overrev_it

a few problems we're facing with an ssautochrome kit is turbo leaking oil and boost...

let me explain, the turbo is a t3/t4 but comes with an internal wastegate housing(even though the kit is external wg), which mean it gots a wastegate flapper hole, but the problem here is that the downpipe flange doesn't close the flapper hole so i thought this was the problem with the boost leak, the turbo just doesn't spin, as i remember my friend told me there was a gasket there on the flapper hole and the turbo was spining before... i just need confirmation that leaving it open can cause an air/boost leak from the turbo... if yes, can i just use a diffrent downpipe flange with closed flapper hole? and do i need a gasket?

our second problem, is that there is oil leaking from the turbo to the downpipe, 1st we have fitted an oil restrictor thinking factory oil pressure was too high... oil leak decreased alot, but there was still oil in the downpipe smoking, so we removed the turbo took it to a turbo shop, and they told us it required stronger/thicker rings and new seals, the leak has deceased after the turbo service to little drops... but my friend was wondering, was it ok to solve the problem using thicker rings in the turbo vs the same oil pressure??? we are thinking it might not be the solution and now we are thinking we should increase the inlet oil line diameter so we could decrease the rate the oil is entering the turbo and be a bit more on the safe side???

also, about the whole oil line subject, we suspect we have welded the oil return plug in the wrong location on the pan, we have positioned it on the middle of the pan, and on the same level as the oil, we were wondering what's the best location to have the plug tapped to and what are the drawbacks of having it on a wrong location can it cause the oil flow to lessen and thus having too much oil at the turbo? causing it to leak oil???

sorry for all these noob questions as this is the first turbo setup we do and sorry for my bad english

i hope you can answer my questions as we plan to finish the car this week, with rebuilt stock block, fuel system, tuning and all!

TimKennard

sounds like the turbo's center cartridge is no good, which to me means the entire turbo is no good. oil drain should be at the top of the oil pan.

hate to say it, but this is why ssautochrome does not have a good reputation. poor quality, some ok and some crap. none are as good as a name brand like garrett. i suggest getting a good used name brand turbo. garrett, precision, or borg.

oh and the restrictor should only be used on a ball bearing type turbo i think. i'm not an expert but have learned the hard way cheap is not always the way to go and most of the time costs more in the long run to replace/fix.

good luck man

Boosted_B_Series

Ching Chong cheap turbos also require a oil restrictor.. We've had most luck keeping them alive with a 3an feed, oil restrictor and proper drain line.

I don't run cheap turbos but I see alot of customers that do. Try the 't04e 57 trim .50/.63' ebay turbo, its what most have the best luck out of and it will solve your turbo problems and 'flapper' issues. It only cost 130-150, it will get your foot in the door and hopefully run you into some fun.

Everyone has to start somewhere learning the value of quality parts, and for some ching chong parts is what it takes to get there.

I've seen some fun little 8psi stock block wonders that are a complete compilation of knock off parts. It's an ok way to learn I guess; if you like turning wrenches, have a lot of patience and time on your hands.

Best of luck
dk

wpgredteg

yes you can use a downpipe that has a flange that will completely block the internal wastegate port. or you can buy just the flange and get somebody to weld it on for you. i may have an extra flange around somewhere. pm me if you decide to go that route.

overrev_it

on which fact you have based when you have said "turbo's center cartridge is no good"? is it because i have said that we had to replace the rings(actually the circlip or the center retainer) and the seals of a brand new turbo??? maybe...

we'll see eventually... and actually i agree that in the long run it'll prove to be of the same price of a brand new NAME kit

i agree on your post, the turbo maybe will be replaced soon for the sake of head relief and we'll choose the proper feed line with or without a restrictor as needed i'll try to update of what will be need... but i'm kinda of mad that the original kit didn't put the lousy seals/circlip of the turbo and factory high oil pressure into account...

actually, we just saw a flange that came with the kit that closes the "flapper" hole that you put on between the DP flange and the turbine

hope everything works well, today we shall start the car with the stock oil lines with no restrictor and if oil start leaking again we will make sure to replace the lines with the correct an diameters, the oil pan plug will be relocated also today before startup... thank you guys for taking the time to answer my questions and for hoping me good luck!! i'll try to update

HiProfile

There was a HUGE "ssauto sucks" thread a while back. It's seen everything - turbine wheels warped worse than cheap pine, compressor wheels self-destructing, tons of people with turbo that leak from day one, housings that split in half, etc. It doesn't matter if the seals are replaced - they still require a good surface to seal on. If your CHRA and turbine wheel are warped or cut poorly, new seals won't stop the leak 100%.

Maybe where you come from the phrase "You get what you pay for" doesn't exist. Concerning eBay goods, they are words to live and die with. Its painfully obvious you did not do your research before purchasing. A quick google on the name returns over 80% "ssauto sucks" links on the 1st page alone.

overrev_it

you are right, they are not the best turbo kit's avaliable but definatley the cheapest... it's kinda was a gamble we bought the turbo kit with cheap amount of money if it works it works.. and thus far we fixed a good amount of bugs, some required to sit the car for days but overall if we feel boost then it's worth it

now, we have fixed the oiling issue but not 100% as you said, but it's not bothering us little drops with throttle i think we can live with it, but what we have is strange idle... like v8 idle... were running open dp... i want to note that little white smoke comes out of the exhaust.. engine is newley rebuilt.. here's a video of the lumpy idle...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZofaskVz6dg

HiProfile

It sounds like its firing on just TWO cylinders, wow. That would not be related to the turbo kit. Check your compression to see if you blew anything up, or that the builder didn't screw something up. A little white smoke is okay on a NEW motor, but should stop after its hot. Are you aware that you need to somehow add fuel for boost? FMU, piggyback, or an EMS like crome/hondata/etc. If you don't, its likely going to blow up very quickly. Hondas are not like Nissans/etc, which can deal with boost crudely due to their MAF sensor.

BTW you appear to have got what you paid for. Maybe you don't consider your time worth money, but my time is very valuable to me.