internet is full of these threads.

this vs that vs that

and all I find is:
scat is rebranded eagle is rebranded manley is rebranded eagle is rebranded scat is rebranded every other rod on the planet.
all made in china same as Alibaba knockoffs of any other brand.
all you Hbeams look same to me
scat is better because its not eagle is better because its better than manley is better because its not scat...


obviously each brand webpage uses magic words and after reading each one I came to a conclusion that THEY ARE ALL THE BEST...


what are the differences between those 3 rods

I know they probably start as same rods as some people pointed out they are initially made by same company and then finished by each of the 3 brands under their own name

anyone have more technical info about all 3 of them please. I'm just curious because they are slightly different price. and if they are in fact all go through same process then picking rods would be much easier for many people

scat h beam


manley

eagle

 

My $0.02 . . . the higher the cost the more that company did (or should have done in theory) Quality Control work on the rod itself and the dimensions held.

Most of these guys are getting raw forgings done in China/Overseas and then doing the finish machine work here in the US. China *can* produce similar quality materials to here in the US, you just have to pay for it and with shipping it usually ends up being a wash. The cheap crap is cheap for a reason.

I've never broken a SCAT or Eagle rod from impure forgings, it's always been pushing the parts to the limit for what it's worth.

 

They are all Chinese forged rods with finishing work done probably by each company. Of those i would go with the best deal.

 

so now i'm curious what power/rpm threshold you found to be the limit for the scat or eagle rods?

 

In a Honda, I don't know.

900-1000HP in a blown alcohol SBC seems to be about the limit for a Eagle/SCAT h-beam rod. With that motor though there's a handful of other things that could contribute . . . too much clearance isn't that bad, it's too little as it heats up and runs with straight 50wt oil.

Kicked out two rods last time I took it to the track actually . . . 15% overdriven on a 6-71, 355ci, methanol, etc. I'm right on the edge of having to go to aluminum rods though.

 

I have been told these rods tend to give around the 500-600 whp mark depending on tuning and the quality of the builder.

I have always had my builders measure ANY Chinese rods, I have seen incorrect diameter piston pin bushings in them before.

 

The pins are usually the end that is out on them.

I've seen a rod straight from Eagle only have .0003" clearance while the others were in the .0012-.0015 range. That's just asking to seize up.

 

thanks for pointing that out. I'm gonna have to check that on both sets.( I got scat and manley)

what about the finishing process? anyone know what exactly each company does differently?

 

None of this seems right at all... that puts you at 125 HP per rod. I would be more willing to bet it was from somewhere else that you had rod failure. It's generally accepted they are rated at 150whp per rod in a Honda. Some have pushed them passed 200whp per rod with success though... If the metallurgical design structure is similar that would put you at 1,200 - 1,600 whp for failure range. At 15% overdriven that's like 20 psi or so right?

 

Must be a bolt thing with mine . . . I've only used ARP2000s, never the L19 bolts or CA625s.

I'd be interested to see a honda forging vs a standard v8 forging . . . the piston weight alone is going to put more stress on the rod at a given RPM (in my case ~7500). Trolling through YB shows at handful of guys in the 1100-1300rwhp before breakage on the rods.

I'd have to say you are right, I think going to an aluminum rod would soak up a little more of the tune or clearance being wrong which would mask the problems out past 1000hp.