Hi all,

First post. I've searched and searched and have seen numerous ways people are connecting these. To cut right to the chase we are doing a mini-me swap and have a Y8 head with Z6 intake manifold to put on our Y7 block. The head and manifold came together from a FB find, and the left IACV hose is connected to the coolant nipple near the VTEC solenoid on the head (as it came, labeled in yellow in the pics), with the FITV hose cut at the nipple (blue labeling). Behind our Y7 block the main coolant pipe has one hose coming off the top (labeled in red).

My main questions for the moment is how to best connect these. All of the Z6 manifold diagrams I've seen show the left IACV hose connecting to the main coolant pipe behind the block, so I don't know why they guy I bought it from has it connected to the nipple on the head. I also am not sure where to connect the FITV hose?

Would it work to connect the left IACV hose to the coolant pipe, and the FITV hose to the nipple on the head? Or would coolant not flow correctly that way? It appears that is how it is hooked up in the reference diagram, with the hose circled in red. Any help or confirmation on this is greatly appreciated!

-Carson

 

I believe you run the mid water pipe nipple to the back nipple of the IACV, the front IACV niple to the back FITV, then the front FITV to where you have in yellow distributor side marked as to the IACV.

Simply, your yellow marking IACV should be moved from the head and be put to your red marking water pipe nipple. Then your FITV that isn't connected marked in blue should go to the spot in the head you pulled the IACV off of.

 

Awesome, this is what I was hoping to confirm! If anyone else can 2nd that it is greatly appreciated. This is was I was thinking from everything I have looked at, but was a bit confused given the frankenstein configuration.

Thanks again,

 

The difference being your IM doesn't have the small nipple below the heater hose nipple like the B7 does. The B7 and stock Z6 IM both have a touch more routing of the small hoses as seen in your FSM page diagram.

The ZC IM doesn't have the lower nipple either and you run it from the top nipple to FITV -> IACV -> Rear water pipe nipple if I remember correctly. I had a Z6 with the ZC IM and it threw me off being it didn't have quite the same coolant setup.

I can take a look at the block water pipe and confirm it only had the 1 nipple on the water pipe much like the Y7 mid nipple setup. Will get back to you on that, I've since torn the motor down and almost scrapped the block. Still have the ZC IM too heh.

 

Hi all,

Working to finish up a mini-me swap on our hornet car. The car started as a 97 civic DX hatch, and trying to determine some final things (electrical and other):

- What throttle cable do I need? The Y7 cable seems to be too long for the Z6 intake, unless I'm routing it wrong. Do people use Y7 cable on Z6 TB, or what else can I use?

- If I want to stick with my Y7 harness, I know I need VTEC wired to ECU. I assume I need to convert 3-prong IACV to 2-prong IACV for the Z6 intake? anything besides those two things?

- What ECU should I use to make this "easy" on ourselves? I really have no need or interest in chipping it unless it's necessary. Everyone says P28 OBD1, but are there alternatives, or any pros to keeping it OBD2? What OBD2 ECU would I need? If I'm sticking with 7Y harness do I definitely need one or the other?

Thanks in advance for any help. Have been searching as much as possible, but this is the first swap we've ever done, so may have more questions as we go.

-Carson

 

I merged your threads as it's all about the same car and the help you require as you go.

BTW, I confirmed the coolant hose bit. The VX and DX have a dbl nipple water pipe while the Si and I think USDM CX only have 1 nipple on the water pipe and looking over the setups, it is exactly as I described to you with the end of the IACV to the water pipe nipple and the beginning of the FITV to the head nipple.

You probably need a Z6 or B7/B8 throttle cable for the Z6 IM.

 

Awesome thank you Tom.

If anyone has further info on my ECU questions it's much appreciated.

 

Minime, P28 would be the preferred being over time you could chip it and start tuning it to get the most out of your setup.

OBD2 would be the Y8 ECU.

If you don't chip and tune, neither ECU will be a great match but will just work okay. Staying OBD2 keeps the timing marks normal as OBD2 was a 12 degree btdc while the P28 ECU is going to expect a 16 degree btdc. But staying OBD2 (pre 99) doesn't allow you to tune to dial it in to your motor and setup. I believe the ignition timing can be fixed with tuning on the OBD1 ecu.