Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion

B series

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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 05:05 AM
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Default B series

I went to get my car dyno tuned done well on my way home my car dies it turns over just wont crank fuel pump is not cutting on. The main relay is brand new from honda. I have a aem 340 in tank with factory fuel pump harness I'm stuck an dont know whats causing this. Everything is brand new could the factory wiring for the fuel pump cause this issue?? Any of you you guys lead me into the right direction I would be greatly appreciated.


Last edited by Zach West; Feb 24, 2020 at 05:06 AM. Reason: Miss spelled
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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 05:33 AM
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Default Re: B series

Check whether hood fuse 31 or dash fuse 24 is blown.

When you turn the key to ON(II), does the CEL remain on? Any CEL codes stored in ECU?
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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 06:05 AM
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From what I could tell at the time all fuses are good an yes cel stays on when key is on an I havent hooked the laptop to you to see if through codes this happened at like 4 am
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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 06:08 AM
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Default Re: B series

Originally Posted by Zach West
From what I could tell at the time all fuses are good an yes cel stays on when key is on an I havent hooked the laptop to you to see if through codes this happened at like 4 am
You must specifically check fuses 31 and 24. This is best done by verifying that the two fuses have battery voltage on both test tabs with the key in ON(II).

If the two fuses are good, then the ECU may have a bad capacitor, which is a common problem for old Civic ECUs.

If the starter cranks the engine, then you should also check whether the G101 ground on the thermostat housing is disconnected, loose or corroded.
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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 06:21 AM
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Default Re: B series

Ok ill double check those fuses when I get home an it shouldnt be the ecu its a fully reconditioned p28 from hondata with hondata s300v3 an I didnt think about the grounds ill check that as well. Thanks man ill keep ya informed on what I found out
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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 12:58 PM
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Default Re: B series

Originally Posted by Zach West
Ok ill double check those fuses when I get home an it shouldnt be the ecu its a fully reconditioned p28 from hondata with hondata s300v3 an I didnt think about the grounds ill check that as well. Thanks man ill keep ya informed on what I found out
Just to be clear, when Hondata installs an S300v3, they do not automatically replace the capacitors. This is an extra service, and if you did not pay for it, it was probably not done.
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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 01:07 PM
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Default Re: B series

I paid for it lol the computer was $800 I did my research on it i have another p28. Thats oem with hondata s3p0v3 in it and something went bad in it causing my fuel pump not to work in another car had to put it on a switch an didnt really care for it that way an on this car i didnt want it to be like that so i made sure it was a fully reconditioned one you can open it up and tell that everything is new
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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 09:25 PM
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Default Re: B series

Originally Posted by Zach West
Ok ill double check those fuses when I get home an it shouldnt be the ecu its a fully reconditioned p28 from hondata with hondata s300v3 an I didnt think about the grounds ill check that as well. Thanks man ill keep ya informed on what I found out
You cannot purchase a reconditioned ECU and s300v3 directly from Hondata, so where did you order it from ?
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Old Feb 25, 2020 | 04:06 AM
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Default Re: B series

Ha Motorsports.. Ill take a picture of it you can clearly see that its been fully reconditioned,,
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Old Feb 25, 2020 | 04:07 AM
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Old Feb 25, 2020 | 08:56 PM
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Default Re: B series

Originally Posted by Zach West
Ha Motorsports.. Ill take a picture of it you can clearly see that its been fully reconditioned,,
I wasn't questioning your statement that it was "reconditioned"... just trying to understand where it actually came from so I could assess the quality of the "reconditioning" since you erroneously stated above that it came from Hondata. HAMotorsports is typically a quality source for reman ECU's, but this doesn't necessarily rule out a possible ECU problem either. I would suggest you try a "known good" ECU and see if the operational symptoms are the same.
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Old Feb 26, 2020 | 03:22 AM
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Default Re: B series

I didnt mean that to come off rude if it did I apologize I tried the main relay yesterday still nothing I will try to put a known good ecu in if thats not the prob. Do you think it could maybe be the ignition switch?
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Old Feb 26, 2020 | 07:04 AM
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Default Re: B series

Originally Posted by Zach West
Do you think it could maybe be the ignition switch?
No.

Did you test the two ECU/main relay fuses and check the G101 ground? A good main relay cannot work without power or ground.
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Old Feb 26, 2020 | 07:07 AM
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Default Re: B series

Yea all fuses are good an all my grounds are good clean and tight
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Old Feb 26, 2020 | 07:32 AM
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Default Re: B series

Originally Posted by Zach West
Yea all fuses are good an all my grounds are good clean and tight
Unplug the main relay. Turn key to ON(II). Use a wire to jump power from pin 1 or pin 5 to pin 7 in the main relay connector. Does the fuel pump run for both tests (1-7 and 5-7)?
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Old Feb 26, 2020 | 07:36 AM
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Default Re: B series

Ill do it when i get home an let ya know
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Old Feb 28, 2020 | 05:40 AM
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Default Re: B series

Ended up being a short somewhere im still in process of locating it but thanks for the input you gave me I appreciate it
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Old Mar 11, 2020 | 08:53 AM
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Default Re: B series

It ended up being my harness inside the tank on pump housing I used metal but connectors and heat shrinked around them guess the gas made the heat shrink swell an caused it to ground out on the pump housing I apreciate you guys input
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