Hey everyone, as the title states I have a 94 eg hatch that I recently bought with a B20B swap and GSR trans already done
I want to swap out the head and build or a buy a turbo kit. I'm looking to make about 400 whp so any advice or info you think I should know feel free to give your input. I will get some better pictures of the car and some other parts I have for the car. Also. The car was previous turbos by the previous owner but he took it off because he wanted to daily the car. It's a small 47 trim turbo. I am. We to building "racecars" so hopefully I provided the adequate information for starting a build thread. Welp here we go!

 

If your shooting for 400 hp I'd definitely bump up the Pistons, rods and bearings. Now cam and valve train unless you want to be able to spin up to a higher rpm stock should be fine just make sure your valve lash is set properly. I'd also bump up the fuel system, nothing crazy definitely a walbro pump will be a good for your setup, injectors too would also help and other then that I think you'd be good. I'm not a expert on B series but that's where I would start. Bottom end and fuel delivery. Oh and don't forget your gonna need some sort of engine management.

 

The car was previously turboed before and I believe there is a walbro 255 in the car right now. I would have to check for sure when the time comes. Also I'm assuming I would need to switch to a P28 ECU when I go to a vtec head? Maybe use Hondata S300 v3? The other question I have is what stage/specs should I be looking at for a clutch? The previous owner told me it had a stage 2 in it but I dont know if that's actually true. I plan on driving the car around town for a month or two to figure out what the car needs and to make sure it isnt going to fall apart. Also in this time I would like to try to plan most of the build out so when winter comes I have a plan. Thanks for all the help!

 

Just be aware that B20's are notorious for not handling boost well, due to the thinness of the wall between cylinders.

Clutch manufacturers rate clutches on their torque holding capacity. Look for other similar builds to what you are planning and see how much torque they are making. Buy the least aggressive clutch that will handle the torque you plan on making.

I agree that fuel delivery, engine management, and the bottom end will require the most attention. Spend money where it is needed, not on bling parts.

 

Yes from the research I have done some B20s seem to be weak and other seem to do just fine. The main reason why I am going B20 is that I already have the motor so why not. If it blows up I'll go LS/vtec. I'm not so much into bling parts. I would like to keep the cost down as much as I can and spend money where I should if that makes sense. It's a weekend warrior car not a daily driver.

 

B20 sleeves will work for 300-350whp max. Any higher and it is a matter of time before you crack a sleeve. This has been proven over and over again.

Might as well build yourself a B18 rod and piston setup that will handle your 400whp goal and not waste time with the B20.

 

Are b series manifolds all the same? If 300-350 whp is max on a B20 then maybe it wouldn't even be worth it to put a vtec head on it. Since it's in the car already I could just turbo the b20 the way it is and see how long its lasts lol. Also note that I have a P8R head on my B20B

 

I agree. If you are willing to shift your goals to be more in line with the B20, then turbo it as-is and see what you can get out of it. You could just as easily turn up the boost slightly to get the same output from the B20 as you could with a B20V and a little less boost.

When you are ready for more power build yourself a GSR.

Yes the B manifolds will bolt up to any B series head.

 

Well then that might be just what I do then. Just leave the B20 the way it is and start buying turbo stuff for it. In the meantime I will be looking for an LS block to start building

 

I would definitely recommend the s300 best tuning option out for Hondas. It'll be the most efficient. Mind you if you have a Mac you'll have to install windows in order to use the tuning software.

 

 

If I stay non vtec can I keep my stock p75 ECU and buy the Honda S300 V3?

 

Yes, if it's an OBD-1 ECU, you can. The downside is that if/when you get a VTEC head, you'll either have to change to a VTEC ECU and move the S300 over (after socketing), or add VTEC to the non-VTEC ECU. I recommend you have the ECU capacitors replaced as well, if you haven't already.

 

Just an update on the car so far, I need to get some pictures to post them and the cars starting point at least from my ownership. I just registered the car today and drove it for the first time and the coilovers on it currently are blown maybe along with some other suspension components. So I ordered some new coilovers and they should be in at the end of the week. I have been working 5 12 hour days plus weekends so I wont have a lot of time to work on the car this coming weekend. I've noticed the wiring harness has been completely butchered from whoever did the swap and the radiator fan is not working and it looks like the fan switch on the side of the thermostat housing is broken....more specifically the wires going into the connector for the fan switch are broken off and the wire for the engine temp for the gauge cluster is non existant. I'm new to all this but I do electrical work for a living but more engineering than being an actual electrician. Would it be "easier" plus more expensive for me to just buy a new harness for the car that would be plug and play?

 

Just an update, got the new coilovers and installed them which fixed the hellacious sounds the car was making while passing over bumps. I also ordered a 1320 performance t3 top mount turbo manifold and a Borg Warner S252SX-E turbo.