Big_Eddy

I researched the topic and everything pointed to the EGR fix - so I spent an hour on the weekend and cleaned out each of the ports. No better.

My Accord - only when warm - will hesitate badly when trying to accelerate hard under about 2200 rpm. Ease off the gas and it will stop hesitating and slowly accelerate, downshift till over 2500 rom and it pulls beautifully.

Since doing the EGR ports- it is the same or worse - not better.

Pulled the plugs - they all look fine - nice tan colour.

Need to know where to look next. Probably the distributor but appreciate any guidance.

Car has 220K KM on it, and passed the smog test easily about 1 month ago. It started doing this about the same time and has been getting worse over time.

Thanks.
Big_Eddy


Modified by Big_Eddy at 9:07 AM 9/24/2008

dtapia

http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf
that info is in the faq section.

Big_Eddy

Dtapia - thanks for the response - but that was not the issue. As I stated - I researched first, found the EGR port issue, and completed the TSB as posted below. The car is the same or worse since - not better. Must be something else. Looking for the next place to investigate.

I did not take pictures of my work - but the ports - both upper and lower holes - are now clean.

dtapia

look at the icm wires i have seen some that when the icm was replaced the terminals were not tight and would cause a problem like you described.
does it feel like a secondary miss or non ignition ?

noobking

My problem was a bouncy idle, but it also did it when the car heated up. Maybe your problem is somewhat related to the one I had. Have you researched anything about the FITV valve? Ill do a quick search on the forums for you. My car had a similar problem and right after I tightened down something with the FITV the car ran perfectly, after some adjustments I got it to idle like a clock at 800 RPM when it warms up.


Searched IACV on the forums and eventually got this picture:





Notice that the top and bottom of the white disc have notches? I was told to put a flathead screwdriver in one and tighten the sucker all the way down. It worked like a charm.


Here is the link to the thread I stole the picture from, maybe there is info that is more useful there: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1844067
^^The link will tell you what I am talking about with the screwdriver etc. It will also tell you where the IACV/FITV is located.

starchland

check your o2 sensor...does the problem go away if you WOT? also disable your o2 sensor and see if it still does it running off of the ecu. also check your ignitor and coil to see if they are in resistence spec and all connections are tight. however just because they test ok cold...they could act up when they are warm (ignitor,coil)

Big_Eddy

More details on the symptoms.
Car is cold - everything is perfect.
Once car is warm - when trying to accelerate from under 2000 rpm - anything other than a very gentle application of gas will cause SERIOUS hesitation and stumbling. Seems to me like the cylinder is flooding and no ignition. More pedal = more problem.
Shift down until revs are over 2250 +/- - pulls beautifully.
Ease off the gas and VERY gently accelerate - works okay - just don't give it too much.

There is NO problem with idle, no problem with driveability over 2500 rpm, no problem driving at constant speed under 2000rpm - but it has no roll-on acceleration ability if the revs are down.

Checked the distributor cap and rotor last night - no play in the bearing, rotor and cap look fine. My buddy and I have lots of spare parts - so we're going to start swapping stuff out piece by piece till we solve it.

starchland

might be cause when its cold its not running off o2 sensor until open loop

marioe414

i also have the same problem with my 1992 accord ex, but my car does it even when the engine is cold. i read up on some other fourms and i heard that a thermostate could be the problem. the onley things i have tryed so far are spark plugs, wires, distributor and cap. i also looked for vaccum leaks i found nothing. i am also stuck i dont know what to look for or how to fix.

jonwrong

Again, I have the same problem!

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2403506

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2397628

I have replaced the O2, replaced the plugs, replaced the fuel filter, run a can of sea-foam through, and ran the car without the cat. Nothing works!

jonwrong

I am working on something; i"ll let you guys know what I figure out.

marioe414

i fixxed my car by just unplugging both the wires and tube from the egr. the only thing now the check engine light comes on.

notAdiesel

my brother's 91 does the same thing.. it's weird

starchland

just wondering why you didnt diy if your trying to save $$$?

Canyon Wagon

Try the main relay. Most of the time it is the source of why the car does what you are all having trouble with.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=53888

gqstatus05

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Darryl13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

but his only other suggestion was a $600 part (a mechanism in the distributer that COULD be failing now).
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wait, are you talking about the CAP & ROTOR? Those parts are not $600. For a whole tune - up you could have went to an autoparts store and bought everything for less than $200 and did it yourself. That includes the Cap & Rotor.

