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I'm getting my 93 Del Sol B18C swap with turbo with tial wastegate and hks ssq bov. out of storage it's been years and years I was in the military so moved around a lot and finally am able to get it back out. I have to travel back to tx to get it. I know I will have to flush the radiator , change oil, I will drop and clean the fuel tank.
What else do I need to do before attempting to turn it over I will not turn the key until all fluids are flushed. I'm wondering about the wg spring and bov valve and of course look at all the vacuum lines. I will pull the plugs and spray a bit of lube into the cylinders, but what else is the mandatory have to do stuff?
Last edited by Oliviandial; Aug 21, 2021 at 04:28 AM.
So got the car out of storage and home travelled from tx to ga over a total of three days . First thing I've done is replace the clutch master cylinder and flushed / cleaned the resovoir and clutch hydraulic system. Next thing is the fuel tank drain and clean replace in tank strainer
Engine bay still needs cleaned up as well This was along the road getting back home at the rest stop And this was getting it up onto the trailer without damaging it
Last edited by Oliviandial; Aug 21, 2021 at 04:33 AM.
Reason: Added pics
Good to see your back and got the car back finally! put new plugs and a battery, check the alternator voltage make sure its good. Check if any rodents may have got in the engine bay, they like to chew on things.. Looks good though i think after all this you should be able to fire it up! id hook up the lap top if you have Hondata etc. and get the live data showing to make sure all sensors are reading properly before you start it.
I'm certain it was tuned with hondata back in the day but I never had a cess to it, do I just buy a license and set it up to check the sensors I have no experience with the computer side of the car. I'll be draining the tank this week and putting in a new in tank fuel strainer and probably put a little sea foam in for the lines , I picked up fogging oil for the cylinders also.
Also about the turbo It has been a long time but do I need to pre prime or oil the bearings manually before using the oil pump to get things lubed up again? Just trying to be overly safe really.
Last edited by Oliviandial; Aug 23, 2021 at 04:38 AM.
Reason: Spelling
So I drained all the fuel and put fresh gas in it, did spark plugs and put in new battery.
I put the key in all the electronics light up from the new battery I turn the key I get the fuel pump humm, but no click or anything from the starter. I put a clip on the power for the starter and jumped it from the battery and the starter kicks on and cranks the engine over. I looked at the relay in the fuse box under the hood and it still looks good. I was worried after it had been sitting so long the engine might not turn over but it turns over just fine. Any ideas where to work back from on getting the key to crank the motor?
Also just from hot starting the starter it turns over but doesn't fire up is that a key issue where I have to turn the key while hot jumping the starter at the same time to try to get it fired up?....so tried this and car still didn't fire up but starter still turns motor over...
I was wondering what else to look at maybe the distributor , the car was just sitting I didn't find any animals or chewed wires or anything.
Last edited by Oliviandial; Aug 25, 2021 at 12:21 PM.
Your clutch switch is likely the culprit. Double check the top of the clutch pedal and make sure there is a pad in the hole for closing the clutch/starter switch.
I will check it when I get done with work this week, I did do the clutch master cylinder first thing so that may be it, are there any other safety switches I need to look at?
Hopefully that is all it is getting up in there is chore if the cover is still there can I press the switch in by hand and turn the key to see if that works to verify if the switch is busted? Thanks for the help. I'll sleep a lot better once I actually get the car to crank and start with the key. Been a little stressed the past couple weeks ... Anxious more than anything ..
Sorry for asking so many things in this thread I just searched and found information I the forums I will try what some of the other posters suggested and get back on here with an update hopefully it's not 95 degrees when I get home today
Last edited by Oliviandial; Aug 26, 2021 at 02:12 AM.
I believe it is the neutral safety switch like the other poster said , when I got it out of storage and pushed the clutch in it went right to the floor and I heard something, which now I believe was the plastic grommet for the upper switch. ... The clutch being all the way down is what prompted me to just swap the clutch master cylinder and flush the fluid. This is what was in the floorboard under the clutch pedal
So I got up under there today when I got off work and pushed the button in and turned the key and it cranked the motor over, so 100 percent the neutral switch , I will put a new grommet in as soon as possible but now I have to take the whole assembly out because while I was under there trying to hit the button , my finger slipped and knocked the return spring loose out of the notch it goes in. At least that eases my frustration a bit. When I cranked it over with the key it didn't fire up so I will have to deal with that after I deal with the pedal first.
Still gotta fix the neutral switch but I got the engine to fire up with some starter fluid at the throttle body so spark is good fuel pressure goes up and primes but not sure if it's the injectors being clogged from sitting or fuel filter or what. What are the next immediate steps to check and how?
How dangerous is it to remove the fuel rail and test it , I did notice that when cranking the fuel pressure seemed low around 30-40 psi . I checked the voltage at the injectors and they were all reading about the same 11.79 volts. It was nice hearing the engine startup even if it was in starting fluid of course it was showing lean in the guage. I will try the method of cranking it with the fuel injectors out and see what happens.
Well I tried cranking the motor over with the fuel rail out and non of the injectors are firing so what could this be . I will Google around but since this thread is going I will listen to all input from the forum also. Thanks
Haven't gotten down to the ecu to check yet; I also rechecked the grounds and unbolted them and scrubbed the grounds, and reattached them to the body. If I cant run this down, looks like with so little time that I have from working might need to let some experts have a look at it.
Last edited by Oliviandial; Sep 2, 2021 at 08:57 AM.
I did try a 9v on the injector I believe it clicked bit at this point I think I am going to have someone else help me out with the electrical / fuel issue I've done the stuff I feel comfortable with. Thanks for all the suggestions, I will post up when the get a little further along. Also in e it's up and running thinking of using ebtech over in Atlanta for tuning. Heard decent things about them.
Update - you were right the injectors were locked up, I had ebtec take a look at it and they figured it out in about an hour, they will be tuning it soon and hopefully have it back on the road not too long after that. I will be tuning to about 335 I don't really want more than that because I still want to use it almost everyday if it was more of a weekend car I throw some bigger tires on and turn it up, bit for now just over 300 is good enough for me to have a little fun every once in a while, besides I plan to probably keep it for a long time I have already had the car for about 15 years . I will post the tune update later to the forums when I get it back.
Update - the car has been tuned now by ebtec on pump gas at 14psi and on the wastegate spring we hit right where we wanted to hit pulled 330whp and 232 ft/lbs. Should actually be getting it back soon , I still have to register it and all that since the this thread was about getting it out of storage. Now got to save up for fixing interior pieces and a polish for the outside.