I have an issue with the car going super rich when I try to accelerate it boggs down and wants to stall I’m new to using smanager I currently have a p28 ecu with s300 installed I am running an 02 and a wideband I’m not sure if that’s needed I wired in my 02 with the 4 wires provided by my rywire jumper harness provided I wired them correctly I’m pretty sure I don’t have the sensors setup correctly in smanager how do I set both sensors up correctly ?? Could this be the reason why it doesn’t want to accelerate quickly the car will drive but I have to be super gentle with the throttle any help would be appreciated thanks in advance

 

What basemap are you using and are your engine and injectors stock? What about your MAP sensor? There should be a basemap pre-loaded in Smanager for your needs to get started.

Worry about wiring your wideband into the S300 later. Try running open loop or closed loop on the standard narrow band O2 sensor first just to get going.

 

I am running the stock D16Z6 map and I changed the parameters for the 1000cc injectors I have also put in the dead times I changed my map sensor to the 4 bar I’m using already wired my wideband into ecu power and ground through a25&26 and signal from d14 not sure how to set it up in smanager forgot to add I am turbo with lots of aftermarket parts I have aem fuel rail with adjustable aem fpr set at 45 psi with vacuum line off but I want to run the stock 4 wire sensor that I also have hooked up I want to see if things changed today I took it out to see how rich it was running and under load it dropped to 8:1 and then stalled right after what can that be from ?

 

Well that changes a lot, thanks for giving a little more info...

You are on a basemap and the car runs, time to go get tuned!

If it is not driveable to make it to your tuner, there are some things to consider like, is the engine fully warmed up when this happens? If so, make sure you're in open loop, and just tweak the fuel maps in part throttle to get it to a driveable AFR. Then go get tuned

 

How do I know if I’m in open loop? How do I adjust the fuel maps to get it driveable without car bogging down under acceleration? Also how do I setup the 02 sensor in smanager

 

Go to closed loop settings under parameters. Then in the drop down, select closed loop disabled (open loop). This will be the best way to run for now, negating any effects from the O2 sensor feedback until you figure out how to get it hooked up properly.

To get it running, check your vacuum gauge (or MAP sensor reading while plugged into Smanager and datalogging) and see at what vacuum level it gets too rich. Then in your low fuel table, find the columns that correlate with that amount of vacuum (will be measured either in mbar or inches, you can change this in Smanager settings). Highlight the entire column where it starts to get rich, and all columns to the right of that. Click the minus sign "-" button at the top to reduce the values. 1 click equals 1 percent decrease. I would start with about 5% at a time until your AFR's get within a more normal range, then you can fine tune from there.

I might add that this is all only relevant after you've already verified your mechanical timing and ignition timing with a timing light.

 

ok awesome so when i try to perform the igniton timing i cant get the 3 marks on the crank to line up with my sights from the timing cover i have jumped out the service connector next to my washer bottle and it doesnt seem to do anything i was told that my check engine light should be on solid to let me know its in manual time mode but i am not getting that keep in mind the car is a 89 crx si and i am converted to obd1 using p28 ecu so my real question is can i jump out the ecu directly to perfrom my iginition timing

 

Make sure your mechanical timing is right first.

Then hook up timing light to #1 cylinder wire and take a look before jumping the service connector to see if you can find it, it should be close. The only proper way to adjust it then is the jump the service connector, that I know of.

 

Someone told me that jumping the service connector only works on the stock ecu but I am running p28 with s300 but I am going to check my engine time one more time even tho I have don’t it like 4 times question is there a way to be 180 off or as long as the refrence points line up I’m good to go?? Also one more question if you don’t mind so when I installed my aem wideband I wired my power and ground into a1 and a2 by accident didn’t know that you read the connector from the wire side ideally was shooting for a25 and a26 lol do you think I fried injector 1 and 4 ???

 

Distributor can be 180 off, but I don't believe it would run at all if that were the case, or if your injectors were damaged. Help us understand the severity, you made it sound like the car runs and drives fine until you get heavy on the throttle.

 

yes car does run and in fact runs pretty good just under load it doesn’t like it too much I’m assuming it’s just a tuning issue I know I don’t have any vacuum leaks checked with carb cleaner idle did not change it could my injectors be an issue under load ? Or would I notice a skip/misfire if they were faulty ?? And my dizzy is ok replaced it with a known good one and still have the issue I scheduled an appointment with the tuner so I will keep you posted how I turn out thanks for hanging in there with me and answering my questions to the best of your knowledge

 

updates? Sounded like Mechanical timing issue

 

Soo after a tune and trying new injectors i decided to run my fuel pressure gauge directly to my windshield so i could watch my fuel pressure when the car acted up so when i took the car on the same road test from all the previous other attempts i got the car to act up and watched my fuel pressure drop to below 20 psi under load i then was curious to why it did that but never had before the swap so on the road test when it acted up i just cycled the ignition off then back on while cruising pressure went back to normal about 50psi where i had it set and shortly after did the same dropped below 20 psi under load so when i limped back home i immediately replaced the fuel filter and boy was that great news the filter was clogged with brown rusty fuel so i replaced it and went directly to my fuel tank which was the source of all my problems THE DAMM FUEL TANK WAS RUSTY INSIDE and my pump pickup screen was getting clogged so that was the problem the whole time