I have another post asking questions about a b build, but I don't know if it will get me where i want it to. So here is the next idea.

f23 block- bored to 87mm with forged low comp pistons- stock crank and rods- f23 was chosen to avoid the cost of sleeving a block
h22 head- stock- jdm h22 cams, stock intake manifold-ported and gutted.
tubular exhaust turbo manifold- something decent not eBay cheap crud. A matching turbo to support- unsure on the specifics yet.
neptune or hondata
H2B kit with Ls trans with LSD- stock flywheel with good clutch
yes fuel system will be upgraded, all the basics covered. Just wondering about the potential of such a build. I sure haven't found much on them.

I like a challenge, that is part of the fun. Everybody does turbo ls, or b16 or b18, but I have not seen much on a turbo f23 with h22 head.

Anyone know why I shouldn't build this?????

 

Your current idea of an engine build is garbage, that's why you shouldn't. If you're going to use a SOHC block, use a SOHC head, period. Skip the frankenstein crap. If you must have a DOHC engine, pick up an F20B and stroke it with the F23 crank. It has iron liners so you can run a forged piston easily.

Low compression? No. It's 2016. 10:1+ or don't even build it.

Stock rods? Literally the worst idea I've seen for a turbo Honda build. If you're going to go through all the trouble of building an engine, spend the extra cash for a decent set of rods. The stock H/F rods are barely good for ~300wtq reliably, give or take a bit depending on the engine. A stock rod will come flying out of the front of the block long before you have issues with the stock pistons, assuming your tuner has half a brain in his head.


400whp is pushing it on the stock sleeves anyway. Especially if you go 1mm over. These engines make torque. Torque is what moves the car. Torque is what breaks parts. Look at it this way, whatever part you don't upgrade will be the part that fails. Build it right or build it twice.

 

Thanks for the input.... I do appreciate the time it took for your answer. Although not very helpful on a constructive level, I will take it with a grain of internet salt.

I have run an f20b didn't care for it. My LSV was faster, so I don't see me going back that route. No it was't boosted but I wasn't very happy with it overall. Small valves, i guess good for autocross but I don't think an f20b would make a good boosted motor.

I have been reading more and more about compression and realize I can run more than originally thought. I am also looking at rods and piston sets for the f23. It will get the H22 head, just because. This will just be a fun motor, not a race car- heck I don't even have a chassis for the drivetrain yet. LOL. But the shell will be the cheapest part of it all.

 

I can't tell if you're a troll or just someone lacking basic research skills. F20B has 1mm smaller intake valves than a similar H22 head. Doesn't matter for 400whp. Doesn't matter at all. A bone stock F20B will do 400whp regardless of what you "think". My suggestion was to use an F23 crank to stroke an F20B block in case you somehow missed that. You need F23 rods to go with that in case that wasn't completely obvious as well. You would get the same, if not better, results and have an engine that would bolt together like it is supposed to instead of having to spend time, money, and effort sourcing timing parts, blocking off oil passages, etc.


Shodan plz

 

Lmao... I totally missed the STROKE the f20b.
You do bring up good points, and they are valid.

But, to stroke the f20b with the f23 internals, it would pop the piston out of the hole like .040. And if it didn't hit the valves, I would have around 12 to 1 compression. The f20b then runs a small bore 85mm, so to get shorter pin height pistons, I would be looking at a custom pistons most likely. At that point I may as well just sleeve the f20b... so why not build the original h22 I am trying not to do?
Which brings it back full circle to running the f23b Block.

I will be in to the f23, with machining, rods and pistons maybe 1500.

To sleeve a h22 I'm at maybe 1000, plus rods and pistons another 1000 plus final machine work of 500.

Then I have a block capable of 500+whp which necessitates a much larger turbo, once again increasing the cost of the build monumentally. YES It would be a hp and tq monster. Bringing up all of your other points about breaking parts....

Thank you for your input. It is appreciated.

 

You can use a wide variety of forged pistons with the F23 crank/rods in the F20B block. Just off the top of my head, F22 forged pistons in whatever comp/bore you want, K20/K24 pistons work with a 1mm overbore, there are some stroker 4G63 pistons that work. The options are out there. In the end if none of those things suit you, you can always call Wiseco and have them make whatever you want. I have been messing with H/F series specifically for over a decade now and I would never advocate a "G" series engine when there are clearly much better options available. The few I have seen go through with a "G" build ended up with sub-par power numbers and problems. Always problems.

Just because you have a block capable of X, doesn't mean you have to make X. In fact, a block made to run 500whp will last longer at 400whp. Cutting corners is not going to be your friend. Whichever way you go is going to cost a considerable amount of money for any degree of reliability at the power level you're wanting. If you want cheap speed, slap a kit on a stock block, get a good tune, make 350 and call it a day. The potentially shorter gearing of the H2B setup and the light chassis will make that kind of power go far.

 

Did you figure it out???????

 

I was cranky in 2016 apparently.

 

A 500 wheel HP 4-Cylinder Honda is SUPER HIGH MAINTENANCE... like dating a bougie, spoiled, entitled woman !!!

 

 

I built a 83mm sleeved B16 for E85 instead.

 

you totally were. LMAO!!!!