Pauter rod limits
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From: sunrise, FL, USA
Pauter rod limits
Anyone running these over 900whp? Also on the arp 2000bolts? I know they are stronger but heavy, not sure how it's effecting things on the high powered setups.
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From: Ponca City, Oklahoma, United States
Re: Pauter rod limits
I ran them. Not over 900whp but I was just under 700. I know you're looking for over 900 but I feel my input will still be important.
Because of the weight of the rods, we feel the arp 2000 bolts should be replaced each season. May seem excessive, but the extra weight at high rpm and power causes extra stretch on the bolts. I lost a rod because I didn't replace the bolts on its 2nd season.
Because of the weight of the rods, we feel the arp 2000 bolts should be replaced each season. May seem excessive, but the extra weight at high rpm and power causes extra stretch on the bolts. I lost a rod because I didn't replace the bolts on its 2nd season.
Thread Starter
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From: sunrise, FL, USA
Re: Pauter rod limits
well strength wise do you guys thing the carrillo pro h are stronger than the pauters? not talking bolts. wondering because i can get a good price on those with carr bolts.
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Re: Pauter rod limits
I had the Pauters on a b18c1, 84mm typical fwd build. Had the 2000 bolts, ran the same engine for 2 seasons before switching to a different car/setup. The car made 997whp on a mustang dyno...not sure what the actual whp was beings I know the mustang dyno eats a bit up. Never gave us any issues.
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From: MOBTOWN,MD
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From: Atlanta, GA
Re: Pauter rod limits
I had the Pauters on a b18c1, 84mm typical fwd build. Had the 2000 bolts, ran the same engine for 2 seasons before switching to a different car/setup. The car made 997whp on a mustang dyno...not sure what the actual whp was beings I know the mustang dyno eats a bit up. Never gave us any issues.
Never made that kind of power with pauters in the motor . . . good to know
How many passes did you make? What did the rod bearings look like? What were you torquing the bolts to (or bolt stretch)?
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Re: Pauter rod limits
This was back in 2011-2012. I was running a local heads up race series; probably 35-40 passes per season if i had to put a number on it. bearings were good. i would check the bearings mid-season and over the winter. they were torqued to pauter spec of 50 ftlbs.
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From: Sin City
Re: Pauter rod limits
just make you upgrade the wrist pin in your pistons and the bushing to match on the connecting rod. Your rods will last longer due to the wrist pin absorbing most of the shock from the ignition event.
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From: Indianapolis, USA
Re: Pauter rod limits
Pauter is a good rod, but upgrade the bolt. That's a heavy rod and swinging that thing 11k rpm puts a lot of strain on that bolt, and there will be more crank flex also. ARP2000s in an aluminum rod is a totally different deal. If you haven't bought the rods already, there are other options depending on your power level.
I dunno about all that.
Good advice, and also make sure you have a piston that's up to the power. A lot of shelf pistons were not designed for the power guys are making now and the pins can pull right out of the piston in pretty short time.
I dunno about all that.
Good advice, and also make sure you have a piston that's up to the power. A lot of shelf pistons were not designed for the power guys are making now and the pins can pull right out of the piston in pretty short time.
Re: Pauter rod limits
This thread has prompted me to order the new ARP625+ bolts for my Pauter rods since my motor is currently apart. $28 per bolt, wow! but for a peace of mind I had to.
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From: Indianapolis, USA
Re: Pauter rod limits
I'm not trying to start a debate over one brand vs another because Carrillo is one of the highest quality rods on the market and I don't want to act like a know it all. I use Carrillo a lot in some of our roundy round engines and have some friends that work there and that is an outstanding company. For the type of engines we are talking about (I'm assuming turbo drag race?), H-beam rods aren't ideal. I feel most engine builders from any segment would agree if you told them the hp output per hole and the rpm level.
Rods don't normally bend or break on the compression stroke due to compressive force. They break on the exhaust stroke at high rpm from being pulled apart.
-H-Beam rod designs in general handle high compressive loads that rise as power production increases. H beams are more suited for low rpm high tq engines. You see them used a lot in big displacement boat engines that have high output below 6000rpm, or in sprint car or NASCAR for high rpm, but 100-125hp per hole. We are talking much more rpm and more than 300bhp per hole.
-I-beam rods built heavy for high hp are more suited for high horsepower and high rpm loads. They have to been a decently sized rod of good material, but they can handle more power and rpm.
