123HondaFan

Last week I picked up a 94 Civic HB VX with 100k for maybe more than I should have paid. I have been looking and haven't really found any build thread about the Z1 and I have alot of Q's that I need A's for. I'm looking for a decent weekend warrior that can cut it the local corners (curbs if I'm unlucky). I don't want to make crazy hp just about 225-275 enough to have fun with. I don't want to dump 10k into this thing I'm mostly going to be using tax return money so I want to try and use OE parts or cost effective aftermarket parts. I want a reliable DD that Im not going to have to fix all the time.


#1 Swapping the head...
I saw somewhere that someone said that if you put a Z6 head on it drops the CR way to low and won't even provide any benefit but isn't a low CR good for boost? Using the CR calculator it said that the swap would give me 8:8.1 isn't that great for boost?

#2 Tuning...
I have been looking and everyone seems to be using the Crome chipped ECUs. Is the Crome just cheap or is it really that nice. I want to go with the s300 from Hondata because of the datalogging and the in-car instant update tuning abilities. I dont mind the $600 price tag if its going to be amazing and the best. I want to do most of he tuning myself thats why I though the s300would be the best bet.

#3 Beefing up the block...
I want to go the turbo route (after I get the s300 and try DIY tuning) so I want to get beefy rods but I want to try and stay with OE parts. I thought I saw somewhere that you can put LS rods and the D crank. If not what rods should I go with? If seen people using SCAT and Eagle rods what would be the best way to with rods?

#4 Head work...
Rumor has it that the stock cam is decent for up to 400 hp so I'll prolly keep that stock. What should I do as far as valves, springs, ect. I haven't heard of any other companies that make parts for the valvetrain other than Crower.

#5 Fuel and Spark...
Abviously a decent fuel pump is needed but what size injectors should I be looking into. The stock re rated for 240 I believe should I just get a stock set blueprinted or maybe some DSM 450's? I will probably end up using mostly MSD parts to pump up the spark and help fuel economy but which parts are worth buying? I know the 6A box is nice but what about the blaster coil and rotor caps?

I will probably think of more questions later and update the main post often. I will post pics soon so everyone can see what I working with

123HondaFan

Know one can help me out?

thumper64

The Z1 has weak rods and it's still a 1.5 liter. The C/R is ok for boost, but it will be a dog until you get into boost. You're better off getting a z6 engine or a B series. Z6s are cheap and once you figure the upgrades to a SOHC, a DOHC will not cost that much more and make more power with more room to advance.

I know I sound like a typical B series fan boy, but I looked at building up a D series and it just didn't make sense in the end.

Relic1

the reason there are no build threads for Z1s is that it's a crappy cantidate for a build. You'll get more power and better reliability for cheaper with a different engine.

The Z1 was designed to be a fuel saver, as a result the little things that makes a honda engine capable of being made to make the power you're talking about were fine tuned out of it.

1. Z6 head on a Z1 block will result in such low compression that the car will run poorly, even with a lot of boost.

2. Crome is used because it's cheap. It's not bad, but there are a lot better tuning platforms out there. (eCtune, Neptune)

3. sticking with the Z1 block will haunt you, again things have been changed in the quest for mileage. a Z6 block has so many parts available that it would be silly to not swap.

5. Stock ignition system is good for ~400hp, leave it alone unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket.
Injectors - 450s should be enough - DSM or RC, either will work.

sde780

Swap it for a y7, y8, or z6. Boost the D, get a good tune, you'll have 200 hp reliably

123HondaFan

I want to hang on to the Z1 block to save a LITTLE change in my pocket plus my girlfriend is getting a Civic soon so I figurd when Im done with this motor I can drop it into her car and move onto something better (F23BlockH22Head). I know the Z6 head on the Z1 block nets low CR but I can also get new pistons and raise that up. I dont understand what things could be changed on the block. I want to stay with the Z1 because of the higher (D16Z6 1.52 D15Z1 1.62 B16A 1.74) R/S to give me more revs to keep a little bit biger turbo spooled more and keeping closer to my powerband after shifts.

sde780

The d15 rods are puny

ferio252

Puny like his mawsels. LoL

K20 Swap!

20-EM2-05

Buy another complete D Series engine+transmission.

I'd suggest you go for a D15B, D16Z6, D16Y8, or a D16Y7 block with a D16Y8 Head (Mini-Me) swaps.

Vtec-e will not come close to those pure vtec motors.

Spending all those tax income money on that Z1 can get you like 5 D16z6 short blocks

But if you have your mind set to the Z1. I'd suggest you just boost the **** out of it then get another D

sde780

Most economical way to get power is NOT to build your z1. Swap is cheapest

123HondaFan

Your not getting that I am swapping in a Z6 head. I'm keeping the Z1 BLOCK and putting a Z6 HEAD on it. I know the stock rods suck I'm planning on getting SCAT or Eagle rods which I would like some input on. I would like some input from someone that has information about the questions I have asked and no (except Relic1) has even answered anything. Please remember that I know the Z1 HEAD is crap the block has no problems Im not building the Z1 motor I'm building a Z1 block with a Z6 head.

sde780

THE Z1 BLOCK BLOWS

Don't want to listen? Fine, do it your way, but don't say economical and build d15 in the same sentence

Relic1

Sorry man, everyone is trying to talk you out of this for a reason.

