RPM Gauge Not Accurate
I just swapped my 1992 CX hatch to a D16Y8 vtec and now the RPM reading is not right at all.(Speedo works just fine) When I start the car the RPM gauge reads 2000 at normal idle. The car runs fine no problems idling or anything. When I drive and hit rev limiter the needle never comes close to red line. When i'm at at stop the car idles normally but the gauge still reads 2000. When I turn the car off the needle goes to 0. I know this could be the distributor or the cluster its self but I want to make sure before I spend money on parts. Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
Using the 5th gen cluster on a 6th gen engine, the gauge is not calibrated to the engine.
Sounds to me like the current/voltage levels changed between the two generations (obd1 and the obd2).
Like previous poster said, you can use an external clock to set the needle on your tach. Even then it maybe even less accurate than Honda tachs are known to be at the higher RPM's. The total resistance in the tach maybe different than on the 6th gen tach, so even if you get the idle rpm correct, it will be off as the RPM raises.
Sounds to me like the current/voltage levels changed between the two generations (obd1 and the obd2).
Like previous poster said, you can use an external clock to set the needle on your tach. Even then it maybe even less accurate than Honda tachs are known to be at the higher RPM's. The total resistance in the tach maybe different than on the 6th gen tach, so even if you get the idle rpm correct, it will be off as the RPM raises.
Using the 5th gen cluster on a 6th gen engine, the gauge is not calibrated to the engine.
Sounds to me like the current/voltage levels changed between the two generations (obd1 and the obd2).
Like previous poster said, you can use an external clock to set the needle on your tach. Even then it maybe even less accurate than Honda tachs are known to be at the higher RPM's. The total resistance in the tach maybe different than on the 6th gen tach, so even if you get the idle rpm correct, it will be off as the RPM raises.
Sounds to me like the current/voltage levels changed between the two generations (obd1 and the obd2).
Like previous poster said, you can use an external clock to set the needle on your tach. Even then it maybe even less accurate than Honda tachs are known to be at the higher RPM's. The total resistance in the tach maybe different than on the 6th gen tach, so even if you get the idle rpm correct, it will be off as the RPM raises.
I have no idea how your swap is done. The obd2 Y8 has a crank fluctuation sensor that is not present on the OBD1 motors.
As well it has a knock sensor on the back of the block that is not on the OBD1 motors.
If you are running the P28 OBD1 ecu with OBD1 injectors and Distributor... You will have to do a lot of work to get an OBD2 ecu in there.
I also don't know the fitment or shapes of the 6th gen clusters or the gauges themselves to know if they are even remotely usable in the 5th gen civic.
As well it has a knock sensor on the back of the block that is not on the OBD1 motors.
If you are running the P28 OBD1 ecu with OBD1 injectors and Distributor... You will have to do a lot of work to get an OBD2 ecu in there.
I also don't know the fitment or shapes of the 6th gen clusters or the gauges themselves to know if they are even remotely usable in the 5th gen civic.
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CIVICEKHATCH98
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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May 6, 2012 09:14 PM







