So I bought a Crx last year for a thousand bucks, it had a b16 swap..great, but ever since I got it I haven't been able to make it run correctly, now I got the car running finally and for some reason it won't accelerate. Like I can turn it on and idle and rev while the cars cold but when I try to drive it the Rpms won't climb for some reason, like something's pulling the engine down.no matter how I push the throttle the engine bogs, unless I feather the throttle at 1/3 throttle real fast Rpms will go up a little .. Won't even rev high enough to see if vtec hits, and if it does vtec doesn't pull any harder engine just changes tone like vtecs hitting, the cars running obd-0 still and the ecu shows code #9, that's the cylinder position sensor, could this be my problem? Car also has a deep exhaust tone for some reason not like a Honda I found a connector under the intake that wasent connected to anything and I can't find what it connects to, i recently replaced the fuel pump with an xenocron pump, if that helps with anything any suggestions or help is appreciated im stumped and I'm too far into it now to give up! Thanks

 

That should be your first priority.

 

I was thinking that also..im ordering a dizzy friday but when i read up on it people say their car still runs fine so i wanted a second opinion

 

I don't think it "hates" you per se, but I hear the yellow ones are cursed...

 

Funny, I have a yellow door...anyways distributor on its way I'll keep the thread posted

 

My car does something like that once in a while can't remember code #
But mine just won't go past a certain rpm
(Don't have tach) engine light comes on and after it just boggs out If I keep giving it gas.

I disconnect the positive side on the battery for like 1min or 2 and engine light clears and I'm good. Try it might work.

 

I tried it my cel on dash doesn't work but my ex u still throws codes

 

I think my dizzy is good and it's just the wiring messed up going into the ecu, I'm going to have to read up on this because I'm not to sure but the wiring doesn't look right here, theirs some exposed wiring if you can see it,



This is coming from the dizzy plug going into the loom

 

I got the new distributor in the mail, installed it same way/spot as old one and car still had bogging problem, backfired a couple times...car is still throwing code #9

 

Looking at how much rust you have going on that engine bay I am willing to bet the grounds are in very poor shape. Remove all the grounds, particularly the one by the thermostat. Use a rotary tool with a wire wheel and make the aluminum shine again where the ground connects. Do the same with the ground strap, make that shinny metal again. Repeat the process on all engine grounds. Buy silicone dielectric grease and cover the ground with it.

Poor grounds are the Achilles hills of the electrical system on these cars.

 

I'm going to try this after the holidays, I addressed the wiring that was fraying, dident change anything

 

Actually I forgot to mention, when the fuel pump was changed, their was a white substance lining the bottom of the tank, I would compare it to spackle... Now that I think of it this could be the source of the problem? It smells really bad when it runs, like the fuel its burning doesn't smell normal, what's the correct way to get this **** out of my tank? I was gonna drop it and power wash it out?

 

And a good degreaser, I recommend super clean and you should be good.

 

I bought a B16 swapped CRX with a JDM front end for dirt cheap many years ago because they could not get it to run right. Not even the dealer could figure it out. The owner got tired of throwing money at it, cut his losses and sold the car. All it needed was a $5 ground strap.

 

Was it the oem frame/battery/trains ground? Specifics plz I'll order it right now just to try it

 

It was missing the transmission ground strap. The engine was grounding itself through the front mount and making a tiny spark that you could only see at night.

Grounds, grounds grounds.

 

Cleaned the gunk from the gas tank, and changed the fuel filter man was their crud in there...got it to run better but still hesitates alittle and falls on its face partly, like it just doesn't rev freely... Maybe when I changed the distributor I set ignition timing wrong, I just put the dizzy where the old one was aligned, I don't have a timing light but I moved the distributor around today and it was in the middle first when it was hesitating hard then I tilted it tward the firewall and got it to run a little better so that it idled and would rev like it does now... Do I need to jump the service connector in the passenger side? I was turning the car off to ajust .. Any input? Haven't tried tilting the dizzy the opposite way

 

Check your mechanical timing before you play around with ignition timing