D16y7 stock engine.
No codes. Just passed smog. Runs good. Just recently tuned up week ago. Changed pcv valve,cap&rotor,plugs .45 gap,cleaned iacv, working fuel pump & pressure. I did almost everything to make this car start but its always hard after usage.
Problem: after running for atleast 5miles after i turn it off for maybe 20mins or longer the car wont start again. I always take out the plugs and dry it to start again coz its always wet with gas. Please help.

 

When the engine will NOT start, is spark bright white at all 4 plugs?

 

Read: SPARK PLUGS COVERED IN FUEL - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

Read: https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...8191626AAUPmT8

 

I have not try to see the sparks yet but all 4 plugs are wet everytime.

 

My thing is why im getting gas on the 4 plugs after use? After i dry the plugs it starts 1 click.

 

Most likely from a lack of spark on initial startup as Ron is eluding to.
Possibly, a lack of/ or limited spark is not ignititing the gas properly in the cylinder and therefore the plugs are coverd in gas. Need spark, fuel, air to combust and "start'" the engine.

Another read: http://www.aa1car.com/library/spark_plug_fouling.htm ... "Spark plugs are designed to be self-cleaning up to a point. When the engine is running, the ceramic shell that surrounds the center electrode gets hot and helps to burn off any fuel or oil ash deposits that might otherwise foul the spark plug."

Which brand and model# spark plugs did you install recently?
Honda's are very particular with spark plug brand and NGK ZFR5F-11 is preferred: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/n...ontent=5390273
Also, D16Y7 spark plug gap is .044 inches (1.1mm) and not .45 inches
If you have it gapped at .45 inches then that is most likely the issue.
Did you use a torque wrench and torque spec for the spark plugs?

Each time when you start your engine do you go directly to the key ignition's 3rd (start) position right away?
I have found that turning the key to the 2nd postition and allowing the CEL to turn off (about 3 seconds) and then moving to the 3rd position allows for quicker starts. Seems (hopefully, others can confirm) to allow time for fuel to prime.

 

So the engine will start when it's cold, but won't start when it is hot.

Could be the engine coolant temp sensor.

The ECU thinks the engine is always cold and will dump too much fuel when the engine is warm and flood the cylinders preventing starting.

This sensor is separate from the sensor that runs the temperature gauge.

I think on the D16y7 it's located below the distributor like on the D16Z6.

This doesn't always show a code for a bad ECT sensor also.

 

Jimi hondrix - I installed ngk platinum (i think $3each).
I am doing the key in 2nd and wait til cel lights iff before start the engine. Ok ima try to buy new spark plugs. I was thinking to replace the whole gas line assembly (fuel rail,injectors,fpr) is that necessary? Ty bros for helping

 

Delsol- yes, engine will start when its cold 1 click as long as the plugs are dry. The plugs will be wet after running in the road but if i just let it run in the garage no matter how long the plugs are dry clean burn.
***Plugs only get wet after running in the road***

 

Plugs get wet when you try to start a warm engine with a bad temp sensor.

A warm engine does not need a lot of fuel to start and will not start if it gets as much fuel as a cold engine needs to start. A warm engine will flood instead of start with that much fuel.

A bad temp sensor will tell the ECU the engine is cold even when it is not cold.

Then the ECU dumps too much fuel and you see the wet plugs.

 

Yea bro ima try to replace it and update you guys. Thank you!

 

I disagree with the second statement assuming it was a typo and not .45". Also the gap is .043" not .044".

But to say you will have issues with plugs gapped at .045" is absurd. We'd have to change plugs or regap them every 2-3 months if that were true. However if the poster actually did mean .45".... Then yes, most definitely a problem.

I've pulled plugs out from a solid starting and running car that were worn to nearly double the gap and the car still started and ran perfectly fine.

2/100th of an inch is not going to make or break starting or the running of the car if all other systems are in good working order.

Using platinum or irridium plugs over the NGK v-power plugs will cause performance issues though. The standard v-power plugs are more conductive at the price of wearing faster.

 

Thanks for correcting me TC39.
I was under the assumption the gap has influence in how the spark plug heats up.

 

Did you gap them with a coin-style gap tool or a wire gap tool?
Reason I ask is the platinum tip can possibly be broken off using a coin gapper and NGK recommends using a wire gap tool:

 

I highly doubt the spark plug heat rating has anything to do with spark. Heat of the plug comes more from the combustion in the chamber and the heat transfer in the head. The heat rating is actually used for controlled heat dissipation. Too much the cylinder runs cold and less efficient, too hot and you get hot spots and detonation.

The gap will affect spark quality so the optimum is at spec of course but there is a reasonable tolerance of difference before it's a significant impact on a good running car.

Like I said, I've pulled my plugs before and they've been nearly twice the gap of spec and the car still started and ran fine.

@OP, if you use the wire gapper above, the trick I do is use the .044" and have it a touch tight so the wire just barely squeezes through (this puts it right near .043"). But that is also with the recommended NGK v-power plugs from the FSM. The Platinum tipped plugs will bend the post real easy trying to make it tight like that.

Edit Addendum:
Here is teh FSM pages for the D16Y7 Engine Coolant Temp sensor so you can test yours to see if it is the problem suggested.