As good as it sounds to build up a cheap lower end, especially with the R/S ratio, there's been many people that have looked into building the Z1 block and most of them stop short of even starting the project due to cost/return.
Building the Z1 block is going to cost more than picking up a Z6 swap (complete with trans) and simply boosting that to 200-225 (which it will do without building it) plus with the Z1 lower end, you'll end up with little problems that don't have real solutions yet... and more than likely less power in the end.

One other thing to think of, the VX/CX trans has super long gearing for better mileage. You'd want to replace that with the SI/EX trans anyway... add another reason to swap.

As much as I enjoy the Z1. That head and block were built for mileage, anything else will create headaches.

123HondaFan

I have seen anywhere what the big difference between the Z6 ad Z1 block. What little problems have people had that haven't been solved I haven't seen anywhere anything like that. I know the VX tranny is is big but I want to keep it to retain some mpg's I'm not going to be running the 1/4 just have fun around town/highway. Anyone have advice about building the head keeping the stock Z6 cam?

doggworld1233

if you want mpg just lean the motor out when not in boost... you can see 35+mpg... i would just get a Z6 swap($600) and boost that with a t304e at 9lbs and you will see 200-235HP

94EG8

Your taking a bad idea and then making it even worse. Trying to build a VX is bad enough, but the VX tranny just flat out sucks for anything other than all out mileage. Even a DX/LX tranny will help somewhat.

As for the VX engine itself its got a weak crank and rods. You could swap the crank out for one from an OBD1 JDM D15B Vtec and rods and pistons from a D15B Vtec/D16Z6 but good luck finding the stuff, even if you did it would be unlikely it would be cost effective.

accrdwgnguy

I'm gonna have to agree with everyone else here. A friend of mine is boosting his 250k mile Z6 at 11 psi, for the last 10k miles. Engine is still stock internally, he estimates 200-220 whp.

Look around, I bet you can get a Z6 cheap. I bought a whole wrecked 95 EX for $150. Engine runs perfect, its in my DX now.

But hey, if you got the cash to spend, have fun.

Chris 91CiVX

Ok first of all let me say what's up everyone. I invite you all to check out my profile @ www.streetfire.net the link is at the bottom of my sig , to see more picture's on my 1992 Honda Civic VX D15Z6 Hybrid Turbo/Nitrous Motor. Built from a D15Z1 Block With D16Z6 Trans , Head , Intake Mani + sensor's , Z6 JDM Style 4-2-1 Thermal Tech wrapped Header , 97 Civic LX 240cc Injector's , Big Aftermarket Fuel Rail , Adjustable FPR , Custom 9pc OEM Acura Legend earthing Kit , still using the OEM Z1 Wideband O2 , Apexi VAFC2 wired in by me , Tuned (Half ***'ed untill i learn more.) by me , 2 1/2 inch inlet high flow cat converter with 2 1/2 inch outlet on a full 2 1/2 inch custom exhaust piping to my 05 Lotus Elise Stage 2 Track Exhaust converted to fit my EH2.

Latest trip to Corpus Christie cost me $50 bucks with clocking 550 mile's on the trip meter and still having a notch or too before the E line.

Thats with using 93 octane Super Unleaded Pump Gas from Shell Gas Station's Only with a fresh oil change of full synthetic 10-30w Mobil High Mileage , 4 other passenger's with ice chest and typical road trip gear and fishing tackle.

Chris 91CiVX

Oh, pretty soon as in a week or two i should have a 75 NX wet shot to throw on my little Hybrid motor to really test it until i build the second project out of the left over Z1 Head & Z6 Block for a High Compression Nitrous Motor that will be a for sure tire screamer when I'm done with it. That one however will be tuned on a P28 with s300 managing the wideband O2 if all else fail's switching to a Z6 O2 for easier tune ability.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

EDIT: Ah, **** it. Didn't read the whole thread.

Zen Chameleon

Lol

thumper64

You could swap a z6/Y8/Y7 crank and rods in. The z1 uses a 1.6 liter block, but a 1.5 liter crank and special rods.

94EG8

Y7 injectors are only 180cc, even the stock Z1 injectors are 190, D15B7/D16Z6/B-series are 240 though. Btw this thread is like a year old.

hatchaddict01

you got to be ****ing kinding me, you sir have no clue what you are talking about i suggest you go and read up on you d-series be for posting again.
z1= 1.5 block, 1.5 crank, with long rods and short pistons just like d15b but 16cc dish pistons