I have narrowed it down to 3 questions, because I watched the TB changed on a non-vtec 2000 Integra LS. The mechanic lined the horizontal marks, on the cam sprockets. Then he held a metal school ruler on top of the marks and though they had appeared in line, they were slightly off, so he made an adjustment.

Now I have a type r with 12,000 miles and 9 years on its TB.

Question 1: When the sprocket marks are horizontal with each other, does it mean that the #1 piston is at the top of its stroke?

Question 2: When the sprocket marks are horizontal with each other, does it mean that the crank pulley's marks will always line up?

Question 3: Before the old belt is removed and before the crank pulley is removed, if a cam sprocket lock tool tool link is put in place (on a vtec type r) when removing the belt, how easy is it to accidentally move the crank off of its mark?

Thanks

 

Question 1 - Yes, but it could be TDC on the intake or compression stroke.

Question 2 - Usually, but not necessarily (it is possible the belt could have slipped a tooth or two and not have been noticed).

Question 3 - Easy enough, but with the belt off, the cams and crank can be lined up if you don't move anything too far out. There's no need to lock anything really.

Don't sweat it too much. Get a good manual and read the procedure over and over til you have nailed it. It only takes doing it a few times to master it and it's easy.
And even easier if the engine is out in front of you. The wings and angle of the engine can sometimes make it difficult to line up by eye when installed in the car.


B18

 

Line up the crank pulley first. The two cam sprockets should line up correctly. Loosen belt tensioner. You will need to remove the alternator belt and other accessory belts along with the crank pulley first in order to get to the TB

 

Please just get a HELMS manual and do it properly. The questions you're asking are all pretty fundamental. Go through the timing belt section in the helms and figure out how the whole system works. For question 1: yes, when the horizontal marks line up, that's cylinder 1 TDC. 2: No, THAT'S the point of the timing belt. they're two separate shafts/pulleys and can be wherever they want but if the timing belt is installed correctly then cam marks will line up with crank cyl #1 TDC. 3 Not really sure what you mean by this. When installing the timing belt, you're going to be rotating while the crank is free from the cams...cus there won't be a timing belt on there. It doesn't get locked into place for tb installation or anything.

 

Oh, and just realized that you probably don't know this but when you take off the crank pulley, the crank sprocket still has a TDC mark with the oil pump. You'll find that in the Helms manual anyway.

 

When I changed my TB for the first time, I referenced 1-2 YouTube videos and the Acura factory service manual. If you don't own a copy you can probably find a PDF version somewhere online. It's pretty helpful. BTW you'll also need to remove an engine mount. And if it's been a while since the TB was changed the engine mount bolt and nut may be stuck. Mine were and it took several days for me to figure out how to properly loosen them.

As an aside, I had a very big problem getting all the parts to not move at all when installing the new belt. Tried 3 times and I still couldn't get it just right. So I would definitely recommend a tool to lock the cam gears in place.

 

will pm you a link to manual, cant do it here. 8(
grab as many made in japan parts as possible
like bando timing belt or mitsuboshi. npw water
pump or aisin if you can find one. koyo tensioner
is a good choice. forget about gates, they are doing made
in china b.s. now. can dish the dirt on them if you
want more info. the all made in japan aisin or tbk kits
are the way to go.

 

Not to go off topic, but there's nothing wrong with "made in China". Honda actually has some of their oem parts manufactured in China. The last oem part I picked up from the dealer had made in china on the red Honda label.

 

This is what I think will happen, after I lock the cam sprockets with the cam gear lock tool:

When the old belt is off and the crank pulley is also off, the crank will not move, unless I put enough pressure on it to cause a valve to bend. However, I will be able to move the crank 1/2 tooth clockwise (to get the new belt to seat itself, if necessary). Then I'll move the crank counterclockwise (about 1/2 tooth) until the crank & oil pump marks realign.
The sprockets will never move and the new timing belt will (slightly) stretch, when I go back ccw on the crankshaft.

 

The timing belt isn't stretching or anything, It's just loose when you first put it on because it's not tensioned yet. when you first put it on, the crank tdc mark won't be exactly at the mark because the timing belt isn't tight yet. Once you put it on and tension it, then it'll pull the crank sprocket right into place to line up at the tdc mark.

 

ok would love to hear about quality made in china parts bargains lol.
gates, moog, and interstate are a few off the top of my head that have gone to the dogs. my last gates water pump puked after about 5 years/50k.
totally not acceptable. 8( there's a reason that chinesium is a thing
and reliability aint it. just handling my new npw pump was arousing!

 

grab one it's very helpful:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Cam-...cAAOSwm3Ba9DBk

 

Best tool I ever got!

Check my build thread when I changed my Timing belt for a better idea,

https://honda-tech.com/forums/appear...556604/page18/

 

Most comprehensive video available for free: www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq_4jrXfJwQ&t=1030s
Written guide: Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement on a G3 Teg - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

Setting tension properly: https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-m.../#post51633605

I also suggest familiarizing yourself with the factory parts diagram:
https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...p-bracket.html
https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...sor-denso.html
https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...ine-mount.html
https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...elt-cover.html

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-.../#post44838269

You'll want to consider getting a 1/2" impact wrench rated at 1000 ft lbs to remove crankshaft bolt. A 600 ft lbs wrench with a Lisle "high mass" 19mm socket may do it. You can remove it by hand (Fulcrum setup), but the amount of equipment to do it safely, you'd only be saving $100-$200, and have additional equipment that you'll only use once (from my perspective/situation). With the "Fulcrum setup" , be careful not to bust knuckle on the pavement.
If you suspect your car of severe oil leakage (1 to 1.5 qt every 2k miles), I'd get ready to replace the crankshaft oil (pump) seal; and that requires it's own elaborate procedure to remove and install. Camshaft (pulley) seal may be leaking, but I'd be more concerned about the crankshaft oil seal.
#17 in the diagram: https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...ner.html?PNC=2

Google, and especially Google Images, are a great assistance, given the right vocabulary.

 

These videos are also good and I brushed up on these vids before my last belt and water pump change on my Type R.


Part 1-
Part 2-
Part 3-

 

ok i confess my cam lock tool was made in china.
possibly yonaka half shaft too.
just avoiding chinesium when possible seems wise.

 

the crankshaft tool is a free rental at many parts stores or just buy for 20 clams.
i just do the big screwdriver in the brake rotor method, works a charm but not with autotragic transmissions. 5 foot pipe on a 1/2 in ratchet works wonders too. 8)