The parts are purchased that I have decided to got with other then the bisimoto 2.4 cam.
94 civic eg body. We already put a stock y8 in it. So its on a ob1 p28 ecu. Running as is. My back up I bought
Has eagle rods in a d16y8. We have notched the block. Ported the oil pump ports to match the larger hole. We are doing the bearing mod where you drill them to spread oil wider across the bearing. Hopefully. I am wanting to use a z6 crank. Y8 crank pulley. Y8 head y8 intake mani and everything else. Dizzy too. Keep it all y8 to make life simple. Arp head studs are purchased and here.
T28gtr by revv 9.
ram horn bottom mount header

Oem honda head gasket.
Here's where I've stopped.

Water pump and timing belt? Gates ?
s300?
Stay obd1 ?
I have vx big gear trans s20 and s40 short gear y8 trans. Which ones gonna feel better with the gt28r disco potato 🥔

 

My spelling is crap but I promise my builds not. I've got photos.

 

Short Gear.

Big gear will feel horrible but will give you better fuel economy.

Water pump, Nissin (Honda OEM manufacturer) or NWP (Nissan OEM manufacturer).
Timing Belt, I like Contitech (German)

S300 IS OBD1 but piggy back so you can tune. Crome works but is limited in comparison. No turbo, Crome would be fine. Or you can do Neptune which is more in line with S300 but not quite to the same level. If turbo..... S300.

 

Gates pump and timing belt are good. You likely don't need the fancy blue belt.

I'm a fan of the Hondata S300. There are others out there with varying levels of support and varying costs. Depends on how much headache you want and how much support you think you may need. If you're not tuning it, find out what your tuner likes and use that.

Yes, stay OBD1 unless you're going backwards to OBD0 and running something oldschool like a Zdyne.

I would recommend you use the Y8 transmission. Despite being the "short" geared hydro D-series transmission, the gears are still longer than the B-series LS, which is typically thought of as a "long" gear transmission. How will you be using the car?

 

If the Y8 is considered a long geared transmission, I'd hate to think what they say the VX tranny is.

 

"endless" or "drag limited"

 

yo. It’ll be a daily And yeah I own a vx trans and I have the y8 s40 trans in now. The vx is s20 I think Should I worry about the head or just roll with it for now. I’m ready to take this stock y8 out and put the turbo a/c motor in.

Gt28r disco potatoe

 

Port matching and squeezing in ac

More notching

So stick head or what. It’s ported on the intake side. Do some exhaust too ? Stock valves retainers and springs or go nuts ?

Nothing for eagle rods to clear

Rev 9 disco potatoe “greddy” lol

 

What are your power goals? What will you be revving to?

If you're going to stick with the stock cam and stock rev limit, your stock valve train will probably be OK. If you're going to increase the rev limit and/or put the Bisi 2.4 cam in, I would do springs at a minimum. For a street car some folks say to stick with steel retainers as they are more durable than titanium. I'm guessing you'll be fine with stock ports and stock valves. Regardless of what you do for cam/springs/retainers, I would definitely have a valve job done, have your guides inspected and either knurled or replaced as required, have new stem seals installed, and have the head surfaced with the appropriate finish (the last part is very important).

 

my power goals are 300 450 being like retarded I think for a daily 3 is gonna be plenty fun and it’s already ported on the intake side type r throttle body and intake plenum is port matched to that 62 throttle body. Crowler makes a turbo cam I’ve been looking at. Maybe do the crowler turbo street cam and springs. Hate to drop a vavle smh. And machine shops gonna kill me. Anyone know any good North Carolina machine shops?

 

There are lots of cam choices out there for single cams. I had bad luck with Comp Cams, and I've read about others that have as well. I'm using a Delta 272-2 regrind now. Don't have any personal experience with Crower. If you do decide to get new valves, I recommend Ferrea 6000 series valves and Ferrea keepers. Peace of mind.

 

I appreciate it Dax. I read a lot on cams and saw that people were having bad luck and some even snapping. Keeping in mind not everyone has stuff installed to spec smh. I am taking my time. Double checking all my clearances and got my buddy will he’s ported the oil pump and shimmed it. Oem Honda pump. Read bad stuff on others with that part as well. I was looking into ferrea cause we sell them at work a lot. Still really worried on the top end as far as what I pick. I want to buy it once. And only take this thing apart to maybe clean stuff up and just do a re ring kit if everything’s good. Hate the idea of a built once drove a while. Done for ever. I got a block guard An expensive one. Run it or no?

 

completely forgot. I found a crank finally. We didn’t want the y8 crank. My old zc dohc crank will work great and it has the dual oiling ports thank god.

everything checks out. Bottom end wise. Just another d16 crank Try to keep the pics coming

 

Yeah, my Comp cam pitted out the lobes very quickly. I had it re-ground, then it broke in shipping. After that I went back with an OEM core with a 272-2 re-grind and haven't had any more issues.

If I were you, I'd just go ahead and buy Ferrea 6000's, new valve locks, new stem seals, and whatever pressure springs your cam calls for. Some cams require the cam tub in the head to be clearanced - make sure you plan for this if you buy a cam with a lot of lift, though I don't think you'll need it for your goals. I made over 300 whp with the stock Z6 cam, stock port head.

I'm not a fan of block guards, though some have had luck with them. I would personally do CSS. Or, no block guard at all if you're going to be staying in the low 300's for power. I definitely wouldn't do a block guard if you are not planning to bore up 0.5mm AFTER the block guard is installed. You can push the top of the cylinders out of shape with a block guard. If you've already started assembling the engine, you're probably not going to want to pull it apart and send it off for CSS, so I'd just go with no block guard.

@TheShodan - maybe this should get moved to the FI forum?

 

I don't have global privileges as of yet, but I'll pass it along.

 

IIt’s together with the y8 crank. It’s just got a few bolts in it so we could get the turbo stuff mounted and fabricated. Maybe I’ll just get rid of the guard. Work will give me cash back it’s just tapped in. **** idk. Maybe stuck smh.

I appreciate it again All the help I can get.

Send crank off to get checked block and head Have then check all that I guess. Wonder what that’s gonna run me smh. Biggest hold up. I’ve never used a machine shop. Always good luck junk yard builds. But not for myself personally. And no they didn’t always last. This is my only car lol. But having a second motor has made life easy. Buy a shell or put it in the daily and hope the machine shop is reliable and affordable snd thinks something I can drive for a year I’d hope. Saying a year cause I’m gonna lay into a little after the break in. No dumb clutch dumping ****. I’m 31. Just wanna be able to ease into the power Gt28 should come on quick?