i recently bought a 1995 accord f22b1 vtec with an automatic transmission. the previous owner said the trans was slipping in 3rd and 4th gear. Could this be the fluid? the trans fluid smells burnt and is dark. should i replace the fluid and put stop slip in it?

 

That what I would do. Drain the fluid. Drive a little. Do it again. Drive a little, do it again.

If it works you saved yourself a lot of money.

They do not recommend using Honda ATF for this Accord generation but I replaced the Dexron with Honda ATF on my son's 95 Accord and the tranny stopped jerking.

Good luck,
Sam

 

i changed the fluid earlier. it seems to go into the gears better. i havent driven it again yet but i went through all the gears in the driveway and it seemed to be better. the only gear it jerked going into was reverse. the car has 300,000 miles and i dont think the fluid has ever been changed before i bought it, the fluid was pitch black.

 

ppl are stupid don't they know ATF needs to be changed every 20-30k miles nope they think it only needs an oil change every 3k miles

 

yeah. the magnetic drain plug had a thick layer of sludge on it. i cleaned that off. do you think changing the fluid will help the slipping? before i changed the fluid when it was driven if you drove normal it did fine but if you gave it a lot of gas real quick it would just slip and go out of gear and rev high.

 

just change the fluid a few more times and if it dont change just deal with it till u get another trans to swap it with. not much u can do with rotten milk or u can learn how to rebuild your transmission

 

Who would "they" be?

 

If the fluid is dark and smells burnt then the clutch pack is done for.

 

I changed the fluid twice and i drove it finally, it seems to only slip in high gear when you stomp the throttle quickly. I bought some stop slip for the transmission. Does anyone know if the lucas stop slip works?

 

i put the lucas stop slip in the transmission, i drove it twice it seemed to help very little so far. Will it take a while for it to start helping? It seemed to allow the throttle to go down a little farther on the way back the second time i drove it. the engine does seem to have a miss. could that be related to the trans problems in any way? the o2 sensor is plugged by a bolt on the header by the previous owner

 

I'm having similar issues with my 97 wagon 240k on the odometer. It was bumping hard into every gear and shuddering up hill like the TC was coming apart. Changed the fluid and still the same, lots of metal and gray sludge on the magnet. After replacing the engine with a JDM and a fresh fluid change it gets hot and quits pulling. Let it cool and it will pull but fails the stall test. I haven't done a pressure check yet but I suspect the internal screen is stopped up and starving the pump. I've done a trans flush ran 15 qts through it. Adjusted TV cable and shift cable. Looks like I'll be overhauling it or buy a JDM. Ain't got time for this crap. Checking into parts and what fails on them now. Mine is a BOYA. Looks totally different inside than the Fords I build.

 

mine is just slipping trying to find 3rd and 4th gear. If you dont push the gas pedal down a lot fast it will go fine. and it seemed like once it found 4th gear it did fine on the way back after putting the lucas stop slip in. 1st and 2nd gear does perfectly fine. could it be the shift solenoids?

 

If your car has the Vtec motor, the bolt you are seeing on the manifold is for a support bracket. The O2 sensor is further downstream in a short section of pipe right in front of the cat.

 

will the stop slip start working better the more i drive it? does anyone have any experience with the lucas stop slip?

 

Do yourself a favor and pull the shift solenoid screens and see if they are dirty. Clean them off by hitting them with some brake cleaner and then put them back. See if that helps.

You also want to make sure the fluid is the same bright red color that you originally filled it with. If not, do another drain and fill and drive around and check the fluid color again. If still not that same red, repeat until you do. It should take about two more. The idea is to move around the new fluid to help dilute the old fluid that doesn't come out in the drain and fill. There's usually around 6 quart capacity but only 2 quarts or so come out with a drain and fill.

 

where are the shift solenoids located? it seems to only slip when in d3 and d4 when you stomp the gas down to about half way. could the shift solenoids cause this?

 

best thing to do is to look on youtube and watch people clean them

 

The silvery gray crap on the plug is from the torque converter along with some bearing pieces. Mine neutrals out in 2nd, if I make it to 3rd it locks into 3rd. I'm going to run pressure tests on the ports to narrow it down but mine definitely has to be disassembled. The strainer inside can also clog from the trash floating around. I'm just gonna buy a JDM and open this shitbox later.

 

Test pressure on the ports, they have a port for each clutch. Will narrow it down to an internal leak or just a solenoid not fully closing/opening.