Well my stock block f20b did not last as long as i wanted it too so im back at the drawing board.. I dont think it was a tune issue.. Im not exactly sure what happened first but i suspect it was valve to piston contact and it went from there.. This motor had approximately 100k miles on it and was stock besides the euro r intake manifold.. It did run good for the time it was running, i do think the turbo was a little big for the stock block but it should make more power the second time around.. The car let go at 8200rpms in second gear and did some damage. Dyno and setup can be seen on this thread https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...sults-3266881/ I am going for a second round with a built short block along with a clutch that will hold the power unlike the last one.. I just need to get a head together for the new setup and i wont be skimping on that either.. If you have any questions i can try my best to answer them and advice is always welcome..

 

That didn't take long. Judging by the pics, my guess would be the piston broke right in the pin area and the P2V contact/thrown rod came after everything was loose. I've had 2 stock blocks do that to me in the exact same way. I know a few others that have had that issue as well when making good power. The wrist pin area on the cast piston seems to be the weakest link in the factory rotating assembly. Now it's time to go bigger and better!

 

That was my other guess as to what happened.. short block is on the way to me now and planning on a head with ferrea competition plus valves and their 95lb springs so the next go around should be good to go with a retune.. I'll probably switch out the 255 for a 450 and let the id1000s limit me on power for e85..

 

Good stuff. Should be fun. Shame this one didn't last very long. I know the feeling though. I went through 2 stock bottom end F22s in 3 months last year. By the pictures, it looks like the #2 cylinder, right? Both of mine and the others I know did the same exact thing.




Look familiar? This was at 18-20psi with water/meth on a 57 trim. Car was hanging with a 600whp Chevelle on this motor.

 

Number 3 on this one

 

Wow that didn't take long at all! My gsr cracked a sleeve on the dyno a few months ago so I feel your pain...Stick with it!

 

It's the name of the game man.. I'm going for round two with a better setup so we'll see what happens..

 

Any pics of the plugs? Tops of the other pistons?

 

Sucks, but that's the spirit. Version 2 will hopefully last a bit longer.

 

I can get some other then the one in the picture.. It might be a couple days though..

 

This is the only other one I have at the moment of the other pistons and there is not much to see..

 

When you get a chance, take the time to examine the remaining 3 rods for any sign of bend.

 

I will but that may take a while to be honest..

 

Auto F20B??? What you rev it to?

Edit: Nevermind see you have the manual version. What happens to a lot of people is they get the Auto version and think they can rev it like the Manual version because they think its the same. Valve/Springs and Retainers are JDM H22 in the Autos and we all know Manuals have EuroR/TypeS stuff. Stiffer spring to handle the bit of higher RPM.

With added boost pressure it is critical to have the valves under control upon higher rpm. Thus need a stiffer spring and retainer. Seen a lot of valves be dropped this way.

From the pictures it is hard to see if the valve knicked piston or if debry from piston did. I would take them out and inspect.

SuperTech is the best valve spring for the H motors.

When reving past 7500 rpm it is 100% a gamble with stock H valve springs/retainers... My turbo H23V supertech's/ferrea and Euro R/TypeS head only gets rev'd to 8k or so... 8200 is just asking a lot on weaker springs...

 

In your opinion supertech is my best bet for valve springs?

 

Yes SuperTech 93 lb. Valve Springs and Titanium Retainers...
Ferrea 5k series valves
Ferrea bronze guides, seats etc... OEM degree keepers 7* I believe ferrea only.
Standard 3 angle valve job

You will want to do new guides now instead of later. Just better to do it all at once and then be done.

Valves aren't a must but will definetly help on weight and being able to withstand the heat for much longer...

Different motors different parts work well. SupeTech valve springs and retainers have been a known good combo for the H. Head would be good with anyhting you throw at it.

I always fully build my motors its not because I know I could get away with this and that for however long... it's so nothing will fail anytime soon.

You will need to check into this but your F20B should have P13 size H22 exhaust valve. Your intake valves are 1mm smaller then a p13 h22. I believe you can use the p14 H23A1 valves. They are 1mm smaller.

 

Is there a reason you choose ferrea 5k over the comp plus valves?

 

Funny you mention that... I personally do not think the ferrea comp plus series is worth the extra money...

It is a long story but a guy I know has an H22... He got the comp plus valves the tip length were not the same as the 5k and 6k series and caused issues upon installing with OEM style degree keepers... after measuring and I belive ferrea sending valves twice it was straighten out. I believe ferrea had to re cut the tip length or shorten the top hat in order to make work. Was a quality control error supposively.

The exhaust side was giving him the main issues with the SuperTech 93 lb springs. Turns out comp plus valves cost a lot more and the only thing different in the comp plus is the exhaust valve. The intake valves in the kit are 6k series. So in theory your paying more for both intake and exhaust valves... was kinda a joke. Stick with either 5k or 6k series.

 

Good info thanks esp.net

 

In order number 1,2,4 I didn't have much time to get pictures of the plugs but I will try tomorrow

 

Hi I am on my second motor myself I didn't have that much failure do I overdid it a bit playing around with the antilog I'm also in the motion of putting a stronger block together the only issue is everything is pointing towards Bimoto I can't find no other rods and pistons may I ask what you used

 

I ended up buying a h22 sleeved block with manley rods and cp pistons.. if I was you I would contact reid at KStuned for a set of pistons if you are trying to stay stock bore and stroke with a f20b before I contacted bisimoto.. depending on your power goals the stock rods might be ok.. or step up to a h22 sleeved block and that will open your options up for internals.. good luck and if you have any other questions just ask away.

 

What was your stock compression ratio bro??