Do I have a boost leak. When I was driving I noticed power loss and then it went in to limp mode. Overheated and when I looked under the Hood the Turbo was glowing. And when I go and crank it , it sounds like air being spit out and the boost gauge jumps. It threw a cel but it got cleared and still acts up. Thought it would be the map sensor but That's not the case. Checked ckp, tdc,tps, spark, compression, all are good. Ecu is working perfectly, and I noticed when I try to adjust the boost it will not adjust. I'm thinking a boost leak what do you guys think. And What's the easiest way to find a leak.

 

A boost leak tester is the way to find vacuum leaks. you can see exhaust leaks from obvious signs of blowout from gaskets and "noises" that are outside of the typical exhaust sound. Check all clamps, bolts, and flanges for loose fitment or missing parts. You can also check intercooler piping for holes worn into them causing leaks, etc.

Also, check for foreign objects in the exhaust system, air filter, and even the exhaust stream. Check to see if the turbine housing may have cracked.

But this doesn't sound like a leak based upon your symptoms. I'm not in a position to actually diagnose your issues, but this seems to either be

1) a problem within the turbocharger itself, (Impellers, Turbine housing),

or

2) (the more likely problem based upon the manifold "glowing") there is something wrong within the engine itself like issues with mechanical valve timing, such as the timing belt may have skipped a tooth, or foreign object got jammed between the timing belt and the cam gears.. (This could really happen when you have valve covers cut a certain way for the purpose of exposing cam gears for adjustment with no bottom under-engine tray). I know you checked TDC and compression, but this seems more mechanical than electrical. Again, just from what I can see.. I'm just trying to find ways to narrow down the issue here.

 

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Car ran till it went to limp mode and had a hard time staying on.
I thought first it was the map sensor but it wasn't.
I finally got a code and it was 4. Ckp I replaced the dizzy and still had it. I played with the connection to the ckp and ecu and now I do not have that code.
I tried starting it and it was still in limp mode and I was clueless so I turned it off and was checking to see if the dizzy was right. And I noticed that it was firing 2 first instead of 1. Cam timing is off.
What's the easiest was to get this in timing?

 

A timing light gun with connection to #1 spark plug wire, hopefully you have your engine covers still on the car, and check the timing belt to make sure nothing is off. A change in valve opening events like this can cause a lot of problems, especially what you're experience. This isn't about sensors, or even electronics; this is checking mechanical timing.

If you're not sure how to do that, its time to either go on youtube (Eric the car guy is simple and easy) and learn or better yet, head to a professional that has this equipment, if you don't rent it from an auto parts store.

 

Took me awhile due to severed tendons and nerves and a artery in my hands. Had surgery but still can't move my hand. And want to get this going before my next surgery.
This is what I found

 

Looks like the gears slipped are they bolts tight?

 

The cam gear near the firewall the bolt was almost out.

 

That explains it. Timing was totally messed up from the cam gear damage, which caused the "glowing" manifold from the retarded timing change, and therefore it's been diagnosed as no boost leak.

 

What's the quickest way to reset the timing

 

1) Go back to OEM cam gears,
2) Reset timing belt tension
3) Get a timing light where the clip is on spark plug wire #1 (assuming you're on an OEM pulley with lower OEM timing covers) --You can even rent them at parts stores
4) Set to stock 16* timing with a timing light.

There's no other "quick" way to do that.

 

take the timing belt completely off?

Do I just turn the can gears till they are tdc?

Clockwise or counter clockwise?

 

Are you talking about just turning the inner part of the gear while keeping the belt on the whole time? i think you would have a very hard time doing that while keeping it all at 0,0 AND getting the torque right on those bolts.

i would take shodans advice and just go back to the oem gears to get this to where you know it is correct.

ive used GE gears for years and i have NEVER had them slip. you should consider them if you need aftermarket gears.

 

The engine is a counter-clockwise rotation, so you can't set timing and adjustment having it go clockwise. You want to set the car to TDC first the best you can before removing the belt. But yes, take the belt completely off and start over. If your water pump is old, this is a great time to change it out NOW, and save yourself some headache later. This way, when you've put it back on, you can also adjust valves so you can see if anything is damaged from the mis-timed events. Remember, these engines are interference motors, so timing is life.

Right now, honestly, save your money from the gears and go back to OEM. Don't get aftermarket gears unless you're an LS/VTEC, or seriously physical timing adjustments outside the computer. I'll be honest, in the last 10 years, very few people with mild turbo builds like your ever need aftermarket gears for physical timing changes. 90% of timing is adjusted by the computer, again, unless you have an LS/VTEC, in which physical timing has to be adjusted due to the different deck-heights.

I'm not going to go through a step-by-step. It's best to get a Helms manual, or even better, head to Eric-The-Car guy, and download his video. Best money you can buy, and you still support a guy that's been doing this a VERY long time.

https://www.ericthecarguy.com/vmanua...g-belt-vmanual

Do it once, do it right...

 

I need the after market adjustable can gears. I have a built ls/vtec.

 

What are the known cause of cam gears slipping

 

Slippage can occour for different reasons, poor cam gear design, bolts not torqued properly ETC.