Clutch slips when motor is hot. 94 Civic VX
I've been having this issue for awhile, my clutch starts slipping slightly whenever I sit in traffic for awhile, or it's really hot out, or I drive, shut the car off for a few mins and then drive again.
Once I get on the highway and drive steadily for 3 or 4 minutes, it quits slipping.
I've replaced the clutch master and slave cylinder and the pressure plate and clutch disk, and it is still doing it! Any help would be appreciated.
Once I get on the highway and drive steadily for 3 or 4 minutes, it quits slipping.
I've replaced the clutch master and slave cylinder and the pressure plate and clutch disk, and it is still doing it! Any help would be appreciated.
So I've adjusted and adjusted my clutch pedal height, and while it does get a little better, if it's hot out it is still slipping pretty bad. The only thing I have not replaced was the flywheel.
Are there other possible causes? Flywheel, air or water in the clutch line expanding when it heats up? Sticky slave cylinder not retreating all the way?
Thanks for any help!
I've attached a picture of the flywheel when I had it apart, if that helps.
Are there other possible causes? Flywheel, air or water in the clutch line expanding when it heats up? Sticky slave cylinder not retreating all the way?
Thanks for any help!
I've attached a picture of the flywheel when I had it apart, if that helps.
try a new flywheel mine did the same thing would grab nice when it was cold but as soon as it heated up it would start slipping. I replaced the flywheel and clutch and the problem went away.
Did you have the flywheel resurfaced at all before reassembling everything? You have to remember it's a wear surface. Over the course of it's life the wear surface will shrink but the mounting points of the pressure plate stay the same. As the gap widens between those two planes the clamping force changes for the pressure plate.
Aside from resurfacing the area where the clutch engages, a good machinist will also offset the mounting points of the pressure plate to match and maintain the original design intent.
Aside from resurfacing the area where the clutch engages, a good machinist will also offset the mounting points of the pressure plate to match and maintain the original design intent.
No I didn't have it resurfaced. I was told the flywheel looked ok so it should be fine. Crap, have to take all that stuff apart again! Should have just done it no matter what while it was all apart.
Thanks for the posts guys appreciate it
Thanks for the posts guys appreciate it
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that looks ok.. the lighting makes it look like a deep grove. i can only think that its the clutch pedal/cable.. thats let letting out the clutch all the way
i would not have done a clutch job without replacing/resurfacing the clutch. why wouldnt you? you are already in there doing the job and who wants to redo all that labor again?
just so you know when you replace the fly wheel with a new clutch for the first 10 miles or so you may hear a "swishey" sound when the clutch mates with the new fly wheel. this is nothing more then the two new surfaces mating and meeting each other. this sound should go away in 10 or so miles without any looking back.
just so you know when you replace the fly wheel with a new clutch for the first 10 miles or so you may hear a "swishey" sound when the clutch mates with the new fly wheel. this is nothing more then the two new surfaces mating and meeting each other. this sound should go away in 10 or so miles without any looking back.
I've always been told you should always resurface the flywheel when you change the clutch. Not only do they fix up the surface but it deglazes and by the looks of the replies there is other adjustments that are done that return the clutch to spec even though the flywheel is thinner.
Bum deal for you as now you have to rip it all apart again for a 20-40 dollar machine shop job
Bum deal for you as now you have to rip it all apart again for a 20-40 dollar machine shop job
Yeah I have. I replaced both about a year ago. Checked them again when this started and the slave was leaking a little bit, so I replaced it again. Clutch pedal feels good and solid.
i would not have done a clutch job without replacing/resurfacing the clutch. why wouldnt you? you are already in there doing the job and who wants to redo all that labor again?
just so you know when you replace the fly wheel with a new clutch for the first 10 miles or so you may hear a "swishey" sound when the clutch mates with the new fly wheel. this is nothing more then the two new surfaces mating and meeting each other. this sound should go away in 10 or so miles without any looking back.
just so you know when you replace the fly wheel with a new clutch for the first 10 miles or so you may hear a "swishey" sound when the clutch mates with the new fly wheel. this is nothing more then the two new surfaces mating and meeting each other. this sound should go away in 10 or so miles without any looking back.
Just a followup note. I took it all out again and replaced the flywheel. With the addition of a nice air ratchet and some flexible sockets, I knocked the job out in 5 hours flat. Cannot recommend enough how much faster things go with a good air ratchet and impact gun.
The new flywheel fixed the problem 99%. I got one slippage a week later during 100 degree weather in traffic. Adjusted clutch pedal. So far, no more slips. Thanks to all for the advice and comments.
The new flywheel fixed the problem 99%. I got one slippage a week later during 100 degree weather in traffic. Adjusted clutch pedal. So far, no more slips. Thanks to all for the advice and comments.
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