just put sir-2 b16a into 2000 civic si. Ok here are my two problems.

1. High Idle. Idles at around 1500, but with every shift, it will drop down to just less than 1000 before i put it in gear, but keeps going back up to 1500, and while idling, rpm's fluctuate between 1200 and 1500. what could cause this?

2. Runs hot. Have to keep heater on to keep temp. gauge down. and to keep the radiator fan blowing. if i turn off the heat, the car overheats. also, while idling, temperature gauge will always rise up to almost 3/4ths. what could this problem be? thanks

 

anybody?

 

are you throwing any codes?, check to see if you have the map and tps sensor plugs switched, if your idle is bad it could be you iacv. For the over heating part, bleed your cooling system. top off you radiator and keep cracking open your bleeder until its a straight stream of coolant. also take your rad cap off and squeeze your upper rad hose until no bubbles come out. That is the most common problem with over heating right after a swap

 

there was a code at first, but then we switched over to my old throttle body and cleared the codes with a snap on tool. so now there are no codes. it runs strong. and we already did what you said with the radiator hose.

 

oh yeah what is iacv?

 

check for vacumme leaks and flush the radiator fluid and make sure there is no air in it if it still does it its more then likly yuour radiator

 

iacv is the Idle Air Control Valve. it is on the back of the intake manifold, has a plug from the harness and a small hose that coolant runs through from the head to the throttle body to the iacv to the pipe on the back of the block.
try takin it off and cleanin it out...

 

Maybe the idle is just high.
Adjust the idle screw.

Edit: Oh, sorry...I didn't catch the part where you said "it fluctuates when it idles."
Yeah..IACV. I had the same problem. You said you reset you cleared your CEL codes? hm..
Take it out and clean it (IACV), or run the car with a known-working IACV.


Modified by haku-jitodai at 7:30 PM 11/17/2003

 

no, it fluctuates

 

I just finish a Mini-Me swap, I have the same exact problem but my heating problem just went away. When the engine is code it idles a little high, about 1600. Then when it warms up it starts moving, from 800 to 1300, up and down. The fiorst time my idle was doing that i had a vacuum leak in one of the hoses. I fixed it but now its there again, so im thinking i have a leak, i just gotta find out where. Check ALL your vacuum hoses and see if you find anything.

 

i replaced the throttle body gasket and that took car of my idling problem. still runs hot though. and when i get on it and run through 1st and 2nd gear, the temperature will drop down to almost normal, but then after idling again or light-throttle driving, the temp. will rise again

 

bleed your cooling system again

 

Not trying to sound like a smart ***, but have you made sure your cooling fans are spinning at their normal speed. I had the same issue when I first got my Integra, after I did much looking (and overlooking) I found the fans had been wired around the wiring harness and were not spinning fast enough to cool the radiator. Same thing you have, speed up the car cools down, stop at a light and it starts to heat up.

 

It sounds like you have an air bubble in the cooling system bleed the system and you should be good to go.

 

spray your iacv with brake cleaner the little spring in side gets stuck, it happens when they sit for a while. i have the same problem with the iacv's i buy out of junk yards

 

I had a sticking thermostat in my GSR a few years ago and it would let the temp climb higher than normal before dropping. Running it hard made it drop fast like yours. Get a new HONDA thermostat. The autoparts one they tried to sell me looked nothing like the Honda one so I went and got the correct one. Temp holds steady in hot or cold weather now.

 

Here is a checklist for the running hot problem:

-Check to make sure you don't have any air in the cooling system
-Make sure the thermostat is opening (after a while the lower hose will heat up, this indicates the thermostat is opening)
-Make sure your fan is turning on (could be a bad ECT (electronic coolant temp) switch)