B18c5 timing help
so I have just about got my engine back together, long story short I spun a rod bearing 2 years ago when it was na, been building it for turbo. So after a small fortune was spent doing everything right I’m just trying to button up everything that I can to get read to drop it back in my em1. But I ran into a problem, when I set the crank to tdc, and line the cams up, put the belt on, set the tensioner then rotate counter clockwise I’m off, if I line the crank I am half a tooth off on both cam gears, if I line the cams up the crank is off by 5*. I have sk2 adjustable cam gears both set to 0 and an ati super street damper. Just did a valve job and the head was decked but only .10 don’t know if any was ever taken off of the head before me, do know it was rebuilt a few years back, any advice or input is much appriciated
Also when I line everything up and put the t belt on and begin the turn the crank it does turn a little before the belt tension is enough to pull the cam gears
If the head and/or block have been milled, and you do not know the EXACT amount removed, you cannot accurately choose the proper head gasket thickness to install to keep the cams and crank in proper phase. In your case, being off 3-4 degrees at the crank when the cams are lined up suggests that your head gasket choice is too thin. If you degree the cams before you set the engine into the car, all will be fine. There is not a combination that fixes what you have pictured by placing the timing belt on while moving the crank or cams a tooth +/-... you did it right the first time and didn't trust yourself.
Yeah I think I went with a .30 cometic Head gasket because that’s what my pistons called for, at that time I didn’t expect to even have all the head work done, found a broken valve guide so just went ahead and gave it the works, it had a .30 on it before the rebuild, I didn’t think .10 deck would have changed it much but guess ya learn something new everyday
Degree now while the engine is on the engine stand. You cannot accurately read a degree wheel on the engine when it is in the car. Many confuse the idea of moving the cams and trying different combinations of gear settings as "degreeing" the cams... this is just trial and error. If you have a TON of time to try every combination of I/E gear settings... then you can, in theory, find the same power. Setting the cam gears on the engine stand to the cam card that came with your camshafts gets it perfect from the jump. Then, on dyno you just make power.
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I had difficulty getting the cams and crank times on my engine when I put it together. When I build another I'll definitely buy a degree kit and figure out how to degree my cams.
I think I’m just gonna pay my tuner to do it, I know how but don’t have the tools atm, and it’s like every straight forward thing that I think I’m upgrading on this car turns into 18 other things, so much money and loosing interest seeing how I work about 60hrs a week and have a 6 month old baby girl, just want this car back together and to enjoy it, been down and out about 2 years now
That's totally understandable. Sometimes, especially from a time standpoint, it's worth it to pay someone to do it. I don't have any honda tuners close by so I'll buy the stuff and learn to degree the cams myself. My stuff tends to go from simple to bad too, lol, so I can relate to your frustration, especially with a little one.
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ebelp
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May 6, 2003 11:49 AM









