**** PROBLEM SOLVED ****
The shop I bought the chipped p28 ECU from, forgot to chip the F****** ECU.... They didn't help me. So I went to Rich Tuned in Auburn Wa to have them take a look, and as soon as they opened it up, he laughed and said I know what's wrong😂.... Props to Rich Tuned for soothing my headache! Lol


* I have searched dozens of times, here and in other forums *

My car is a 1992 civic vx
problems:
A) high idle, about 1500 constant hot or cold
I tried adjusting dizzy timing, TB screw, checked throttle cable. Checked for unplugged vacuum lines.

B) seems to be running hot, but the gauge says normal. Tried burping by removing the radiator cap, then running till fan kicks on. It ran for about 10 min or so and then overflowed. Checked for a stuck thermostat. Lower hose feels cool, upper hose is hot. Hoses going to/from heater core are hot.


- 1996 gsr swap obd2 (bought whole car and took what I needed, car ran great when I bought it 140,000 miles)
- changed head gasket, timing belt, clutch kit
- chipped p28 ecu
- has exhaust leak...
Thanks for any advice

 

Update:

Blead the coolant the best could, I think... I lifted the front end up a bit and let it puke out a couple times. Then put the rad cap back on. Let it run for about 20 minutes. The fan kicks on every 30 seconds or so, but at 1500 rpm idle, I imagine that is normal.

Double cheked vacuum lines.

I might brave a trip to autozone tomorrow to read a CEL, since it must not actually be getting too hot.

 

CEL will probably show a cyinder 2 or 3 missfire. You really should invest in one of those bluetooth code readers, so you dont have to deal with autozone anymore.

 

Will do! Didn't realise how cheap they are, ill update when I read the CEL, thanks.

 

I bought one of the cheap $5 chinese ones and couldnt get it to read my 2000 integra but it will read my coworkers 1997 dodge dakota. I wound up buying one of the nicer $50 or $60 ones and it works flawlessly on every car I have tried.

 

So, autozone couldn't read it(only obd2 +). I tried the paperclip method in the plug under the passenger kick panel, used a silver clip a boby pin, and coper wire. None worked. So I'm not sure how I will read the codes.

As far as drivability, drove maybe 3 miles. I have very little power. Only went to 3k rpms, but it was much slower than the d15z1 that was in it... Lol

btw, hondafest is in 5 days ����

Any ideas to throw at it blindly? You said misfire in 2 or 3, what could cause that?

EDIT: just checked coolant temp sensors, they were plugged in correctly. I also reved a couple times, just a quick stab, I think it may be backfiring through the intake...?

I keep finding conflicting information... I read that I could use my factory obd1 VX shock tower harness with the factory obd2 GSR engine harness. I would have a pair of plugs(1 from each harness) that are not compatible, and don't matter. No rewiring, no changing any of the pinouts. Just use a chipped p28 ecu. Is this correct? Or am I supposed to be using the p72 and repinning the knock and iab sensors? I am starting to think the ecu is bad/chipped wrong and my ignition timing is off.

Here is my timing:

 

Here is a video, if its any help. It has an exhaust leak, and intake sounds like a jet, lol. Maybe that is related?

 

The "miss fire cylinder 2 and or 3", is just the code I get very now and then when I have a hard start. But I am also thinking that you have a sensor that is either not plugged in or plugged into the wrong thing. You need to work on finding something that can read obd1.
Just confirming, your p28 ecu is properly chipped for a gsr engine correct?

 

My brother is borrowing an obd1 diagnostic from his work for me today, so ill update later on the CEL. I purchased the p28 from a local guy who ran a shop, advertising on offer up with accreditation. I told him I had a 92 vx and that I was swapping a 96 gsr into my car. He recommended the p28, and that backed up what I had read will work.

 

Unless you got that ECU tuned after you bought it, the P28 is not the correct ECU for a 1996 GSR swap. That's a D16/B16/Civic ECU. You need a P72, or you need to add IAB control (for secondary intake runners if you are using them, looks like you are) and P72 fuel/timing maps to your P28. Civic injector duty cycle with Integra 240c injectors would cause a load of problems with engine operation, idle included.

 

It is a chipped p28. Not sure if that means it is tuned? I spoke with the guy I bought it from and he new what I intended to do with it.

Maybe I should try the p72 that's in the gsr? I still have the whole car I got the swap from.

Also, the obd reader didn't have the correct adapter plug. I will try to figure out the codes again today...

 

Too hilarious!!!!

double check your wiring and vacuum hoses.

 

Quadruple check

Also, forgot to mention the engine stalls when I unplug the iacv. I read that when adjusting the idle, this is one of the steps to do so, and should only lower the idle speed.

 

No, that does not mean it is tuned. Did he say what basemap was burned into the chip?
Yes, that's the correct ECU with IAB control.

 

He did not. Ill ask him, what would be the correct basemap? If I put the p72 in, I would have to re-pin the iab and knock sensors, right?

 

The correct basemap is the p72.
If you are using the GSR wiring harness, it should already be wired for your P72 ECU. If you are not, then you are going to have to do some custom wiring.

 

I'm using the p72 obd2 everything, from the harness to sensors, up until my vx obd1 shock tower harness. Ill try the p72 ecu, and ill clean the iacv, check vacuum again, and check that all plugs are in the right place.

this is one if the things I've been referencing, and then the two plugs on my harness that are not compatible.

 

Checked EVERYTHING again. Found nothing.

Until I pulled my dipstick and wiped it on this clean paper.

 

Pulled the valve cover...



aaand, I have coolant in my oil. A lot of it, huh?

I guess I did the head gasket wrong. Or maybe coolant is coming through the intake manifold somehow? Either way, ill be pulling it all off again tonight.

Any tips for making sure all the coolant is removed from the oil system? I was thinking change the oil after 20 miles, and again after 100?