If you put a Pro H with Carr bolt in a modern top of the class SFWD car that legitimately makes over 1200whp and goes through the traps over 11,000 rpm at mid 180mph...that rod likely won't make it through qualifying. A lot of guys learned this when they started getting over that 1000 mark...Pro H breaks. The way some of these guys tune cars it may not making it through a burnout LOL. By comparison you could get by for awhile on a Turbo Tuff I-beam with a good tuneup on the car, and on a Pauter. The Pauter is brutally strong, but so heavy it can really flex the crank at the rpm these are spinning and you do risk hurting the crank.
We use Pro H rods up to 800whp on a 4 cyl. Can they handle more? Sure, but they are on borrowed time, and obviously the tune and the way the engine is treated can greatly affect how long the engine will live. Overseas H-beams 500-600, Turbo Tuff for a 1000hp street car and limited use past 1100. The lower the rpm the better on those.
Just because its a name brand doesn't mean the rod can be used outside its intended design. An example is a standard Carrillo A beam. They are beyond their design past 75hp per hole....so at 300-350whp and 9500 rpm in a street'ish K motor, they ARE going to break. Not if, but when. Guys spend $8-900 "upgrading" to those, and a stock honda K rod was possibly going to hold up better. Endurance duty on a 400hp high rpm all motor deal or a 550-600hp turbo endurance motor...Carrillo Pro H is excellent.
That's just my $.02 opinion. There are a lot of other great steel rod companies like Lentz and others that I think challenge your statement.
Rods don't normally bend or break on the compression stroke due to compressive force. They break on the exhaust stroke at high rpm from being pulled apart.
-H-Beam rod designs in general handle high compressive loads that rise as power production increases. H beams are more suited for low rpm high tq engines. You see them used a lot in big displacement boat engines that have high output below 6000rpm, or in sprint car or NASCAR for high rpm, but 100-125hp per hole. We are talking much more rpm and more than 300bhp per hole.
-I-beam rods built heavy for high hp are more suited for high horsepower and high rpm loads. They have to been a decently sized rod of good material, but they can handle more power and rpm.
If you put a Pro H with Carr bolt in a modern top of the class SFWD car that legitimately makes over 1200whp and goes through the traps over 11,000 rpm at mid 180mph...that rod likely won't make it through qualifying. A lot of guys learned this when they started getting over that 1000 mark...Pro H breaks. The way some of these guys tune cars it may not making it through a burnout LOL. By comparison you could get by for awhile on a Turbo Tuff I-beam with a good tuneup on the car, and on a Pauter. The Pauter is brutally strong, but so heavy it can really flex the crank at the rpm these are spinning and you do risk hurting the crank.
We use Pro H rods up to 800whp on a 4 cyl. Can they handle more? Sure, but they are on borrowed time, and obviously the tune and the way the engine is treated can greatly affect how long the engine will live. Overseas H-beams 500-600, Turbo Tuff for a 1000hp street car and limited use past 1100. The lower the rpm the better on those.
Just because its a name brand doesn't mean the rod can be used outside its intended design. An example is a standard Carrillo A beam. They are beyond their design past 75hp per hole....so at 300-350whp and 9500 rpm in a street'ish K motor, they ARE going to break. Not if, but when. Guys spend $8-900 "upgrading" to those, and a stock honda K rod was possibly going to hold up better. Endurance duty on a 400hp high rpm all motor deal or a 550-600hp turbo endurance motor...Carrillo Pro H is excellent.
That's just my $.02 opinion. There are a lot of other great steel rod companies like Lentz and others that I think challenge your statement.
GDD Lonely Krew
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 860
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From: Reseda, CA, USA
Re: Pauter rod limits
I'm not trying to start a debate over one brand vs another because Carrillo is one of the highest quality rods on the market and I don't want to act like a know it all. I use Carrillo a lot in some of our roundy round engines and have some friends that work there and that is an outstanding company. For the type of engines we are talking about (I'm assuming turbo drag race?), H-beam rods aren't ideal. I feel most engine builders from any segment would agree if you told them the hp output per hole and the rpm level.
Rods don't normally bend or break on the compression stroke due to compressive force. They break on the exhaust stroke at high rpm from being pulled apart.
-H-Beam rod designs in general handle high compressive loads that rise as power production increases. H beams are more suited for low rpm high tq engines. You see them used a lot in big displacement boat engines that have high output below 6000rpm, or in sprint car or NASCAR for high rpm, but 100-125hp per hole. We are talking much more rpm and more than 300bhp per hole.
