1999 Honda Civic EX 1.6L: Several years ago I had to replace the timing belt so I also replaced the crankshaft pulley bolt with the new type. It came with a sheet indicating the proper torque spec for this new bolt. It was different then my old repair manual spec. Well I can't find the sheet. Does anyone have that spec? I'm doing a head gasket replace. Thanks in advance.

 

I think you just need to tighten it up as best you can, and then running the engine will take care of the rest because the engine spins counter-clockwise and will tighten the bolt while the engine runs - and far beyond how tight you can get it with your hands.

 

No do not do that. I have seen several people in CIvic forums report their pulley came off from not properly tightening the bolt. And you really don't want that to happen, because it can mangle the end of the crankshaft so the pulley never fits properly again.

This is the first time I have heard of two kinds of bolts though.

 

I thought the 96-00 Pulley bolt did something like 90 ft-lbs and then a quarter turn?

I suspect regardless of the bolt, if you follow the helms manual it will be fine.

It's that quarter turn that is the clincher.

 

The point is, though, that the crank pulley is going to tighten once the engine is run, so they don't have to worry about over-tightening it. They can just tighten it as best they can. Just do tighten it as best as possible, and don't leave it loose.

 

The problem with that statement both times is the ambiguous nature of it.

Best as possible for some people will be 50 ft-lbs and the engine doesn't tighten it, instead the vibrations loosen it enough the key way shreds out and we have the famous, can it be welded thread.

Others might get 80 ft-lbs which may or may not be enough. Then others will have a 10 foot breaker bar and snap the bolt.

That's like "as soon as possible". That phrase translates differently for each person who reads it. Is that 3 minutes? 24 hours? A week? A month? A year? What is YOUR soon as possible? Bet it's not the same as mine.

That's why someone said it was bad advise of which I will second.

Bare minimum, follow the FSM since the "addendum" page was lost. Which I think is as I stated of 90 ft-lbs then a quarter turn. There is no ambiguity in those instructions.

 

I wanted to close the loop on this post. I have attached the instructions for the new style bolt.

 

Wow, that's really involved. And I have one of these newer 10-labelled crank bolts right here, though I wasn't even aware it has a different set up process. My bolt (90017-PR3-003) is for an B16a2 engine, though, so the torque specs might be different than in your image. The original bolt for the B16a2 is just specced to 130 ft-lbs.

I wonder why they're changed it.

Thanks for posting that image.

 

Awesome! Thank you for finding and posting the new procedure! I am sure it will help a great many people!

+rep to you if we had rep.