so im cheap, and making my own obd2b-obd2a jumper harness so i can pass inspection. the only thing really tripping me up is with the oxygen sensors. both obd sides have 2 pins for oxygen sensors. one is a heater control pin, but the obd2a has a sensor ground while the obd2b just calls it the oxygen sensor. are they one in the same? my info is based off the pinout diagrams from katmans web page

 

This should clear up some confusion for you. Basically a direct pin swap guide:

ECU Pinouts | HondaSwap

 

solid thank you good sir!

That link now lives in my bookmarks hehe.

 

car runs no cel's. just need it to hold together for about 25 miles to get to my buddys shop for inspection then its right back to obd1

 

Well glad to hear and that I could help! Good luck with inspection!

 

it passed! then i drove it right home and went back obd1.

you have helped me out a bunch i appreciate it

 

No problem man! Excellent on passing inspection. I have a good friend that has to switch everything back to OBD-2 every other year for emissions testing. It's a pain, but definitely a much easier thing to fudge than a sniffer test. Haha, I love living in a county where the most you have to do is just pay to renew your plates every other year! You can run open cylinder head for all they care (no not header/s)...

 

alright, this is just because im curious.

the afr using the new denso o2 sensor would bounce 13-15 for a minute then just dip into the 10's if i kept my foot on the gas. lifting the gas pedal for a split second would buy me another minute of driving before the same thing. no codes throughout

this is the 2nd b20 swap ive ran off a p75 ecu. the other one was a p8r and it ran great with a slight bump in fuel pressure. this is a b20z and i had to crank the fp up into the mid 60's in order to keep cold idle in the low 15's..

why in the world would both setups run so drastically differently. its not an issue now, but if i ever go to sell the car id have to sell it obd1....