I'm looking for a small upgrade for peace of mind to my build. I currently have eagle rods arp2000 on my 680hp b18c

I'm looking for a bit stronger rod without having to go to a turbo tuff. My ultimate goal is 750 to 800hp.

So a cheaper rod if possible would be great.

Has anyone used the callies compstar rods?

 

If you wanna save a couple Benjamins and roll some dice, go for it! I saw lots of ads for them and found a couple part numbers; I assume they were for the H OR I-beam. I-beams are pricey and the turbo tuff rods are I-beam.

 

Good stuff ain't cheap... and cheap stuff ain't good.

 

Just comparing the size difference. You would think it could be stronger. They rate them for 800. I will just call the company before hand. Surprised nobody has pushed these rods yet.

 

Folks may have pushed, just not left any feedback. Especially if they're newer. I found this to be a big pain in the *** when I researched my own build.. Lots of info I couldn't find.. If you use them, make sure to document it thoroughly. When I looked online specifically at these rods, I found nothing but vendors and such. **shrug**

 

Not in ALL cases. Companies have to start somewhere, yeah? In the beginning, I'm sure Brian Crower had to struggle too. Lol! Companies get out there by low price and word of mouth. Can't bash something JUST because it's "cheap".

 

compstar is a highly used rod in the v8 world (ls series mainly). callies has been around for a long time now. they where some of the first people to make 46lb and lighter cranks for a 350 chevy there the go to company for Duramax builds again where the first to make a billet crank for a Duramax so you don't have to run a huge balance plate on the balancer so you can achieve balance with just normal balance practices. so sometimes you have to search just the company as they may only be new to making components for honda engines

 

yep.. callies is a premium brand across the v8 platforms

 

Actually, Brian was a pioneer in the Import Scene while working for the family business... the move to his own operation simply reduced delivery times. I don't think he missed a beat. As for bashing the Callie's product... I did no such thing. I don't know anything about it. What I did state holds true as a model for building a quality, reliable system. Ultimately, the system will be no better than the worst part in it. When you spend big money for proven, high-quality connecting rods and bolts... you GET a high-quality product. You may have spent a few dollars more than you had to... but a lower quality connecting rod will cost you WAY MORE in the long run when you have a failure because it will break surrounding parts with it.

 

The LS guys runs Callies Rods and Cranks all the time. The Rod looks stout, and definitely thicker than the Eagle

 

Agreed. I am familiar with Callie's cranks, and they do in fact have a history of high quality. My suspicion is that they do not manufacture this rod... but rather source it from an Asian manufacturer and put their brand name on it. The question here is not whether it is better than an Eagle rod... but is it AS GOOD as a Manley Turbo Tuff or Crower Billet ???

 

I’m guessing that there is 3-4 manufacturers that all just stamp they’re names on these rods, I’m guessing my Skunk2 rods are probably no different

 

I didn't figure you were bashing. I agree a lot with using what's proven as well. I also don't mind giving an unknown name a shot as well. As for Crower, I just pulled that off the top of my head. Lol! There are folks that started here; Bisimoto, HiProfile, Action clutch (dont remember the username but, I believe his name was Mike? I could be WAY off. Lol) They've all gone on to produce many good products having started grass roots style. I looked more Into callies and I saw they were huge for the big blockheads. I would give them a shot myself. Lol! I think there's a big plateau though on products. The "use what's proven" is perfect but, it seems to be a start of cookie cutter builds and everything is built using the same products and manufacturers. TONS of unknowns out there trying to start in the Honda scene but unable to really take off because a couple people have a bad experience and then news spreads like a wildfire while the masses with positive feedback remain silent. Honestly, I will soon Be working with a company with suspension products. I get the parts i need and provide feedback, review, and any tech advice for potential improvements. I'm excited to be part of the process and it started with me using a somewhat unknown or mistakenly mistrusted brand.
(I'll have more info on that as time progresses in the product review section).

 

honestly I highly doubt that a brand as good and trust worthy as callies would out source these rods " cause there for a honda" they have way to good of a reputation to keep for that. im sure its more of a ford 5.4 rods (302/2300) reengineered with are small end and big end sizes. regardless just based on the pics and the name If I was the OP id run these without a worry.

 

My biggest question is why are people so damn cheap? I mean Turbo Tuff rods are $800 bucks, have been used for years, plenty of people have made 1000whp including myself and are what $200 dollars more than Compstar rods that not many people have used in imports.

 

That's what I'm saying. If the price difference is nearly negligible, go with what's known. If there's a larger difference, then I'd say look deeper into it. If you're only saving 200, eh.. If you're saving 500, that's worth looking into.

 

Exactly, the cost of a rod blowing out the front or back of the block is going to cost a lot more than $200 bucks. The same with cheap turbos, people always think that if they break a cheap turbo it's "no problem I'll buy another". If anything breaks off, blades make contact with the housing and break apart that crap can make it's way through the intercooler and into the intake manifold and into your motor.

 

I don't think a lot of people consider the overall cost of their builds when they start buying parts. It's easy to cheap out when you look at it as a $200 difference, but if you consider it as a percentage of the overall build, that $200 is likely less than 2-3% of the cost of the build, not even taking into consideration the risk of losing the money invested and having to rebuy parts when the cheap part lets go, like you said.

 

Im honestly at end of life with this car and setup... Ive already sank way to much into this car that im going to part ways once something happens The whole reason im looking into the callies is because i dont want to spend 800 bucks for 1k hp rods when ill never make that... Also the price for callies was 400.00 so i can spend i tiny bit to give slightly more comfort..

https://www.cnc-motorsports.com/c221...b18-honda.html

 

Spending lots of money on a race car, welcome to racing. Buying Turbo Tuff rods isn't about making 1000whp it's about buying a rod designed to handle up to that power level meaning that is you make 800whp they will handle that power no problem.

If you're at the end of life with your car you might as well cut your losses and part with it now instead of waiting for something to happen first. Something will happen trust me, the more power you make the more **** that breaks that's the name of the game.

For example, making 800whp what do you think will happen to your drivetrain, obviously I don't know your build but if you run a stock trans be prepared for that to break. You'll most likely at some point crack your bell housing, axles, clutch depending on what you have.

Any how doesn't look like anyone really runs the rods you want to buy so I guess you can try them out and let everyone know how it goes. If your trying to build an 800whp car and $400 is a make or break sell now.

 

Did you ever install these rods? Im putting some in my build and need to notch the cylinders