96 civic 1500 rpm bounce
I have looked at every thread pertaining to my problem and nothing is working any help would be awesome
96 civic ex d16y7 in it y8 mani chipped p28 with custom basemap
when i lightly aply gas it it gets stuck at 1500 and acts like 2 step almost anything above or below that rpm is fine
ive replaced plugs, wires, dizzy
tested tps and tried a known good map sensor new fuel filters
have iacv disabled and o2 disabled on Ecu and am getting no codes when I take it for a drive
any ideas? I'm stumped
96 civic ex d16y7 in it y8 mani chipped p28 with custom basemap
when i lightly aply gas it it gets stuck at 1500 and acts like 2 step almost anything above or below that rpm is fine
ive replaced plugs, wires, dizzy
tested tps and tried a known good map sensor new fuel filters
have iacv disabled and o2 disabled on Ecu and am getting no codes when I take it for a drive
any ideas? I'm stumped
It's possible the throttle blade is sticking and not seating fully in the closed position. Remove and clean the throttle body throroughly...especially the throttle blade. Use a throttle body cleaner + brass brush or toothbrush and clean as much carbon (dry,black) and grime off as possible. Spray TB cleaner inside the holes the throttle blade pivots on and open and close TB blade manually to work cleaner inside them.
Clean the IAVC as well with TB cleaner, plus replace the gasket (inludes screen).,,that gasket hardens and flattens over time and can allow air in (vacuum leak). If, the gasket looks okay then just clean the screen with TB cleaner.
Make sure the throttle cable is adjusted properly. Also, hard bends (mounting points) in the cable can cause it to stick...read this: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-feel-3010466/
If these suggestions don't solve it..as mentioned by others,, search for vacuum leaks (no MAF sensor on your engine):
Clean the IAVC as well with TB cleaner, plus replace the gasket (inludes screen).,,that gasket hardens and flattens over time and can allow air in (vacuum leak). If, the gasket looks okay then just clean the screen with TB cleaner.
Make sure the throttle cable is adjusted properly. Also, hard bends (mounting points) in the cable can cause it to stick...read this: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-feel-3010466/
If these suggestions don't solve it..as mentioned by others,, search for vacuum leaks (no MAF sensor on your engine):
It's possible the throttle blade is sticking and not seating fully in the closed position. Remove and clean the throttle body throroughly...especially the throttle blade. Use a throttle body cleaner + brass brush or toothbrush and clean as much carbon (dry,black) and grime off as possible. Spray TB cleaner inside the holes the throttle blade pivots on and open and close TB blade manually to work cleaner inside them.
Clean the IAVC as well with TB cleaner, plus replace the gasket (inludes screen).,,that gasket hardens and flattens over time and can allow air in (vacuum leak). If, the gasket looks okay then just clean the screen with TB cleaner.
Make sure the throttle cable is adjusted properly. Also, hard bends (mounting points) in the cable can cause it to stick...read this: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-feel-3010466/
If these suggestions don't solve it..as mentioned by others,, search for vacuum leaks (no MAF sensor on your engine):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTzDY95aqXg
Clean the IAVC as well with TB cleaner, plus replace the gasket (inludes screen).,,that gasket hardens and flattens over time and can allow air in (vacuum leak). If, the gasket looks okay then just clean the screen with TB cleaner.
Make sure the throttle cable is adjusted properly. Also, hard bends (mounting points) in the cable can cause it to stick...read this: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-feel-3010466/
If these suggestions don't solve it..as mentioned by others,, search for vacuum leaks (no MAF sensor on your engine):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTzDY95aqXg
i have done done this all ready as well and have used a spare throttle body with same problem also am not running a iacv and it has been disabled on the Ecu
Have you set the timing? I think with chipped ECU you still jump the test jumper and set to the mark on the pulley, but check chip documentation to be sure.
If you're not using an IACV, setting the idle speed is simply a matter of limiting the air into the engine, such as with the idle bypass screw valve. If idles too fast, something is letting more air into the engine than you want.
