Ground control spring rates
Need help I bought a used set of ground control coilovers. Need to figure out which are the fronts and rears and what spring rates I am working with.
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Decode the springs via google. Or by memory if you're nifty AF like me.
Length.ID.Rate.
So...
They're both 200mm long.
64mm ID.
Dimensionally the same. 7.9" long and 2.5" ID.
Bottom one is 58N rate. Or 330LB/IN.
[(58/9.8)x (2.2 × 25.4)] = 330LB/IN.
Top one is 44N rate. Or 250LB/IN.
[(44/9.8) x (2.2 x 25.4)] = 250LB/IN
OTS GC's for civics and integras would put the 58N (330LB/IN) springs up front.
Length.ID.Rate.
So...
They're both 200mm long.
64mm ID.
Dimensionally the same. 7.9" long and 2.5" ID.
Bottom one is 58N rate. Or 330LB/IN.
[(58/9.8)x (2.2 × 25.4)] = 330LB/IN.
Top one is 44N rate. Or 250LB/IN.
[(44/9.8) x (2.2 x 25.4)] = 250LB/IN
OTS GC's for civics and integras would put the 58N (330LB/IN) springs up front.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
To answer what should (hopefully) be your next question, you should safely/properly be able to lower the car about 1" on these rates.
If safely/properly is not in the cards, then YOLO them to whatever ride height you want.
If safely/properly is not in the cards, then YOLO them to whatever ride height you want.
Thanks alot for the info I am lowering them on koni yellows
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
yes I have the koni specific sleeves. Do you think a 1.5 inch drop would be pushing it. Or should I just get some new coilovers or springs
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Well...1.5 is going to make you use your bumpstops more often. Koni recommends like 1.38" max, IIRC. And even 1.38 seems fairly low for 330/250 springs.
You might be fine. Just watch for big bumps, and cut your bumpstops to the right length. Try it and see how you like it. The stock bumpstops are soft, so it should cushion well still.
Stiffening the shocks won't help in the traditionally thought way, BTW. Because the adjuster only adjusts rebound damping. But if the car is bouncing upward from hitting said bumpstops, then stiffening the shock will help with that.
If it came down to it, you could either try slipping the front shock down further into the fork...or use extended tophats or RCA's. There's ways around it. But you'll then need to tune bumpstop length so that you don't hit the UCA on the shock tower.
You might be fine. Just watch for big bumps, and cut your bumpstops to the right length. Try it and see how you like it. The stock bumpstops are soft, so it should cushion well still.
Stiffening the shocks won't help in the traditionally thought way, BTW. Because the adjuster only adjusts rebound damping. But if the car is bouncing upward from hitting said bumpstops, then stiffening the shock will help with that.
If it came down to it, you could either try slipping the front shock down further into the fork...or use extended tophats or RCA's. There's ways around it. But you'll then need to tune bumpstop length so that you don't hit the UCA on the shock tower.
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Well...1.5 is going to make you use your bumpstops more often. Koni recommends like 1.38" max, IIRC. And even 1.38 seems fairly low for 330/250 springs.
You might be fine. Just watch for big bumps, and cut your bumpstops to the right length. Try it and see how you like it. The stock bumpstops are soft, so it should cushion well still.
Stiffening the shocks won't help in the traditionally thought way, BTW. Because the adjuster only adjusts rebound damping. But if the car is bouncing upward from hitting said bumpstops, then stiffening the shock will help with that.
If it came down to it, you could either try slipping the front shock down further into the fork...or use extended tophats or RCA's. There's ways around it. But you'll then need to tune bumpstop length so that you don't hit the UCA on the shock tower.
You might be fine. Just watch for big bumps, and cut your bumpstops to the right length. Try it and see how you like it. The stock bumpstops are soft, so it should cushion well still.
Stiffening the shocks won't help in the traditionally thought way, BTW. Because the adjuster only adjusts rebound damping. But if the car is bouncing upward from hitting said bumpstops, then stiffening the shock will help with that.
If it came down to it, you could either try slipping the front shock down further into the fork...or use extended tophats or RCA's. There's ways around it. But you'll then need to tune bumpstop length so that you don't hit the UCA on the shock tower.
Hey guys looking at replacement springs for these soft ones I have my eyes on some hypercoil 8" 2.5"id 500lbs all 4 the same. My car will be mostly drag raced at the track and once in a while daily driven. Will this be a good spring rate?
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
ehhh those may not work well for either purpose (I could be wrong).
My experience is that 500LB rears aren't going to ride so well on the street unless you've re-valved the shock. You're asking a lot of a stock Koni yellow to damp a 500LB spring on the back of a fairly light FWD car.
From what I see on pre-made drag coilover setups, the rear spring is extremely hard to prevent squatting. I've seen things like 10K fronts and 18K rears (for example).
Why are you stiffening the springs?
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