HondaDad13's Newbie B16a2 build
Hey all,
I'm new to this and doing my first ever build. I've got a b16a2 out of 2000 si looking to build up the internals and boost. Hoping to get 400 plus in a 6k budget. Any insight to a parts list and things I should watch out for would be greatly appreciated.
I'm new to this and doing my first ever build. I've got a b16a2 out of 2000 si looking to build up the internals and boost. Hoping to get 400 plus in a 6k budget. Any insight to a parts list and things I should watch out for would be greatly appreciated.
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Give a look at the kits here, they aren't 100% complete, but really damn close and will give you an idea of what you need. I think your budget will get you there if you're planning on just keeping this car on the street.
Give a look at the kits here, they aren't 100% complete, but really damn close and will give you an idea of what you need. I think your budget will get you there if you're planning on just keeping this car on the street.
To stay on budget, avoid the pitfalls of buying "blingy" things you don't need (fuel rails, cam gears, etc.), and avoid cheaping out in areas that need quality parts - the cheap parts fail fast and cost you more in the long run.
I agree with Eric - the Go-Autoworks kits fit well, have quality parts, and the customer support is top notch.
I would do h-beam rods and forged pistons, and maybe consider CSS for future insurance when you decide to turn it up.
Don't forget to budget for machine work on the block and head (~$600) and a dyno session (~$500).
I agree with Eric - the Go-Autoworks kits fit well, have quality parts, and the customer support is top notch.
I would do h-beam rods and forged pistons, and maybe consider CSS for future insurance when you decide to turn it up.
Don't forget to budget for machine work on the block and head (~$600) and a dyno session (~$500).
What kind of fuel will you be running? I'll just assume E85...
Fuel system - upgrade the pump. 340, 400, 450, 525 lph in-tank pumps are all roughly in the same price ballpark - go with a name brand pump from a reputable source (lots of knock-offs out there). I would run a relay and large (12AWG or larger) wire for fuel pump power leads. You can buy a pre-made harness for this or make your own. You'll need larger injectors - I'd look in the 1050+ cc/min range. Bosch-style injectors are the way to go these days. Keep your stock lines, stock rail, and stock regulator for now and put a new OEM-style filter on. Not having an adjustable regulator, you won't need a fuel pressure gauge. Spend that money you saved on other things you will NEED.
CSS will require you to bore up to the next size. If you're still at 81mm, you'll need to go with 81.5mm pistons. Buy the pistons, send your bare block and the new pistons to CNC Werx and pay to have them install the CSS and to bore/hone/deck. CSS with the added machine work will be ~$700. Plan on another ~$150 for shipping both ways with insurance.
Fuel system - upgrade the pump. 340, 400, 450, 525 lph in-tank pumps are all roughly in the same price ballpark - go with a name brand pump from a reputable source (lots of knock-offs out there). I would run a relay and large (12AWG or larger) wire for fuel pump power leads. You can buy a pre-made harness for this or make your own. You'll need larger injectors - I'd look in the 1050+ cc/min range. Bosch-style injectors are the way to go these days. Keep your stock lines, stock rail, and stock regulator for now and put a new OEM-style filter on. Not having an adjustable regulator, you won't need a fuel pressure gauge. Spend that money you saved on other things you will NEED.
CSS will require you to bore up to the next size. If you're still at 81mm, you'll need to go with 81.5mm pistons. Buy the pistons, send your bare block and the new pistons to CNC Werx and pay to have them install the CSS and to bore/hone/deck. CSS with the added machine work will be ~$700. Plan on another ~$150 for shipping both ways with insurance.
Decide this first, then base your fuel system around the fuel you choose.
For CSS, you don’t really need it around the 400hp level, but it helps, and if you plan to do over 400, it will support more power. If you have a stock block, assuming you do, you’ll want to go to 81.5mm bore. Low compression pistons are good. Stay around 9.0:1 or down to 8.5:1 compression ratio. There are lots or good brands: J.E., CP, Wiseco, and others...if your block has already been bored to 81.5mm, then you should do an 82mm bore to ensure it has a good surface/bore/hone. If you bought the engine used then generally it should be disassembled before purchasing new pistons so you know what bore you are at.
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Hondata can chip it for you if you send it to them. That’s the easiest way.
I disagree with this - I would aim for 9.0:1 to 10.0:1. It will greatly help driveability out of boost, and it will make more power in boost.
You need an OBD1 ECU that is socketed (not chipped) for an S300. The S300 needs male pins on the board, while a "chipped" ECU typically has female sockets on the board. I also recommend sending your ECU to Hondata and having them do the socketing/installation. Go ahead and plan on having the capacitors replaced as well. While it's there, you might as well have them install boost control as well. The ECU can be a P28 or even a non-VTEC ECU like a P06 - VTEC can be added. Similarly, an ECU from a car with an automatic transmission can be changed to work with a manual transmission and Hondata. This info is useful, as typically virgin P28's from manual cars command more $ and are harder to find than a P06 from an auto car.
I don't think that's necessary yet. 400whp can be done on the stock sleeves without a problem. Anything over 500whp is going to require other components and hardware to compensate for any issues. But I think the priority needs to go elsewhere as opposed to CSS CNC WERX. It's just not the first thing you think about. You want the other parts to be just as robust, so, break down your list first.
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Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Oct 10, 2010 07:25 AM







