Hi, My ls/vtec turbo, start to breaking on high boost suddenly. The weird thing is only on rolls, from the hole it make the full pass. When i try to make a pull from 3rd as soon it reach high boost it fall on his face, sometimes kick in again others i need to stop. The car is a relic from 2010, but it works fine for daily drive.

I'm guessing MAP sensor problems as the wideband goes blank when this happen. My laptop is out of commission but anyways (dataloging) on this software isn't effective.

Ls Vtec Piston & Rod 9.0:1
Crome Pro
650cc injectors
Omni 3 bar
No CEL on idle or in the moment of the issue

 

replace the cap and rotor, replace the plug wires with NGK wires, and put new NGK plugs in gapped to around 0.025". actual recommended gap size and heat range for the plugs largely depends on your power level

 

Cap and rotor are new OEM, Cables have a few months (NGK blue) when the car start with the bug. My plugs always are at 0.024" BKr7e-11. The only thing i can recall is the coil been auto parts no brand.

 

That's more than likely the case. Coil needs to be replaced. Try an Accel Unit. Under $50.

I love how you young people call 2010 a "relic". B-series honda turbos essentially haven't changed since about 2001. Just the software use, Injector size and type, and other fuels. The rest hasn't changed.
Talking to someone with 600whp+ capable and usable since 2003.

 

great, see one on ebay Accel super coil HEI for $59.96

I'm not that young 42, but never had a engine with 400+ lasting this long, mostly i owned Rotary's.

 

Neither am I. (almost your age...)
I've had a few Rotories last a long time, w/ Power FC at over 500whp. But we never pushed the limits like you guys in PR.
You don't even have to go eBay. (which I never fully trusted) They're even less a Summit Racing or Holley with full return warranty.

https://www.holley.com/products/igni...ls/parts/11076

 

You can get those Accel coils at O'reillys

 

you need a MSD ingnition unit, it takes power directly from battery and gives it to the distributor.

they like 320$ for the control unit, rotor and cap . Mine didnt boost past 16psi until i got one and when it did it farted or missed spark or whatever its called.

 

hmm

 

lol, you should probably learn a bit more about ignition systems. not only is that information wrong, it's also somewhat bad advice

 

Shodan, Bought the accel coil. While wait for shipping, i decide to clean and check the dist. OEM TD-87U. When open it, saw the CYP and remember i swapped it with a generic one from a china dist. Still on specs 404ohms (350-700 specs). Now that i'm working on this issue is recommendable to install a OEM one?

 

OEM always seems to be best, but I admit, I've never had to change the CYP before.

 

also while you're waiting, clean and tighten all grounds. and double check the main engine ground, make sure it's not starting to break apart anywhere.
disconnect the battery negative, do a resistance test between the battery terminal on the cable and anywhere on the chassis, and another resistance test between chassis and engine. if it seems high, test resistance of the cable itself between all 3 terminals on it (battery/chassis/engine)

 

Ok, To prevent further headache i'm going to install a OEM one.