Care to explain?

Canyon Wagon

Since you live in a rather cooler climate and it is getting towards winter, you may not have too much problems for awhile. But when it gets slightly warmer or you run the car for awhile, the main relay seems to get cracks in the points....alot less $ to replace than the Midas job you got. see the link I gave you. And if you must got to a "shop", go to a Honda place. Also the site CB7tuner.com is a good place to ask questions for the coupe.

steven_b_03

when mine was doing that it turned out my #4 cylinder was loose, and the head gasket around the cylinders were bad...so it was leaking oil on top of the plugs (corroding my plug wires) and straight into the cylinders...replaced the gaskets, new plugs/wires, and tightened everything down and burned the leaked oil out and it ran fine...but the oil shorted out and ruined my alternator and such...which turned out to be a HUGE major problem (apparently a car can't run without it...almost like it recharges the battery or something...) lol

now I'm just having a problem with my t-stat and clutch...which is just general wear and tear...if someone knows a site to get a good fairly cheap one send me a message...

and isn't a cap and rotor like, $25? a distributor is along the lines of $300-$400, I think...

NGUSPEED

Exact same issue here

Only thing is, my hesitation/stumbling/shaking, whatever you want to call it, is only REALLY noticable in 2nd gear, starting at 2,250 RPM -&gt; 3,500 RPM, under moderate to heavy acceleration, when the car has warmed up.

I don't know if anyone has given any thought to the gas we put in the car. I usually fill at Safeway Gas Station, down the street from my home. Im wondering if their gas would be different from Shell, Synoco, BP, or Exxon gas? Second to that, would putting 93 instead of 87 make a difference? I thought about that last night when I was filling up and has anyone tried changing the Fuel Filter &/or Fuel Pump? That is just something that I havent seen posted as a resolution to our issue.

So far, I've cleaned the EGR Ports, TB, & IACV. I did find that oil was leaking into my spark plugs and submerging them. I picked up a Valve Cover Gasket Kit yesterday, and will install it when I get some time & try some Seafoam.

notAdiesel

my brother got new spark plug wires and cap and rotor now his runs fine

P_Adams

It sounds like a fuel enrichment problem. (leans out when you put your foot in it, and it runs better w/o the egr connected.)
I'm trying to get a handle on this, but it's tough w/out a scanner.
Does this do this in all gear ranges, at the same rpm ranges?

It does it only during closed loop operation, so it's most likely EFI /Emissions related.
MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) MIGHT do it. As the pressure drops from the throttle opening, the ecm would enrichen the misture. If the MAP sensor were either disconnected or showed a "fixed" value..... this would be considered "load sensitive" (regardless of gear range selected.)

P

NGUSPEED

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P_Adams &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It sounds like a fuel enrichment problem. (leans out when you put your foot in it, and it runs better w/o the egr connected.)
I'm trying to get a handle on this, but it's tough w/out a scanner.
Does this do this in all gear ranges, at the same rpm ranges?

It does it only during closed loop operation, so it's most likely EFI /Emissions related.
MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) MIGHT do it. As the pressure drops from the throttle opening, the ecm would enrichen the misture. If the MAP sensor were either disconnected or showed a "fixed" value..... this would be considered "load sensitive" (regardless of gear range selected.)

P</TD></TR></TABLE>

That was a little confusing

99silverspur

I have a 99 Honda accord 4cyl VTEC and I also have the same problem but mine dies when I let off the gas and the check engine light says MAP sensor I have replaced the sensor years back and it has bad rings and goes through 2 quarts every 2 weeks so normally it stops the shaking and stalling on its own but lately it wound go away anything under 2500 rps it does when I engage the clutch and it goes through glass like my v8 bronco Idk what to do with it anymore any ideas?

91lxcoupe

i am having the same problem with my 91 accord lx it runs fine when its cold but hesitates when warm and rpms are under 2500 this is my first honda and i dont know much about them can anyone help me out. also i replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter last weekend also when i changed the spark plugs 2 and 4 had oil leaking or something.

thefew

I am having the same issue with my 1991 Accord LX Aero Deck. Has anyone actually fixed this issue?