Headers
What's up guys, Last week I decided to look behind my heat shield and it didn't look pretty lol just rusty and old obviously right. I was wondering what headers would be good for a automatic 1991 cb7?
Thanks.
Thanks.
A4 or A6 OEM will work, be it the Tubular 4-2-1 Exhaust manifold from an F22A4 or the cast 4-2-1 manifold from an F22A6.
Other than that, any of the generic F22A crap from overseas that is found all over ebay will work on a small budget!
Other than that, any of the generic F22A crap from overseas that is found all over ebay will work on a small budget!
An aftermarket header won't make any noticeable power on a stock motor. That being said, if you can find a decent DC Sports header, grab it. I found one for $50 and recoated it, and it looks great.
I am going to assume that you mean long or short primaries......??? What do you have done to your engine to make use of long tube headers?
Short primary 4-2-1 Tri-Y headers are about the best you are going to get for a basic bolt-on build or stock engine!
Short primary 4-2-1 Tri-Y headers are about the best you are going to get for a basic bolt-on build or stock engine!
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Not sure what I mean, but what my assumption is with long headers is I feel more power at high rpm vs short headers feeling the power at lower rpms, or would that determine on if Im doing some track time?
My engine is bone stock bro, what I'm going for is a strong stock engine. That I can possibly see some track time and able to run fine as a DD.
Not sure what I mean, but what my assumption is with long headers is I feel more power at high rpm vs short headers feeling the power at lower rpms, or would that determine on if Im doing some track time?
My engine is bone stock bro, what I'm going for is a strong stock engine. That I can possibly see some track time and able to run fine as a DD.
My engine is bone stock bro, what I'm going for is a strong stock engine. That I can possibly see some track time and able to run fine as a DD.
But it looks like my best go to would be short headers right? Lol
In order to see power in the higher RPM you would need to increase compression and upgrade your camshaft.
In stock form these engines stop making power at anything above 5500RPM. A set of long tube headers would not benefit you as much as a good quality Tri-Y setup and 2.5" exhaust. That would be what some would call Shorty headers.
Now if you want to start making this thing breath better and increase compression, you can start hitting the 6-7k RPM range and start making some use of a header with longer primaries.
In stock form these engines stop making power at anything above 5500RPM. A set of long tube headers would not benefit you as much as a good quality Tri-Y setup and 2.5" exhaust. That would be what some would call Shorty headers.
Now if you want to start making this thing breath better and increase compression, you can start hitting the 6-7k RPM range and start making some use of a header with longer primaries.
In order to see power in the higher RPM you would need to increase compression and upgrade your camshaft.
In stock form these engines stop making power at anything above 5500RPM. A set of long tube headers would not benefit you as much as a good quality Tri-Y setup and 2.5" exhaust. That would be what some would call Shorty headers.
Now if you want to start making this thing breath better and increase compression, you can start hitting the 6-7k RPM range and start making some use of a header with longer primaries.
In stock form these engines stop making power at anything above 5500RPM. A set of long tube headers would not benefit you as much as a good quality Tri-Y setup and 2.5" exhaust. That would be what some would call Shorty headers.
Now if you want to start making this thing breath better and increase compression, you can start hitting the 6-7k RPM range and start making some use of a header with longer primaries.
So how would I get mid range power, guessing between. 1-6k?
I'm going to look into the tri-y setup.
never actually owned a set of Megan..... what part number are you looking at? do they have any material specs available?
Thing you want to look for is the primary tube/pipe wall thickness. The thicker the better. I have a Toucan Industries (Ractive) header from back in the late 90's that used 14 gauge.... You won't find many of them around any more.
A lot of the cheaper overseas ebay garbage use a really thin low grade stainless. This will not benefit you over a stock Honda F22A4 4-2-1 tube manifold. Not only are they loud, they allow way too much heat to be lost from the exhaust too soon. Usually end up rotting from the inside out as condensation forms sits in the seams.
Thing you want to look for is the primary tube/pipe wall thickness. The thicker the better. I have a Toucan Industries (Ractive) header from back in the late 90's that used 14 gauge.... You won't find many of them around any more.
A lot of the cheaper overseas ebay garbage use a really thin low grade stainless. This will not benefit you over a stock Honda F22A4 4-2-1 tube manifold. Not only are they loud, they allow way too much heat to be lost from the exhaust too soon. Usually end up rotting from the inside out as condensation forms sits in the seams.
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