackets - - $15
- Vacuum Line Tees - - $10.39
- Vacuum Lines (for plumping the wastegate, bov, boost gauge, etc) - Around 10$ from local parts stores
- OEM Honda Oil Pan Gasket for D16Y8 (Don't cheap out) - - $39.99
- Teflon Tape for Oil Lines and more -
4 Rolls 1/2 Inch(W) X 520 Inches(L) Teflon Tape,for Plumbers Tape,Plumbing Tape,PTFE Tape,Thread Tape,Plumber Tape for Shower Head,Pipe Sealing,Thread
- $6.99
- Oil Drain Bung for Oil Pan - - $12.99 Use a Christmas tree bit to drill the hole in the oil pan
- Grommet Kit to make the IAT sensor fit in the charge piping - - $10.99
- Oil I used - - $20.80
- OEM Honda Oil Filter - - $10.14
- Christmas Tree / Step Bit for drilling holes (tapping oil pan) - - $20
Non Essential Parts (Not Needed but I would definitely pick them up)
- Honda OEM Input Shaft Seal - - $12.99
- Honda OEM Input Shaft Bearing - - $34.56
- Boost controller - - $13
- Vacuum Block -
Hlyjoon Car 6 Port Boost 1/8NPT Vacuum Block Intake Manifold Kit Fuel Wastegate Turbo Fit for Auto Racing Universal
- $24
- Arp Headstuds (suggest if going over 6lbs of boost) - part # 208-4305 for d16y8's may vary - $120 if you can find them in stock
- Hondabond Gasketmaker - - $9
- Transmission Gasket Maker - - $9
- Locktite - - $6
Extra Section (Tools needed and misc.)
- I suggest a good diy home kit of tools - - $303
- Some sort of power drill - up to you what brand and line, I use in a professional setting and love them,
- Torque wrench (everyone should have one) - - $42
- Angle Grinder - heres a cheap one - $19.34
- Welder (this is the exact one I used) - - $210 you can find cheaper units as well
I will update if I forgot anything but this is a pretty comprehensive list that I spent a lot of time putting together, researching, and installing on my car. Ill post some photos as well of my build if I can
First off with engine management you can go a couple routes, personally I went with a Snake Tuning Emulator (SnakeEMU is an OBD1 RTP + Datalog for 88-00 Honda Acura with B/D/H/F Engines) with a base price of $170 and a junkyard obd1 ecu ($45) you can use Honda Tuning Suite to make a basemap and tune it yourself or go to a tuner. You can also go super cheap with an FMU but I don't suggest it.
Essential Parts!
- Clutch kit (needed if you're gonna make any real power, chose based on your power goal, this is what I went with) - - $189
- x2 Slim fans for your AC Compressor and Radiator - - $50 for 2
- Boost Gauge (I got a glowshift unit but it doesnt really matter what brand) - anything from $20 to $50 ($44 for glowshift)
- Sandwich Plate for Oil Feed Line (you can cheap out and make your own but for $30 you cant go wrong with this unit from glowshift) - $30
- Turbo Manifold - - $98
- Wastegate (EMUSA Brand) - - $65.99
- Turbo (with this turbo and rev9 manifold I was able to toss it on the car and have it fit without shaving the block) - - $159
- Intercooler Kit (fit perfect for me no cutting or modifications also comes with a cheap bov) - Silver Intercooler Piping kit SQV BOV +Black Coupler for 92-00 Honda Civic EG EK - $227
- Turbo Feed and Return Kit (I've heard people have issues with these leaking but I've had 0 issues Mileage may vary) - - $41
- Downpipe and wastegate dump (required cutting and welding, I used a cheap harbor freight welder) - Turbo Downpipe For 92-00 Honda Civic 2.5" O.D & 1.5" O.D. Dump Tube GSR Type - $94.98 Will need to weld in an o2 bung for wideband + $10 for that
- Fitting to make the turbo feed fit in-between the turbo and manifold - MUST HAVE - - $14
- 90 Degree Fitting to make the oil drain fit - MUST HAVE - - $15
- Wideband (must have for your turbo car!) - - $181
- Intercooler Mounting Brackets - - $15
- Vacuum Line Tees - - $10.39
- Vacuum Lines (for plumping the wastegate, bov, boost gauge, etc) - Around 10$ from local parts stores
- OEM Honda Oil Pan Gasket for D16Y8 (Don't cheap out) - - $39.99
- Teflon Tape for Oil Lines and more -
- Oil Drain Bung for Oil Pan - - $12.99 Use a Christmas tree bit to drill the hole in the oil pan
- Grommet Kit to make the IAT sensor fit in the charge piping - - $10.99
- Oil I used - - $20.80
- OEM Honda Oil Filter - - $10.14
- Christmas Tree / Step Bit for drilling holes (tapping oil pan) - - $20
Non Essential Parts (Not Needed but I would definitely pick them up)
- Honda OEM Input Shaft Seal - - $12.99
- Honda OEM Input Shaft Bearing - - $34.56
- Boost controller - - $13
- Vacuum Block -
- Arp Headstuds (suggest if going over 6lbs of boost) - part # 208-4305 for d16y8's may vary - $120 if you can find them in stock
- Hondabond Gasketmaker - - $9
- Transmission Gasket Maker - - $9
- Locktite - - $6
Extra Section (Tools needed and misc.)
- I suggest a good diy home kit of tools - - $303
- Some sort of power drill - up to you what brand and line, I use in a professional setting and love them,
- Torque wrench (everyone should have one) - - $42
- Angle Grinder - heres a cheap one - $19.34
- Welder (this is the exact one I used) - - $210 you can find cheaper units as well
I will update if I forgot anything but this is a pretty comprehensive list that I spent a lot of time putting together, researching, and installing on my car. Ill post some photos as well of my build if I can
Hey, How has the car been from the time you boosted it till you having it now in terms of reliability? I am picking up an Ek soon and would want to go D series turbo down the line. If not then maybe a N/a B20v build. I have had thoughts of boosting the D series that is already in it. I've done research on A/C with a turbo set up and read a few post saying that your A/C components usally gets heat soaked so it isn't worth it to have Ac because over time your ac will just blow hot air and you will have to keep replacing the compressor(I believe). Not sure how true this is as I've never boosted a civic keeping A/C ever. I'm not looking for huge power gains but just want a fun quick daily that I can drive to work and cruise around with buddies from time to time. So I guess my questions are, How has the car held up with it being boosted (reliability) because I want/will daily drive this car. And how has the A/C setup held up? Also is there any platform that I can maybe follow your build? Instagram, Youtube? Loved how you made a parts list of everything, If i do go turbo route I would probably use the list you made so a huge thanks to that as well!
Last edited by Kiven; May 22, 2022 at 08:00 PM. Reason: Fixing sentences and words
No update by the OP in over six months... either parts are still being accumulated OR it didn't work out like originally planned.
would love to get my y8 boosted.. but neighbor (cop) suggested best not to do so in SJ and perhaps needs to go state ref to get smogged?
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