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Rear driver window won’t roll up.. tried everything! Please help!
Hello! I have a 96 Honda Civic LX 4 door and my passenger rear driver side window is not rolling up. Replaced switch, window motor and master switch and Still no luck. The master switch does not work rolling up or down for the rear driver side but it works for everything else. I thought this was the problem so I bought a new master switch and same results. However the rear driver side switch only works when rolling down, not up. So I decided to try to hard wire/bypass the switch to roll the window back up (jumped using two wires in the rear driver side switch harness) and it rolled up! But this is a new switch and I tested it on the other side and works both rolling up and down. Now I’m really clueless as to what is the problem... I was thinking maybe a wiring problem? Ground? It was working perfectly fine before I jacked up the car to do an oil change! Please help!! Fuse is good also.
If you search. You would find that it is common for the harness between the door and chassis, driver door, wires coming undone from years of opening and closed. Those wires get broken. What you need to do is inspect those wires. Replace with good, unbroken harness from junkyard.
cut and solder.
The motor can be tested by jumping a battery to it, reversing the polarity will make it roll up and down. This is also useful to get the window to the closed position and leave it there.
As the others said, all the window circuits go through the wires from the driver's door to the rest of the car, and those wires will eventually break where they flex as the door is opened and closed. The damage is not always apparent on visual inspection. The outer plastic may look OK even though the copper inside is broken.
A junkyard replacement would have a lot of open/close cycles on it already and may be short-lived. You might still be able to buy a new door harness from the dealer.
^^^
very common issue, especially with Northern cars. My old Civic EG sedan had the same issue on the driver front door.
Originally Posted by civic402lx
I inspect the junkyard harness thoroughly b4 buying. Cut extra length to have room to give when open/closed. But, you can buy new from dealer also.
Originally Posted by mk378
The motor can be tested by jumping a battery to it, reversing the polarity will make it roll up and down. This is also useful to get the window to the closed position and leave it there.
As the others said, all the window circuits go through the wires from the driver's door to the rest of the car, and those wires will eventually break where they flex as the door is opened and closed. The damage is not always apparent on visual inspection. The outer plastic may look OK even though the copper inside is broken.
A junkyard replacement would have a lot of open/close cycles on it already and may be short-lived. You might still be able to buy a new door harness from the dealer.
Thank you all for your help! I will go at this tomorrow. Really appreciate the replies. Thank you again!!!
Same issue with my girlfriend's 96 LX. Both front door harnesses had multiple broken wires. Only the driver's window worked. I opted to solder all of the wires directly and cut the connectors out so it wouldn't constantly flex at the connector. Junkyard wires were also just as brittle so I didn't wanna chance that. It really helps to have a friend help you with solder and heatshrink to basically assembly-line them. Be very careful with the wires because they use the same colors in different sizes multiple times. I had to cut a few wires and try again after I noticed that.
It is definitely possible to snake the wires back through with this method. I wrapped both sides in electrical tape, then in wire loom, then wrapped in tape again. Then I ran the covered harness through the grommet so it would not wear on the opening or let water in. It's been a year and a half with no issues since. She almost **** a brick when I picked her up from the airport with the windows down lol.