Hey guys I'm kinda new here and new to the whole, well, savvy part of the community. Ive got a 95 Civic coupe, got this car on trade, and it's my daily driver. I was in a bit of a desperate situation when I traded, as my old cars tranny was going out, so I didn't really look everything over as I should have, and didn't realize the car was manual swapped. Aside from a few differences from the manual models interior, the car seems to run fine, although it lurches (sometimes quite violently) when pressing the gas pedal after it has been completely released. To be more specific, when I'm already in gear, and I let off the gas completely, the car will lurch forward, and when I reapply the gas, the car will lurch back. It usually doesn't happen between gears, but I think that's because the clutch is absorbing the lurch. I have already cleaned the IAC valve, the throttle body, and the air and fuel filters have been replaced. At this point I'm starting to wonder if it's possible I'm running the auto ecu, and if so maybe it's causing the lurching due to some differences between the transmission types. Any information or help with this would be greatly appreciated, and sorry for the long text 😓

 

The first thing when you buy an already swapped car is don't. Well if you end up with one you need to survey it and identify exactly what parts you have, and if they have a chance to work with each other.

Does it idle OK? When you unplug the IACV, the idle speed should drop to much less than normal, but not stall out. This also will turn the CEL on with a code 14. Make sure that your CEL works and there are no codes.

 

Inspect the motor mounts, paying close attention to the rear mount. Is the rubber insert toast? Does the T-bracket have all four bolts in it?

 

Sounds like a TPS related issue. Do you have a multi-meter to check voltage at the TPS ??? If you had an automatic ECU, your MIL would be illuminated and you would have automatic based codes (thirty series codes... 30 to 38). Also, you can disable the automatic function of an OBD-1 ECU relatively easily so it will function properly in a manual application... even if it was originally an automatic ECU.

 

The car already seems to idle a bit low, but smooth around 800rpm. I haven't tried unplugging the IACV but will do so first thing tomorrow. Alot of the mounts we're shot when I got the car and I've replaced most of them, haven't seen the one you're talking about though and will check that as well. As for the TPS sensor I don't have a voltmeter to check it on hand, but have test drove it with it unplugged to no avail. I'll keep posted on wether or not y'all's ideas work and thanks for the suggestions!

 

Also, I'm not sure if this applies to your case specifically, but when lurching happens, check that the throttle body isn't sticking. Sometimes in order to mask an idle issue, people will adjust the throttle body stop down too far which can cause the throttle plate to stick in the bore.

 

I've cleaned out the throttle body, which was very dirty, as well as found that the throttle cable was getting cought on the lever if the throttle was fully depressed. I've adjusted it so that it doesn't happen anymore, and I though for sure it would help the situation, but I'm having the exact same issue. Do you think my timing may be off? I have a little exhaust pop sometimes but I think it's due to not having a cat, and my valves tick rather loud as well.

 

Sounds like the rear mount is trash and probably missing the front lower torque mounts.

 

 

Looks like the right side torque mount is absolutely smashed on the inside. Didn't notice it at first I guess because the outer part of the mount is fine. The lurching seems a bit violent to just be the mount, though. Anyways I went and got the mount, but when I went to take the old one off, the bolt spins freely inside the chassis of the car, so I have no idea how to get the mount off. In addition, Its missing one of the bolts completely. Anyone know what the bolt size is? I'd like to go ahead and order what I need, and hopefully I'll have gotten the mount off by the time it arrives

 

Did you check the rear mount?

​Bolt, Flange (10X30)
90166-SR3-000
$1.27​​​​​​

 

No not yet, haven't had a chance to get under the car with work right now. Where should I look for it? I'm guessing it'll be somewhere to the rear, but haven't seen it at a glance. Thanks for that bolt info

 

Thats odd.

 

Look at your ECU's letters and numbers and compare them to this forum thread where you might not have to wonder anymore... How do u tell and auto ecu from a manual ecu (P28)

 

^^ this here.. also, if you need assistance in converting your auto ecu to manual, you need not buy anything special. Just need a few small tools and some patience. I've done like, 40 of these and all of them perfectly working. I can walk ya through the process.

 

Photo Below Figure 29 - Credit from Online Autozone Repair Manual 1992-95 Engines-See Figures 20 through 30 linked below
https://www.autozone.com/repairguide...00c15280061705