-I-beam rods built heavy for high hp are more suited for high horsepower and high rpm loads. They have to been a decently sized rod of good material, but they can handle more power and rpm.
If you put a Pro H with Carr bolt in a modern top of the class SFWD car that legitimately makes over 1200whp and goes through the traps over 11,000 rpm at mid 180mph...that rod likely won't make it through qualifying. A lot of guys learned this when they started getting over that 1000 mark...Pro H breaks. The way some of these guys tune cars it may not making it through a burnout LOL. By comparison you could get by for awhile on a Turbo Tuff I-beam with a good tuneup on the car, and on a Pauter. The Pauter is brutally strong, but so heavy it can really flex the crank at the rpm these are spinning and you do risk hurting the crank.
We use Pro H rods up to 800whp on a 4 cyl. Can they handle more? Sure, but they are on borrowed time, and obviously the tune and the way the engine is treated can greatly affect how long the engine will live. Overseas H-beams 500-600, Turbo Tuff for a 1000hp street car and limited use past 1100. The lower the rpm the better on those.
Just because its a name brand doesn't mean the rod can be used outside its intended design. An example is a standard Carrillo A beam. They are beyond their design past 75hp per hole....so at 300-350whp and 9500 rpm in a street'ish K motor, they ARE going to break. Not if, but when. Guys spend $8-900 "upgrading" to those, and a stock honda K rod was possibly going to hold up better. Endurance duty on a 400hp high rpm all motor deal or a 550-600hp turbo endurance motor...Carrillo Pro H is excellent.
That's just my $.02 opinion. There are a lot of other great steel rod companies like Lentz and others that I think challenge your statement.
Rods don't normally bend or break on the compression stroke due to compressive force. They break on the exhaust stroke at high rpm from being pulled apart.
-H-Beam rod designs in general handle high compressive loads that rise as power production increases. H beams are more suited for low rpm high tq engines. You see them used a lot in big displacement boat engines that have high output below 6000rpm, or in sprint car or NASCAR for high rpm, but 100-125hp per hole. We are talking much more rpm and more than 300bhp per hole.
-I-beam rods built heavy for high hp are more suited for high horsepower and high rpm loads. They have to been a decently sized rod of good material, but they can handle more power and rpm.
If you put a Pro H with Carr bolt in a modern top of the class SFWD car that legitimately makes over 1200whp and goes through the traps over 11,000 rpm at mid 180mph...that rod likely won't make it through qualifying. A lot of guys learned this when they started getting over that 1000 mark...Pro H breaks. The way some of these guys tune cars it may not making it through a burnout LOL. By comparison you could get by for awhile on a Turbo Tuff I-beam with a good tuneup on the car, and on a Pauter. The Pauter is brutally strong, but so heavy it can really flex the crank at the rpm these are spinning and you do risk hurting the crank.
We use Pro H rods up to 800whp on a 4 cyl. Can they handle more? Sure, but they are on borrowed time, and obviously the tune and the way the engine is treated can greatly affect how long the engine will live. Overseas H-beams 500-600, Turbo Tuff for a 1000hp street car and limited use past 1100. The lower the rpm the better on those.
Just because its a name brand doesn't mean the rod can be used outside its intended design. An example is a standard Carrillo A beam. They are beyond their design past 75hp per hole....so at 300-350whp and 9500 rpm in a street'ish K motor, they ARE going to break. Not if, but when. Guys spend $8-900 "upgrading" to those, and a stock honda K rod was possibly going to hold up better. Endurance duty on a 400hp high rpm all motor deal or a 550-600hp turbo endurance motor...Carrillo Pro H is excellent.
That's just my $.02 opinion. There are a lot of other great steel rod companies like Lentz and others that I think challenge your statement.
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 540
Likes: 17
From: Johannesburg, Gauteng, South Africa
Re: Pauter rod limits
I'm not trying to start a debate over one brand vs another because Carrillo is one of the highest quality rods on the market and I don't want to act like a know it all. I use Carrillo a lot in some of our roundy round engines and have some friends that work there and that is an outstanding company. For the type of engines we are talking about (I'm assuming turbo drag race?), H-beam rods aren't ideal. I feel most engine builders from any segment would agree if you told them the hp output per hole and the rpm level.
Rods don't normally bend or break on the compression stroke due to compressive force. They break on the exhaust stroke at high rpm from being pulled apart.
