Harmonic balancer issues - 00 Civic EX....(solved)
So one of my sons owns an 89 CRX and after helping him work on it these last few years I was pleased that one of my other kids wanted a Honda as well. Impressed by how durable the engines are...how GREAT the bottom end of a 200,000 mile plus D15 looked when we tore it down..but I digress...
This is a 2000 Civic EX. Same tired story here, threw power steering belt, harmonic blancer was wobbly. Loaded up for BEAR after reading what a beast that bolt is to get off....came loose with a standard ratchet. Pulley fell right off after getting the bolt out.
Splines on Pulley are wiped except for the outermost scant region. No splines on the crank shaft so like everyone Im freaking out until I read that there were no splines on the shaft. Really? Jeez...seems like that might have been a good thing to do Honda. Or else more mating surface or maybe a larger woodruff key. Sheesh. I am an industrial mechanic of sorts and Ive seen larger keys on machines that have to put up with far less.
The keyway in the crank is damaged on the thrust side...looking at the end of the crank snout, the front edge is angled forward the entire length. The back edge is just fine, nice and square.
Of course, Im gonna slap the new balance on for now and tell the boy NOT to hammer the thing...just venting really. He just bought the thing and paid good money for it. Im currently reading everything form jamming nails in it to JB weld, etc. LOL.....holy crap man.
ITs just a stock car, unlike my son with the CRX, this one is not a "Tuner"...so all its got to do is put up with whatever power it naturally makes.
Ive got very hard taper pins at work, I might just jam one of those in there to take up the slop....come to think of it thats just what Ill do.
EDIT.....nope....after looking at it with the pulley on, theres no room for a taper pin. I was poking at the space with various micro screw drivers etc....nothing so far fits. Nice little wire brad. Wheres Billy Mays when I need him! MIGHTY PUTTY. Chewing gum maybe. AGHRRRGHGHGHG!
This is a 2000 Civic EX. Same tired story here, threw power steering belt, harmonic blancer was wobbly. Loaded up for BEAR after reading what a beast that bolt is to get off....came loose with a standard ratchet. Pulley fell right off after getting the bolt out.
Splines on Pulley are wiped except for the outermost scant region. No splines on the crank shaft so like everyone Im freaking out until I read that there were no splines on the shaft. Really? Jeez...seems like that might have been a good thing to do Honda. Or else more mating surface or maybe a larger woodruff key. Sheesh. I am an industrial mechanic of sorts and Ive seen larger keys on machines that have to put up with far less.
The keyway in the crank is damaged on the thrust side...looking at the end of the crank snout, the front edge is angled forward the entire length. The back edge is just fine, nice and square.
Of course, Im gonna slap the new balance on for now and tell the boy NOT to hammer the thing...just venting really. He just bought the thing and paid good money for it. Im currently reading everything form jamming nails in it to JB weld, etc. LOL.....holy crap man.
ITs just a stock car, unlike my son with the CRX, this one is not a "Tuner"...so all its got to do is put up with whatever power it naturally makes.
Ive got very hard taper pins at work, I might just jam one of those in there to take up the slop....come to think of it thats just what Ill do.
EDIT.....nope....after looking at it with the pulley on, theres no room for a taper pin. I was poking at the space with various micro screw drivers etc....nothing so far fits. Nice little wire brad. Wheres Billy Mays when I need him! MIGHTY PUTTY. Chewing gum maybe. AGHRRRGHGHGHG!
The proper fix has always be to weld it. Not the key but just the snout and have it "restored".
Maybe if you had the crank key way pointed down to the ground and had the car on a lift, you would just pull all the splash guard plastic off and the welder would have plenty of room to do the fix without having to pull the motor or crankshaft.
Anyways, other than a weld restore, there isn't a safe fix that I am aware of. I wouldn't trust JB Weld and always cringe when I've seen that mentioned. The torque is at around 100 ft lbs peak, I don't see JB weld not turning to powder with that.
Good luck.
Maybe if you had the crank key way pointed down to the ground and had the car on a lift, you would just pull all the splash guard plastic off and the welder would have plenty of room to do the fix without having to pull the motor or crankshaft.
Anyways, other than a weld restore, there isn't a safe fix that I am aware of. I wouldn't trust JB Weld and always cringe when I've seen that mentioned. The torque is at around 100 ft lbs peak, I don't see JB weld not turning to powder with that.
Good luck.
There should be splines and a keyway. Sounds like you may need to replace the engine.
Post this important information:
1) The engine block code.
2) Pictures of the damaged crank pulley and crankshaft splines.
Post this important information:
1) The engine block code.
2) Pictures of the damaged crank pulley and crankshaft splines.
I know the 92-95 is smooth and the splines are only on the pulley. I have not had the opportunity to pull a 96-00 pulley yet so this information would be good to know.
Everything I pull up on google for the D16Y8 crank shaft, the shaft snout does not have splines, only the pulley.
Pulled from FS: D16y8 parts - Carolina Hondas
D16Y8 crank for sale for 50 bucks USD:

This pic from ff-squad.com/tech/sensors/ckf.jpg:

It doesn't look like the 96-00 D16Y8's have splines on the crankshaft snout. I thought the EX was the D16Y8.
Last edited by TomCat39; Nov 21, 2015 at 09:23 PM.
Thanks for the replies.
No splines were ever on this motor.
In any case, with the new wheel on, I tapped a piece of a 1/16th inch drill bit into the negative space between the new keyway pin and the side of the keyway slot that had been beat up. It fit tight, and it's hard metal. It was only the upper portion of the key slot on one side. Put some thread locker on it and torqued it down. So far so good. If it fails again I will do something better.
No splines were ever on this motor.
In any case, with the new wheel on, I tapped a piece of a 1/16th inch drill bit into the negative space between the new keyway pin and the side of the keyway slot that had been beat up. It fit tight, and it's hard metal. It was only the upper portion of the key slot on one side. Put some thread locker on it and torqued it down. So far so good. If it fails again I will do something better.
Thought Id update this, about 9000 miles on it since and no issues, including a period of time when the car was stolen and I imagine it was driven pretty hard. Going strong!
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