Hi I hav a 96 integra gsr with your basic alarm but I was thinking of running a simple toggle switch for a cut off switch to a ecu power wire. So I can turn the power off to the ecu while I'm park at a store or over night so it's harder to be stolen. I plane on hiding the switch where I can get to it but still be hidden. Has anyone ever did this and know a easy way to go about this or any Ideas. Thanks

 

First all, I would relocate the alarm module. I'm gonna bet it's right under the dash, near the fusebox. That's the "lazy" method done by the typical installer. You can run a hidden switch for the fuel pump/PGMFI relay instead...GROUND wire instead of the power.

 

So I should run a fuel pgfi switch and run it to the ground not the power. Do you know what wire that is. And your talk about the relay under the dash

 

it's one of the 2 black wires leading to the relay. Doesn't matter which one you use.

 

Not all installers who put it under the dash are lazy. For example, the system I just did immobilizes the car if the alarm is cut/unplugged.

 

it's not that much harder to hide the alarm module besides the obvious location. Yeah...lazy or incompetent, whichever you want to look at it.

 

Incompentent? Not really. There are reasons. But hey, I own my own successful business in the industry with the lowest comeback rate in the city, I'm incompetent. We are an official dealer for iDatalink, CompuStar & Fortin.

Sure, you can out the alarm in the trunk. But what is the point when it is tamper proof? You unplug the alarm, it's ign kill and underdash siren. Y'know, you could put your alarm absolutely anywhere in the car, and even with the tamper proofing I do, all you need is your own ignition harness. Plug it in, kill the steering lock & drive away.

The issue with relocating the alarm, is that 99% of alarms these days are also remote starts or do ignition kills. Let's run our high current ignition, accessory and starter wires 20ft thru a car also having to extend them as NO ALARM MANUFACTURER provides a harness long enough to do this. Because, y'know, the manufacturers don't listen to installers (hint: they do, in fact, if your idea is good enough, all you have to do is post it on the FB group and it'll get done.)

If it's solely an alarm, sure. Hide it wherever. But if you're doing kills, your relays are still (should still) be near the ignition. You don't want excessive voltage drop on those circuits, you end up with things like your fans running slower, lights dimmer, etc. Hiding the alarm doesn't prevent someone from easily bypassing any mods to the ignition harness and cutting the siren (which I don't care where you hide it, it's easy to find, they are ******* loud. And the more deep you put it the quieter it is.)

But hey, we all have our opinions, and I'm not about to give away all my tricks.

But I will be posting the alarm build I am currently doing for a client on a 99SiR, in the shop right now.

 

Where is your shop located if you dont mind me asking?

 

I'd actually recommend using the wires going to the ignition switch. They are more accessible, mainly, and longer to work with. Just had to fix a kill on the relay on the 99SiR I'm doing and it was a bitch to solder the like 2 inches of wire.

But, y'know .. that's where us lazy/incompetent installers would go. I mean, the diagram below is from one of the largest most reputable manufacturers of alarms and starters and that's where it recommends..but hey..

Take your pick:

96 Integra

 

We are in Calgary, AB, Canada ! I'd post our site but I'm not sure the rules here are OK with that.

We do offer a lot of Honda friendly services though.

This last week I've been doing a big alarm/remote start on a 99SiR with a million features* (also basically the identical system featureset that is in my car and several other clients) as well as swapped in a S2000 cluster for him for which we were able to flash the eeprom to enabe the mph/kph switch and set it to km/h default while also matching the km's to the car.

He also had an s2000 push start button on hand and said it would be $80 USD for a simple pigtail and relay so I made my own harness, modified the button to have RGB LEDs because the stock light is useless and built a module to run the push start button like a new car (also using rfid authentication, so no key, just fob), instead of just putting in the key or flicking an ignition switch and pressing the button to engage the starter (and having to hold it until it starts) it will turn on acc on first press, ign on 2nd press, crank the starter exactly as long as needed on 3rd press (you don't have to hold it, it detects the engine start) if the clutch is pressed or turns off if not pressed.

*
- alarm/remote start combo (CompuStar 7000AS MAXIT)
- 2way lcd remotes
- ezgo proximity unlocking which also authorizes the push start button module
- smartphone control with gps tracking (compustar drone)
- das2 sensor with motion/impact/shock/tilt/towing/glass break detection
- backup battery for alarm and smartphone system
- multiple sirens including under dash (no one ******* around under the dash with 120db siren in your ear)
- window module for auto window roll up on arm (can be disabled so you can park with windows down), can also vent and roll down windows from remote/smartphone, also gives 1 touch up and down on both passenger and driver switches
- 2 zone proximity alarm, beeps if someone gets too close to car, full alarm if they cross the vehicoes threshold (so you can park with windows down and they will roll up if someone gets too close or sticks their arm in the car
- starter kill with antigrind, tamper proof, car will not start if alarm or backup battery is disconnected, triggers sirens when trying to start when armed even without alarm
- ignition kill with anti-jacking (ign can be disabled from remote or smartphone or pc)
- keypad on windshield for pin# unlock & people can page you from your car
-arms alarm when you lock driver door with key (can't disarm in most older Honda's, at least not easily as there's only a lock trigger in the key cylinder on the door)

 

I ask because I’m looking into trying a compustar unit in the near future, I’ve mainly installed DEI alarms so I want to get as much first hand info about the Compustar units.

I’ll send u a pm so we dont hijack this thread 👍🏼

 

For sure. Feel like that already sorta happened but eh. Happy to answer any questions !

I can say we used to carry viper and now we only carry compustar/idatalink..much better hw

 

Is there a good alarm system that comes with a fuel cut off switch or anything and how much do the cost. I have a pretty nice 96 integra gsr and the last thing is want it stolen

 

Most alarms won't have a switch with them, it's such a simple thing that there is no reason to include a specific switch.

Most alarms DO come with an engine kill relay, however.

I would highly recommend the CompuStar CM-7000AS alarm, IMHO the best option on the market for this vehicle.

I should probably mention that I can't say this is completely unbiased as I am the owner of a business that is a CompuStar/iDatalink dealer, however, we used Viper for 2 years before switching to CompuStar. There is a reason we switched and we would never switch back.

PM me if you'd like help getting your hands on one.