-H-Beam rod designs in general handle high compressive loads that rise as power production increases. H beams are more suited for low rpm high tq engines. You see them used a lot in big displacement boat engines that have high output below 6000rpm, or in sprint car or NASCAR for high rpm, but 100-125hp per hole. We are talking much more rpm and more than 300bhp per hole.
-I-beam rods built heavy for high hp are more suited for high horsepower and high rpm loads. They have to been a decently sized rod of good material, but they can handle more power and rpm.
If you put a Pro H with Carr bolt in a modern top of the class SFWD car that legitimately makes over 1200whp and goes through the traps over 11,000 rpm at mid 180mph...that rod likely won't make it through qualifying. A lot of guys learned this when they started getting over that 1000 mark...Pro H breaks. The way some of these guys tune cars it may not making it through a burnout LOL. By comparison you could get by for awhile on a Turbo Tuff I-beam with a good tuneup on the car, and on a Pauter. The Pauter is brutally strong, but so heavy it can really flex the crank at the rpm these are spinning and you do risk hurting the crank.
We use Pro H rods up to 800whp on a 4 cyl. Can they handle more? Sure, but they are on borrowed time, and obviously the tune and the way the engine is treated can greatly affect how long the engine will live. Overseas H-beams 500-600, Turbo Tuff for a 1000hp street car and limited use past 1100. The lower the rpm the better on those.
Just because its a name brand doesn't mean the rod can be used outside its intended design. An example is a standard Carrillo A beam. They are beyond their design past 75hp per hole....so at 300-350whp and 9500 rpm in a street'ish K motor, they ARE going to break. Not if, but when. Guys spend $8-900 "upgrading" to those, and a stock honda K rod was possibly going to hold up better. Endurance duty on a 400hp high rpm all motor deal or a 550-600hp turbo endurance motor...Carrillo Pro H is excellent.
That's just my $.02 opinion. There are a lot of other great steel rod companies like Lentz and others that I think challenge your statement.
Rods don't normally bend or break on the compression stroke due to compressive force. They break on the exhaust stroke at high rpm from being pulled apart.
-H-Beam rod designs in general handle high compressive loads that rise as power production increases. H beams are more suited for low rpm high tq engines. You see them used a lot in big displacement boat engines that have high output below 6000rpm, or in sprint car or NASCAR for high rpm, but 100-125hp per hole. We are talking much more rpm and more than 300bhp per hole.
-I-beam rods built heavy for high hp are more suited for high horsepower and high rpm loads. They have to been a decently sized rod of good material, but they can handle more power and rpm.
If you put a Pro H with Carr bolt in a modern top of the class SFWD car that legitimately makes over 1200whp and goes through the traps over 11,000 rpm at mid 180mph...that rod likely won't make it through qualifying. A lot of guys learned this when they started getting over that 1000 mark...Pro H breaks. The way some of these guys tune cars it may not making it through a burnout LOL. By comparison you could get by for awhile on a Turbo Tuff I-beam with a good tuneup on the car, and on a Pauter. The Pauter is brutally strong, but so heavy it can really flex the crank at the rpm these are spinning and you do risk hurting the crank.
We use Pro H rods up to 800whp on a 4 cyl. Can they handle more? Sure, but they are on borrowed time, and obviously the tune and the way the engine is treated can greatly affect how long the engine will live. Overseas H-beams 500-600, Turbo Tuff for a 1000hp street car and limited use past 1100. The lower the rpm the better on those.
Just because its a name brand doesn't mean the rod can be used outside its intended design. An example is a standard Carrillo A beam. They are beyond their design past 75hp per hole....so at 300-350whp and 9500 rpm in a street'ish K motor, they ARE going to break. Not if, but when. Guys spend $8-900 "upgrading" to those, and a stock honda K rod was possibly going to hold up better. Endurance duty on a 400hp high rpm all motor deal or a 550-600hp turbo endurance motor...Carrillo Pro H is excellent.
That's just my $.02 opinion. There are a lot of other great steel rod companies like Lentz and others that I think challenge your statement.
There is another read asking about the strength of Eagles - what's your take on these ? I'm currently running Eagle H-beams with L19 bolts making ~650whp (Dynojet equivalent) and revving to 9200 rpm but want to upgrade cams and turbo to go to ~750whp. Should I replace the Eagle/L19 combo with a set of refurbed Pauters (3 good rods, one resized) or is the Eagle combo 'safe' for ~750whp & 9500 rpm ??
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