I've got a ton of different tools, but was hoping you guys could recommend some specific tools for this job. I can hook up air to the cylinder to hold the valves up unless you guys really recommend the rope method instead.

Specific Tool Recommendations for the following. I'd rather make the installation easier and not wrestle around with a pair of pliers or similar to get the job done.

Spring Compressor
Remove the keeper (never had to deal with keepers, except small engines)
Remove valve stem seals without risking damage/scratching to the valve
Installation of the new valve stem seal (socket??).

I think that about covers it. I've got all the tools except anything that may be specific to the actual valves/springs/seals.

I did some searching around and maybe I wasn't searching the right thing, but didn't find any specific recommendations.

 

I haven't been into my 99 valve springs, etc.. yet, but these are the tools I used on my wifes 00 corolla springs, keepers and seals



I just tapped the seals back on with a socket.

Mind you I did this with the head off the engine, so I wasn't worried about force applied vs dropping a valve.

 

Thanks!

Do I need to the spring compressor for the D-Series:
Or will this simply work?:


This tool makes me a bit nervous as it doesn't have any coating on the end that I can see or read in the description and I would HATE for it to slip off the seal and mar up the valve stem, effectively resulting in replacing the valve stem.

 

spring compressor is a must, unless doing the ghetto rope trick. there are youtube videos of it being done.

 

Thanks. I think I need to find a video of how the retainers are removed on these engines. I'm not sure that the tool listed above (i'll list again below) is the right one for these engines

 

I ended up getting the spring compressor, air hose fitting even though I do have a leakdown tester that would probably work, and the seal removal pliers.

I think the other tool that you use with a hammer would only be able to really be used is if the valves were propped shut by either rope or if you had the head off.

 

Quick question while I am planning this out in my head while I wait for parts. Do I need to remove the cam pulley prior to removing the rocker assembly? I just wasn't sure if the timing belt tension would cause the cam to want to come out of place once the rocker assembly is removed.

 

bump. Surely someone here has done this procedure.

 

you remove the belt by loosening the tensioner.

 

I was wondering if the cam pulley (or cam) needs to be removed in order to replace the valve stem seals?

 

I've done the valve stem seal replacement based on this video last week (on a D15Z8 engine): Contrary to the video I made a spring compressor for spring removal, but the assembly is easier with cable ties. You don't need any rope or air intake into the cylinder, the valves won't fall down, if the pistons are in the top dead centre (1.-4. and 2.-3. cylinders at the same time).
I suppose also you've got some oil consumption issue like me, but after a week my experience is, that only seal replacement is not the solution, for perfect job you should replace also the valve guides, they could be worn out.

 

Thank you very much for that. That showed me that the cam pulley doesn't need removed and the cam will take in place just fine. Doesn't seem like too bad of a job, just a bit time consuming.

 

This procedure was circa 5-6 hours, incl. valve clearance adjustment, etc..

 

That is the easiest method/tool to remove and install the keepers. The small one of the two tool set is used on these Honda engines.

I was doing the air compressor trick and was on the last cylinder when I screwed up and dropped a valve into the block. At that point I had to yank the head to finish the valve seal job.

None the less, I ended up using the tool you posted that I have quoted, all other valve spring compressors I tried just wasn't effective or easy to use on Honda heads. The only other one that works well is meant for head off of car and is a giant c clamp type. Won't work with the head on the car.

I would also recommend getting valve seal pliers. I made my own with spark plug pliers, yanking the plastic coating off the ends then gluing two mashed 80 grit dremel sand paper rolls into the jaws. It worked but I would much rather of had the proper valve seal pliers that are meant to grab those little buggers. They do not come off easy and take quite a jerk of up force to pop off. Burning them off does help but is very smelly.

 

I modified an old postcommunist car's spring compressor, 'cause the civic's valve retainers are smaller, and furthermore I cutted the pushing rod to avoid its stuck wherever in the engine compartment. I screwed a M8 bolt into the threaded holes of rocker arm, and hung the compressor's hook on the head of the bolt and I could push down the spring. You can see in the pictures that it is a cheap diy tool, but it works (I hurried...).

 

Thanks for the info! I actually just finished up replacing all the valve seals last night. I used the jaw style tool that compresses it and the actual seal puller tool. I pumped air in the cylinders. I'd guess about 80psi or so after it made it all the way through all my hoses and hose reels. I was using a small compressor and it had plenty of volume to keep the air coming. It actually rarely kicked on as the cylinders were surprisingly holding air very well for 300k miles.

At first I thought the spring compression tool was a bunch of bulls***, but after a couple valves I learned the tricks of it and got it down pretty well. Not the easiest thing in the world to use, but certainly made taking the springs off and putting them back on a breeze once you got a couple under the belt.

With the correct valve seal pliers, it was very easy to the get seals off. 10mm socket to put the new ones one, carefully paying attention to the intake and exhaust seal differences.

For me, the valves were held in VERY well with the air. I applied some pressure downward on one to see if it would fall/break the seal. It did not, it was held up with quite some force.


Input for anyone else doing this. Don't waste your time with the rope method, simply hook up compressed air, use the spring compressor to remove and install the springs, get the seal pliers, plug the oil passage holes, used a telescoping magnet to easily remove the retainers when they are free so you don't lose them, and get OE seals.

I would say 5-6 hours is extremely accurate. I have probably 3 hours in to it yesterday, but still have to put the rocker assembly on and adjust the valves. I need an o-ring before I can finish the job, hence it being unfinished.

 

Another tip for future users, put the piston to Top Dead Center on each one you do and lock the crank pulley into place.
This will prevent the valve from falling in, if for some reason the seal doesn't hold or you run out of air etc. You can easily grab the valve stem and pull it back up, but only if the piston is all the way up on the cylinder you are working on.

I didn't do this and that's why I ended up having to pull my head when I was almost done with the job.

The compressor is going to push the piston to bottom dead center and is why you must lock the crank pulley into place once TDC is found.

 

Super helpful post, thanks TomCat. Dropping a valve is my biggest concern when I have to do it on my D16Z6 that's still in the car.