Ok guys I'm getting fed up with my car having issues all the time Im pretty sure my head gasket is blown so looking to go a different direction. Current setup is a built bottom b16 with a 5454 precision and supporting mods I have had nothing but problems with this setup for years despite spending tons of money and time and buying the best parts. So I am highly considering going back to an NA setup my question is can you reliably make around 200whp without internal engine work on a gsr motor, or would I be better off throwing some high comp pistons in my b16 and starting there or am I going to fall way short of that # regardless. Almost forgot currently have 9.8/1 compression pistons were I to just replace the blown gasket and remove the turbo setup how much would the low comp hurt power I guess that with be the easiest solution if not that much.

 

Whether you stay turbo or NA is really your business. Honestly, the issues that you think you're having now with your turbo setup is going to be just as much on your NA setup if you're not sure how to either diagnose (or find the right resource to diagnose) those particular issues.

The "which is better" scenario really comes down to what's better for you, specifically.. I'm sure that you're thinking this will be easier than your current issues, but really, it won't.

So, go through your resources first, then decide for yourself which you'd rather do.

You're now about to get barraged with people who will try and convert you to NA as though they were using YOUR money for THEIR project., and not what they would do if they were in your position.

Time for some soul searching.

 

I have been soul searching I'm still not 100% into converting but its just been 1 thing after another and I always fix it and then 2 weeks later its something new and its all been related to the turbo setup electrical gremlins and oil leaks and vacuum issues despite me having a pretty good idea of what I'm doing absolutely a good resource network that definitely does. I want to get back into serious track day use and I feel like simplifying everything will mean more seat time and less repair time and money

 

So sounds like your getting desperate and super frustrated which a turbo setup can do in a hurry. But going NA and wanting to make good power numbers is not to cheap either. I would say this all depends on what your build and what you have motor wise available to you as well and most importantly what you could actually get back out of your turbo setup $ wise.

If its cheaper or equal in $ and would make you happier in the end fix the turbo setup with legit parts I would go with that. If your that over the Turbo setup and just want it gone getting a good GSR is a easier/cheaper start to hitting 200WHP over a B16. Depending on what your B16 has done to it as far as head work+Cams ect, if any and the money already invested into the bottom end it could be as simple as putting in High Comp pistons and a good exhaust setup.

Be prepared for many to say drop the turbo and bottom end and do a B20 swap for its better tq band and power/price point..I am one of them btw but am not gonna beat that drum since I'm going with a fairly expensive build not for the faint of heart or light in wallet kinds lol.

 

You're racing and trying to go for track day use. Repair time and money will be a constant regardless of NA or turbo. You know what they say; if you're not breaking stuff, you're not going fast enough.

Sounds like frustration, and its time to find some reputable resources to help you with these issues. You may not even realize the possibility that as knowledgable as you may be, a second pair of eyes can be a great help in spotting issues that are easily frustrating and can keep you from continuing.

The same issues you're experiencing now, can very easily cross into the NA world with what you're trying to do. A turbo setup can be complicated if you let it, but in the end, what you're describing is ENGINE and ELECTRICAL related, not turbocharger related. You have to know the difference in order to solve the problem.

And yes, I currently own both a turbocharged AND a NA build concurrently.

 

Ok let's forget about the turbo kit entirely and getting hung up on the 200hp thing am I wrong in saying that a non forced induction car in general is less complicated and less stress on the engine and would therefore have a longer survivability rate during heavy road course use and less components to worry about going bad/breaking

 

Less complicated (by way of shear number of components) than NA = YES

Less "stress" on the engine, (provided that both are equally assembled with quality parts and tuned) = NO despite the increase in cylinder pressures that turbocharging presents.

I've been having good suitability in road course for turbocharging for over 10 years. but JUST like NA, you have to use the right components the right way. A bad oil pan baffle will harm a turbo engine just as much as an NA engine in the way of oil starvation.

If its bad/breaking, its because YOU didn't do what was necessary to keep that component from doing so, by either the right component or it couldn't take the punishment from going across the dirt.

You try and tell these individuals that turbocharging doesn't work.

THE HIGH END.

Luke Ryall - Tilton Interiors EG Civic WTAC




Only at 443whp.. more than enough to work.

THE BUDGET END

Boersma Racing - Time Attack Honda








Their setup was SURPRISINGLY SIMPLE.

About the Boersma Racing civic

Boersma Setup before 2015 changes

Even a simple Civic that is K-powered with Turbo can run just fine.. IF YOU HAVE THE RIGHT PARTS AND ASSEMBLY

Take look at the video below and look at the parts list used with the car. You'll notice nothing exotic in the way of parts or configuration. In fact, 90% of those same parts that are used, would have been used even if the car was NA for this type of racing.


You've got tons of German, Swiss and Swedish Hill climbers and time attackers in turbo cars putting MUCH more punishment than you ever will. And most are using off-the-shelf aftermarket parts..

I'm sorry, but I've got a counter-argument for every claim you have with NA on a road course, with a turbocharger claim that deals with similar principles.. No matter what, you get out of it what you put into it, even if that means you don't personally put it in yourself.

Each area of interest in both NA and Turbocharging has its nuances that have to be addressed. For Turbocharging, its proper radiator and heat exchange with the intercooler, as well as additional front weight for the car. For NA, it can also be heating issues, but usually braking, valvetrain and piston acceleration (you rev high, be prepared to have the right stuff in it).

So, sorry, I know this is an NA forum, but I won't let you deflect your engine and electrical issues that you're personally experiencing, to help make a nonsense generalization that one is just "easier" than the other. In some aspects, yes, but not with the conclusory argument you're basing this discussion on.

Carry on.

 

A GSR will get you closer to 200 whp easier than the b16.
A b20 bottom end can get you there too, but if you want to do it with a stock block, the jdm engines have higher compression and may make it easier.

 

B16 even with built motor have no torque so stick to the b18. Stock internals b18c will not get you to 200whp. A b18c with bolt ons, some internal work, and tune will yield 180whp-200whp. Don't set your expectation too high.

 

In my opinion, the adage "no replacement for displacement" is even more true in NA. I would go with at least the B18C. If I were looking for 200wHP out of a B-series motor, I would build a B20vtec.

https://honda-tech.com/all-motor-nat...00whp-2267993/

Plenty of ideas in that thread. 200/150 is good as far as I'm concerned.

If you want to go NA, definitely go with the GSR over a B16. I'd opt for a larger block though.

 

Ever consider just getting rid of the B setup altogether and doing a J swap? plenty of torque, 200 whp with the swap