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Ok serious question. My crx will not go into boost without chopping up.
Things I have changed and checked:
Timing
TPS changed out
IACV changed out
Map changed out
Dizzy was changed out completely
All connections on tubing for no boost leak
I can’t even make 5 pounds of boost. I am at a loss here. I even gapped the plugs twice just in case they were getting spark blow out.
The only thing I see in s300 is the injector ms is going off the chart at about 17 when it chops up. Fuel duty is good spark is good.......
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I am about to give up on it.
The data log shows 100% throttle. Have you pulled a plug wire while the engine is running to see how good your spark is? Breaking up is usually 95% weak ignition system related. In rare cases I've seen bad injectors cause break up as well. What are your plugs gapped at and have you checked the cap and rotor for corrosion, moisture or oil?
Also your ignition timing looks super low, this can cause break up. On that low of boost even if it's a bit higher compression you should be around 18-22* more specs on the setup and I can help you a bit better.
Ok serious question. My crx will not go into boost without chopping up.
Things I have changed and checked:
Timing
TPS changed out
IACV changed out
Map changed out
Dizzy was changed out completely
All connections on tubing for no boost leak
I can’t even make 5 pounds of boost. I am at a loss here. I even gapped the plugs twice just in case they were getting spark blow out.
The only thing I see in s300 is the injector ms is going off the chart at about 17 when it chops up. Fuel duty is good spark is good.......
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I am about to give up on it.
You can email me your Hondata s300v3 map and I'll take a look at everything for you. Try to describe startup, AFR at idle, AFR at light loads, mid loads, WOT, and general driving experiences. Please also include a list of ALL mods done to the motor so I have an idea of what the ECU is reading vs. what you have installed.
The data log shows 100% throttle. Have you pulled a plug wire while the engine is running to see how good your spark is? Breaking up is usually 95% weak ignition system related. In rare cases I've seen bad injectors cause break up as well. What are your plugs gapped at and have you checked the cap and rotor for corrosion, moisture or oil?
new plug wires was installed on the car. We did pull plugs and I didn't see any signs of knock or lean condition. We also replaced the injectors on this car as well. The gap I will have to check notes.
You can email me your Hondata s300v3 map and I'll take a look at everything for you. Try to describe startup, AFR at idle, AFR at light loads, mid loads, WOT, and general driving experiences. Please also include a list of ALL mods done to the motor so I have an idea of what the ECU is reading vs. what you have installed.
Either your tune has been corrupted, or this is a base map and not a very good one at that. You need to go to a tuner.
I can make a better base map for you, but I need to know quite a bit about your setup. And you still shouldn't boost or go WOT without getting it tuned properly.
Engine and head code
Fuel injectors
Fuel type
Other fuel system modifiers (FPR setting, pump)
Ignition setup
MAP sensor
Turbo setup
Cams
You should also verify your mechanical and ignition timing before driving.
Edit: also it looks like the calibration is set up specifically to force you not to drive it hard. They have lean protection enable for anywhere above -16 inches of vacuum and 13.2 AFR. This is probably what is physically stopping you from getting anywhere, plus with the fuel and ignition maps being completely random.
Either your tune has been corrupted, or this is a base map and not a very good one at that. You need to go to a tuner.
I can make a better base map for you, but I need to know quite a bit about your setup. And you still shouldn't boost or go WOT without getting it tuned properly.
Engine and head code
Fuel injectors
Fuel type
Other fuel system modifiers (FPR setting, pump)
Ignition setup
MAP sensor
Turbo setup
Cams
You should also verify your mechanical and ignition timing before driving.
Edit: also it looks like the calibration is set up specifically to force you not to drive it hard. They have lean protection enable for anywhere above -16 inches of vacuum and 13.2 AFR. This is probably what is physically stopping you from getting anywhere, plus with the fuel and ignition maps being completely random.
ZC Engine Y8 Head
Injector FIC H-750
E85
Pressure is 40 pump Walbro 450
Ignition is stock
GM 3 bar
Ebay 50 trim
Cams stock
Tuning issue
