My mild b18c1 build was assembled and it makes a lot of noise. I think the noise is coming from the valve train, but I'm not sure. It's a b18c1 bottom end with Nippon std p73 piston, and a b16 head with dual valve springs and blox type b camshafts. I've compression tested the engine it it gets 195 across the board, so i think valves are good, and I've taken it out to do 1/3 throttle pulls 2k-7k(to seat the rings) around the block and it seems to pull decently, other than the noise, pulls good for what it is.

Here's the specs of the blox cams, would they be making the noise?

Type B
Intake (lift / duration) 0.489" / 266°
Exhaust (lift / duration) 0.472" / 266°

Should i try adjusting the valve lash again, or is the noise not from the valves. Could it also be sticking lma's? There's no check engine light, and its running on a chipped p28 Phearable base map, until the tuning shop can fit me into their tuning scheduled. It's not being driven until getting the tune, but was wondering if the noise is abnormal.

Here's a video of the noise its making.

 

Holy ****, that doesn't even remotely sound healthy. Did you use OEM valve lash specs, or Blox? Are you using aftermarket springs and retainers, too? ...Why the **** are you even using those shitty cams in the first place?

 

I used blox valve lash specs, and it has supertech dual valve springs with BC steel retainers. I found a lot of good reviews on ht and internet that's why i went with the blox cams.

 

Something is definitely off.

Did you replace the LMA's or are those stock still? I'm not saying it's slap due to those, but it definitely is cam's hitting the **** out of something too hard.

 

The head was bought off craigslist, with unknown miles on it, i replaced the valves with oem ones, and did the valve stem seals. The lma's were untouch. Here's a video of the engines first start before i installed the cams and valvesprings. In this video it is a stock b16 head with everything oem on the same bottom end that is being used atm. I'm not sure if there's valve noise because of the open header's noise.

 

Sounds like the valves are really tight check that valve lash again. Inspect the cam lobes for excessive wear caused by tight valve lash.

 

Check those valves again. What kind of feeler gauges are you using? Consider pulling out your LMA's and replacing them. With all the upgrades made on the head, I wouldn't rely on the worn OEM assemblies to handle the added stress.

 

I agree wit' dis guy^^^^^^

 

Needs 8 new lifters been there

 

Thanks guys, i'll try redoing the lash tomorrow and see if that's any help, if not then it's definitely the lma.

 

I Tripple check the valves after i torque the nut they can easily move making the valve tighter or looser i know cause it alwasy happens to me. Its one of the reasons my damn back is messed up from bending over and setting the valves on my engine from time to time lol jk

 

What are you using to adjust the screw and tighten the nut with? Screwdriver and open end wrench?

 

Starting to think that on a B18a1. Checked cams and lash several times and they're dead on. Not horribly noisy and runs fine, but there's a bit more noise than should be.

 

Thanks for the replies, here's update, I redid the valves and one or two were a bit tight, but other than that others were in spec of what blox listed. I used a custom 10 mm socket in a wrench with a flat head screw driver to tighten the valves. It seems to idle better with less valve train noise, but there is still that whining noise, that I can't seem to locate. I've tried pushing the lma's but they still look okay, no sticking. Maybe it's the timing belt tensioner or maybe its just the way those cams idle. I'm out of ideas, so I will probably just take it to the tuner as is and ask for their opinion if engine is trashed or not. Thanks guys

 

No i use this tool,







OP sounds like your timing belt might be too tight.

 

Pushing LMA's while sitting in the head isn't a way to determine what condition they're in.

 

Damn, then why the need to triple check your adjustments? I cant understand how the nut can loosen or the valve lose adjustment when tightening the nut?

 

Its very easy cause you must hold the screw driver still while turning the handle, so what happens is right at the end of the torque you can turn the screw driver bit slightly which turns the valve screw and causes the valve to get tighter. But everyone should always at least double check the lash just to be sure before moving to the next. Its why you see so many threads on my valve train still sounds loud even after the valve adjustment. Cause you miss one or two from not checking it again and it will be out of spec, Tight valves will cause a real loud tick in the head. Imo in takes some practice to perform the valve lash adjustment and to get it right. It took me a few times before i learned how to get the resistance right. And or just needs to be checked to insure the valve is in spec. You can be pushing the feeler gauge and feeling the resistance and think you have the proper drag but holding the feeler gauge at the wrong angle can give you a improper drag and can be eaither to loose or too tight, it must be felt with the feeler gauge at level to get the proper drag resistance other wise you will have to adjust it again after checking it.

I find it much easier using a lil bit of assembly lube on the feeler gauge when fealing the resistance, the oil for some reason just doesnt give you a smooth feel like the assembly lube does maybe its just me but i like to use it.

 

I checked over mine twice, and still a bit louder than they should be, and the cam does not show any noticeable wear. I understand the concept of feeler gauge drag also. I could see maybe being a slight bit off, so off top off head, would even 1-2 thousandths tighter than spec cause a noticeable clatter?

 

Could be possible i mean a tight valve train will give you chatter, i had a few intake valves real tight and the head sounded horrible!!!!

 

I dont know man, you make valve adjustments harder than they need to be. I've never had a valve screw slip while tightening down the nut.

There's a simple way to avoid the possibility of not having the feeler gauges at level : https://store.snapon.com/General-Use...--P635151.aspx
Never have a problem again...

 

Man I had that same exact sound with my gsr w type r Pistons and ctr cams. I thought it was my valves too so I adjusted like freakin 20 times till my damn back hurt.

Then i did the long extension stethoscope and found that it came from my distributor. Replaced it and now it's smooth running.

But I'm not saying your having the same issue just an idea what can cause a noise that sounds like it's coming from a valve train since the distributor is connected to the cam shaft.

And are you adjusting ur valves starting with cylinder 1,3,4,2? Or are u just doin 1,2,3,4?
And also are u adjusting them with engine cold or warm?

 

lol maybe i am haha mind if i call you next time i adjust the valves haha jk

yea i have the L shaped fealer gauges, it makes it kinda tricky imo.