There's a reason Honda used an IACV. It's going to be hard to get a steady idle without one.
If you're not using an IACV, setting the idle speed is simply a matter of limiting the air into the engine, such as with the idle bypass screw valve. If idles too fast, something is letting more air into the engine than you want.
There's a reason Honda used an IACV. It's going to be hard to get a steady idle without one.
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Have you set the timing? I think with chipped ECU you still jump the test jumper and set to the mark on the pulley, but check chip documentation to be sure.
If you're not using an IACV, setting the idle speed is simply a matter of limiting the air into the engine, such as with the idle bypass screw valve. If idles too fast, something is letting more air into the engine than you want.
There's a reason Honda used an IACV. It's going to be hard to get a steady idle without one.
If you're not using an IACV, setting the idle speed is simply a matter of limiting the air into the engine, such as with the idle bypass screw valve. If idles too fast, something is letting more air into the engine than you want.
There's a reason Honda used an IACV. It's going to be hard to get a steady idle without one.
yes timing has been set to 12 degrees like it's supposed to be.
and I know getting a good idle without the iacv is a challenge but once car is warmed up it idles perfect at 800rpm
Anybody got any other ideas!
Still at a loss car runs perfect other than this weird bounce
i disconnected all the vaccum lines from intake and capped ports it to eliminate any possible vaccum leak symptoms from evap solenoid, brake booster, pcv and so on and it's still happening
Still at a loss car runs perfect other than this weird bounce
i disconnected all the vaccum lines from intake and capped ports it to eliminate any possible vaccum leak symptoms from evap solenoid, brake booster, pcv and so on and it's still happening
and it's not and idle problem it's an acceleration problem witch is why I'm stumped
car idles fine crusices fine above 1500 rpm and pulls good just gets stuck at 1500 and bounces when giving consistent throttle
any ideas anyone?
if I unplug the tps the problem stops but that just puts it in limp mode and I can't rev past 2000rpm at all so I don't know if the tps is the problem or if by unplugging it I'm just masking the issue I've tried two tps and the same thing with both
if I unplug the tps the problem stops but that just puts it in limp mode and I can't rev past 2000rpm at all so I don't know if the tps is the problem or if by unplugging it I'm just masking the issue I've tried two tps and the same thing with both
How did you test the TPS? Did you voltage test the TPS? I had this EXACT same problem. the issue for me was the throttle body. I ended up going to the junkyard and getting a used one for like 30 bucks. fixed the issue. I also check the PCV Valve ( might be clogged ), test the ECT sensor ( known to cause erratic idle once warm ), making sure the EGR valve is clean ( if you do clean it replace the gasket! ), and if you properly tested everything that you said you have, maybe try replacing the ECU with a used one. The fluctuation is a symptom, not the problem. The reason it is fluctuating is because if the engine is idling too high, the ECU cuts the injector PW.
Here is a good thread about the idle issue and ECU.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-read-3263995/
Here is a good thread about the idle issue and ECU.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-read-3263995/
How did you test the TPS? Did you voltage test the TPS? I had this EXACT same problem. the issue for me was the throttle body. I ended up going to the junkyard and getting a used one for like 30 bucks. fixed the issue. I also check the PCV Valve ( might be clogged ), test the ECT sensor ( known to cause erratic idle once warm ), making sure the EGR valve is clean ( if you do clean it replace the gasket! ), and if you properly tested everything that you said you have, maybe try replacing the ECU with a used one. The fluctuation is a symptom, not the problem. The reason it is fluctuating is because if the engine is idling too high, the ECU cuts the injector PW.
Here is a good thread about the idle issue and ECU.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-read-3263995/
Here is a good thread about the idle issue and ECU.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-read-3263995/
i did voltage test the tps and got good ground and 5v reference and .5v closed and 4.5 wot
the ecu Ecu is Brandi new from hamotorsports so I don't think that's the problem
the issue isn't the idle it's acceleration when you take off it get stuck at 1500 and you really got to push it to get it past 1500 also does I think just sitting with light throttle
but I will look into the ect sensor
thanks for info!
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