Hello everyone. Looking for advice.

I have an F23 block that’s coming back from the machine shop shortly. Engine was built for forced induction. (My build in on here somewhere) Long story short, it was running fine on 18 psi of boost making around 280hp (small Turbonetics turbo) for about seven or eight years until I shot a piston through the cylinder wall last year. Bought a new block which I had sent off and a CSS installed so that particular failure would not happen in the future. The cylinder head was salvageable, however I will be putting it all back together within a month or so. My question is upon first start up, which oil would you use as a break in and what’s the recommended break in procedures. When I originally built the motor seven or eight years ago, the tuning shop started it and got it running and tuned for me, and wasn’t sure of their procedure. Ever since the break-in oil was drained upon the first build, I’ve run Valvoline Synthetic VR1 Racing Oil.

Any help and advice would be appreciated.

 

Here's my break-in procedure:

I use SuperTech (Walmart) conventional 10W-30 for break-in. Crank the engine and check for leaks. If no leaks let it idle until it gets up to temp. Go drive ~10 miles, accelerating up to about 5,000 RPM, then decelerating (engine braking) down to about 2,000 RPM. Do this over and over for the 10 mile drive. Go home, change the oil and filter, refilling with new SuperTech conventional 10W-30. Drive for 500 miles, then change the oil and filter and refill with VR1.

 

From my previous research and what has worked well for me is to use non detergent 30W oil until the rings seat. This is probably even less slippery than conventional 10w30 which is what you want to seat the rings. You do not want to use synthetic at all until the rings fully seat. You check this by doing compression tests until the compression stops rising. If you put synthetic too early after an arbitrary number of miles then you won't really know if the rings are seated or not. But like Dax said you want to do lots of engine breaking. This sucks the piston rings to the walls which knocks down the peaks and seats them. Some people like to change the oil after the first warm up to get rid of shavings and assembly lube. Then you can do a few more changes until compression is done rising. I've done this twice and got 270 psi on a b18c rebuild and just recently 240 psi on a h22. You can also use break in oil if you want. It might only take 50 miles to seat. In your case you already have synthetic in it so it's too late now depending on how many miles. The helms manual states to run the engine at idle until warm at first start to break in the bearings. Don't excessively idle though because this is using up the crosshatch. Once the crosshatch is gone nothing you can do but rehone. Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

This is generally pretty close to what I recommend but I add some ZDDP additive for the initial startup and first couple oil changes.

Also make sure you prime the engine without the spark plugs installed so there's no force on the bearings before oil gets circulated.

 

Good call - I've never added the ZDDP additive to the break-in oil, but I think it's a good idea. And yes, I also prime with no spark plugs until I see oil pressure.

 

I know about priming but thank you very much for the ZDDP info. I may do that. May I ask what’s the theory behind it?

 

Thank you very much, that’s super helpful. I’ll also check out that link you posted.

 

Thank you for the info!

 

Just extra insurance to make sure all the metal-to-metal parts are happy until everything gets settled.

 

Thank you. I appreciate it.

 

You're welcome. ZDDP creates a protective layer which is especially important for flat tappet engines. This link has all the info https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-t...c-in-oil/30870
It's especially important for my h22 which are known to have valvetrain wear so I'm going to use T6 which has 1200 ppm zinc.

Are our vtec engines considered flat tappet? Rocker follower? It's similar enough to warrant zinc oil right? Because it's not roller rockers like K series. I think going with large cams can really exacerbate the wear on the pads.

 

My exact procedure, also