Hello guys, I have a 99 Civic LX Auto, stock, well-taken-care-of powertrain.

I just had a question about unused slots in the fusebox, both the under-hood and under-dash. Then another couple questions about the fusebox. TL;DR, questions are in red.

With the under-dash, I saw on the ETM for my car that the fuse's power comes from the YEL wire (IG2). I wondered if I could use the unused fuse slots. In fact, I know I can use them. Since my car isn't from Canada, there's a couple of said unused slots. In this specific example, the power will be going to a relay that powers heated seats. I've asked a few questions on it, and I feel I'm starting to annoy some people, but dammit I wanna do this right the first time.

1. I've found I can use slot 18 for the low side power on the relay, because it calls for a 7.5A fuse on the original car's (a 97 3.0CL) wiring diagram. My question is this: say for example, I want to use an unused under-dash fuse slot for the high side power-to-relay, but the original fuse that's supposed to be used is, say, a 10A fuse. The high side power on the relay calls for a 20A fuse. I wanted to know if I could repin a wire to a normally unused 10A slot and slap in a 20A fuse, without ******* up other things. This would mean the high side wire would only be hot in ON (II). It's supposed to be hot at all times, but I don't think it'd make a huge difference because of not being able to use the heated seats unless the car's ON (II) anyway.

2. My other option for doing this mod, is the +B accessory slot (C926). It comes from the Battery, goes to the under-hood fusebox to a 40A fuse, then to the C926 slot. Then it goes to the desired accessory, then to a ground.

Now, normally that'd be the obvious option. But, I want to put in a security system later, and that'd probably also be used with C926. I don't want to blow the under-hood fuse, so here's what I was thinking: since the seat heaters will only be used when the car is in the ON (II) position, I could put in a 20A in-line fuse for the seat heater high side power-to-relay, then simply put the security system on the same C926 connector later on, and it wouldn't overload the circuit because the two systems wouldn't be used at the same time. Unless the security system would still be used when the car's on, I dunno...

Please let me know if this is confusing. I tried to make sure it was divided and proof-read well enough to be able to understand it. Thanks guise.

 

Yes you can, just make sure you have the exact same connect as the wire you trying to replace it with. As long as you have the correct location and know what you are doing then go for it.

 

LOL.

I did find your questions confusing, but I sorted it out. Help me help you, since I am curious: What is the resistance to wiring it up the OEM way? Fuse 17, use existing 7.5A fuse. Power exits the fuse box at pin 16, connector C551. Fuse 2, insert 20A fuse since it's normally unused. Power leaves the fuse box at pin 9, C551. If you help me understand why you don't want to wire it this way, then this helps me help you further. This is also how you would "do it right the first time". This way leaves your accessory slots open such as the C926 you mentioned. Also relieves you of the need to muck around with inline fuses. Simple, clean, OEM install.

 

Its really more an 'ease of access' thing. But I think since I'm getting to the back of the fusebox anyway for low side power, I might as well also do the same for high side.

I really just need to get it done.

 

Ah, I see.

Ironically, in all the time you've spent writing this post up, you could be done the wiring work.

 

You cant just slap in higher amp fuses and expect the wiring to that circuit be able to handle it

 

I keep telling myself that everyday mang!
I been helping a friend try to get a new car the last few days, because his 02 F150's motor seized. He was gunna buy a 08 Sonata, but friend's don't let friends buy **** cars. I was trying to get him into a Honda, but he just wasn't really in love with them. But we both found a car we agree on: a 2005 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS Wagon, with an Auto. I'd love it if he got it. It has 166K on the clock, but it's a good starter car for an import, and asking price is 6,995. We gon try to talk him down closer to KBB value.

That's what I'm worried about. But I'm saying I'd repin a new wire into an unused pin, for a usually unused slot. Meaning there isn't any wiring for the slot I'd be occupying, yet. Am I making sense?

 

I would suppose that the empty fuse slots you are referring to are able to be "pinned", if that's the case, as long as there arent any bridged circuits in the fuse box in the same slot you propose to use (and i dont think that honda bridged many fuses in the box), you CAN certainly wire up a blank slot to utilize ANY fuse amperage you like..PROVIDING your wiring from and to the box is of appropriate gauge to handle the amperage being pushed through it. We don't want anyone starting car fires here. Good luck.

EDIT: https://honda-tech.com/tech-misc-15/...2A%2A-3128085/ is a link to a sticky in the Tech/Misc forums about choosing your wiring based on load and length.

 

Alright, I'll check that write up out. I got as much OEM colored wiring as I could, so I'm gunna wire it as close as possible to OEM as well.

 

Update: I got the seats done! I used slots 17 and 2, just like I should've. The seat pads don't work, but I'm getting power to the switch so I know it's the pads.

 

You might also wish to check for power AT the connector(s) closest to the pads in the seats. If you still have power at those connectors...yeah, bad pads/internal short.

 

Check for power on the outside of the switch. When I did this retro fit, I had soldered some OEM connectors to the power connector of the heated pads (Granted I used aftermarket pads ) and confirmed I was getting power just before the pads.

 

Hmm, alright. I have to wait to get a multimeter until i get my first major bit of cash. Been unemployed for about a month, up until last friday

 

Go online, get free coupon, get free crappy multimeter at Harbor freight.