b20b4 machine shop suggestions
I live in Houston you guys. Anyone know a reputable shop I can get my b20 hot tanked at? Also do I have to take it bare and do I need to deck it and resurface the head? I bought the engine with a blown head gasket and want to put a turbo on it with low boost (8-10psi)in the near future. I just want a fun daily driver. Nothing too serious. What other things should I consider getting done at the machine shop? I also have a b16 that I acquired but it is stuck on gear or something. At the very least I’m thinking to use the gears on an ls tranny...
I live in Houston you guys. Anyone know a reputable shop I can get my b20 hot tanked at? Also do I have to take it bare and do I need to deck it and resurface the head? I bought the engine with a blown head gasket and want to put a turbo on it with low boost (8-10psi)in the near future. I just want a fun daily driver. Nothing too serious. What other things should I consider getting done at the machine shop? I also have a b16 that I acquired but it is stuck on gear or something. At the very least I’m thinking to use the gears on an ls tranny...
I’d suggest going to your local Honda tuner shop
aak what machine shop they recommend
otherwise
google “auto machine shop in ____ town”
call ask if they do a lot of hondas
but theyre all same kinda. When assembling that’s when it matters if they do a lot of Honda’s
You take the head in bare
you ask them to check for flatness. If it’s off by I believe .002+ then you need to get it resurfaced ask to take as little as possible off
then new heasgasket
the block
you can bring the shortblock in
ask them again to check for flatness
If it’s okay leave it alone just move onto arp headstuds
oem tb Oem wp Oem rear main seal Oem oil pump Oem oil pan gasket
if the block is warped you need to get it decked
if this is the case you should def rebuild block since you gotta send block bare to deck anyway
this means keep it simple like u want. just get new rings
and arp head studs
and arp rod bolts (trust me on this)
and Oem everything’s I listed above
keep it bone stocks
just new rings (machine shop would have to check how out of round it is and if a hone will suffice or if you’ll need to go 84.5 or not machine shop will know this once they see it
ans get arp head studs
arp rod bolts (trust me on this)
voila done
sorry some things repetitive I kinda edited and on my iPhone lol
if the “b16” you have is stuck in gear
get it rebuilt
Put 5th gear L’s in it
i have personal experience with b16. Theyre really short. It’s geared towards all motor in my opinion honestly
idk how mismatch L’s and b16 gears feel I never had personal experience so can’t comment on that
i do suggest getting a gsr b18c1 transmission gears
they’re the perfect balance between all motor and turbo in my opinion hands down
I would recommend against turbocharging a B20. It's been done, but not a good idea in my opinion. You will need to disassemble the engine before taking it in for cleaning and/or machine work. Some shops will disassemble it for you, but be prepared to pay extra if the will do it (my local shop won't touch it unless it's already disassembled). I agree with KingDee...have the machine shop check the head and block for flatness and correct if needed. You will need to disassemble the transmission to find out why it is stuck in gear - it could be several things.
Thank you for the suggestions. I went to ASAA racing and asked them about a shop they’d recommend. They referred Westside Performance and Machine, talked to Jim and will be taking it in soon. Haven’t had time in between work and school but now that the semester is over I’ll strip it down.
I have been noticing from videos and articles that b20s are not that great but I already bought the dam thing without researching first. I just want to do low boost to add fun to my commute really.
I have been noticing from videos and articles that b20s are not that great but I already bought the dam thing without researching first. I just want to do low boost to add fun to my commute really.
Update: took the block in along with the main caps... they said I needed to bore so I bought 84.5mm nippon turbo pistons, all of the ycp pistons were high compression so these were the only decent ones for the price. I’m picking up the block on Monday. Bore and hone for $125. Deck $60 and clean $50.
now the next thing I have to tackle is choosing bearings. I am about to buy a set of micrometers but don’t really know what bearings to go with. Is it absolutely necessary for me to measure all that or should I just get oem bearings and skip all that?
now the next thing I have to tackle is choosing bearings. I am about to buy a set of micrometers but don’t really know what bearings to go with. Is it absolutely necessary for me to measure all that or should I just get oem bearings and skip all that?
Build is almost done you guys. I opened the transmission. The shift springs that go into the fork were jammed into the colt along with the *****. So It wasn’t making contact with the shift fork. Also the c clip was stuck in between the casing and bearing. Someone jammed the casing maybe when installing... I ended up trading it for an ls transmission.
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