Coolant and oil contamination solutions
1995 Civic EX.
First car. Had it for a little over 2 years now. I've put hundreds of bucks into it as well as much blood, sweat, and tears. I just sent in an oil sample to blackstone labs (they do oil tests to see how the engine is doing, it's pretty cool) and found out that the oil has some coolant in it, and the bearings and cylinders are wearing down way faster than before. I'll attach the sample results below.
I'm pretty sure this means that the head gasket is going, as well as the rest of the engine in general. From what I understand, there are 3 options: 1) replace the head gasket, 2) swap the engine for a healthy one, or 3) drive it till she dies and then get a new car. I really don't want to do (3) because I'm so attached to it. (1) seems like a temporary solution, as the rest of the engine is going. (2) seems like the most work, but the most fun, cause I could get a nice, big DOHC engine and enjoy the extra horses. Either (1) or (2) would require me to get some bodywork done because a PO got T-boned and the frame that the radiator and condenser sit on is bent in, making it impossible for the exhaust manifold to come off.
What are your guys's inputs? What would you do in this situation?
Thanks, friends.
First car. Had it for a little over 2 years now. I've put hundreds of bucks into it as well as much blood, sweat, and tears. I just sent in an oil sample to blackstone labs (they do oil tests to see how the engine is doing, it's pretty cool) and found out that the oil has some coolant in it, and the bearings and cylinders are wearing down way faster than before. I'll attach the sample results below.
I'm pretty sure this means that the head gasket is going, as well as the rest of the engine in general. From what I understand, there are 3 options: 1) replace the head gasket, 2) swap the engine for a healthy one, or 3) drive it till she dies and then get a new car. I really don't want to do (3) because I'm so attached to it. (1) seems like a temporary solution, as the rest of the engine is going. (2) seems like the most work, but the most fun, cause I could get a nice, big DOHC engine and enjoy the extra horses. Either (1) or (2) would require me to get some bodywork done because a PO got T-boned and the frame that the radiator and condenser sit on is bent in, making it impossible for the exhaust manifold to come off.
What are your guys's inputs? What would you do in this situation?
Thanks, friends.
I dont think I see this in your post, but how many miles are on this car/engine. That would dictate to me which route I would take. if the car has 150k or so I would throw a new head gasket on it, do some more maintenance while I was in there and run it for a while. If it has 250k I would swap it and call it a day. But keep in mind right now if you are mixing coolant into your oil and you are still driving it, it s going to get worse quite quickly.
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The body damage isn't bad, it's just the part of the fender that the radiator sits on. I don't know whether it would be an expensive fix, or even if I could possibly do it myself, but I guess my lack of knowledge is a big part of the problem.
I wouldnt open up the block unless I was suspecting an issue, but I would do an upper gasket kit, timing kit water pump, and anything else that is much easier to access with the head off. As said above that front apron can be quite expensive and quite dangerous if the car were to be hit again with previous damage. 150k is nothing for a d series as long as its not abused.
I wouldnt open up the block unless I was suspecting an issue, but I would do an upper gasket kit, timing kit water pump, and anything else that is much easier to access with the head off. As said above that front apron can be quite expensive and quite dangerous if the car were to be hit again with previous damage. 150k is nothing for a d series as long as its not abused.
Hard to tell. I had an engine which was exhibiting coolant contamination of the oil at around the 100,000 mile mark. I researched and discovered propylene glycol is not as toxic to engine bearings and immediately switched. I finally traded the old girl in with something like 212,000 miles on the clock and the engine was still ticking along as sound and reliable as ever.
Radiator support damage is cheap to fix, I think they sell replacement repop supports and quarter panels on rock auto
Oil analysis is great and all, but I dont see a point when these motors are a dime a dozen.
Coolant breaks down over time and can erode the gaskets. The coolant can also seperate from the glycol and you end up with rust. You can also have an issue with electrolysis and corrode the metal.
Perform a coolant flush and compression test
Oil analysis is great and all, but I dont see a point when these motors are a dime a dozen.
Coolant breaks down over time and can erode the gaskets. The coolant can also seperate from the glycol and you end up with rust. You can also have an issue with electrolysis and corrode the metal.
Perform a coolant flush and compression test
Radiator support damage is cheap to fix, I think they sell replacement repop supports and quarter panels on rock auto
Oil analysis is great and all, but I dont see a point when these motors are a dime a dozen.
Coolant breaks down over time and can erode the gaskets. The coolant can also seperate from the glycol and you end up with rust. You can also have an issue with electrolysis and corrode the metal.
Perform a coolant flush and compression test
Oil analysis is great and all, but I dont see a point when these motors are a dime a dozen.
Coolant breaks down over time and can erode the gaskets. The coolant can also seperate from the glycol and you end up with rust. You can also have an issue with electrolysis and corrode the metal.
Perform a coolant flush and compression test
Hard to tell. I had an engine which was exhibiting coolant contamination of the oil at around the 100,000 mile mark. I researched and discovered propylene glycol is not as toxic to engine bearings and immediately switched. I finally traded the old girl in with something like 212,000 miles on the clock and the engine was still ticking along as sound and reliable as ever.
That's awesome, definitely switching. Propylene glycol based coolant is blue? And when I do the coolant flush, should I use it instead of regular coolant? Is there a process for switching?
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