In this diagram it looks like my D15B7 breather chamber box has a PCV valve just after the grommet from the breather box but when I disassembled the hose I found no PCV valve, I just replaced the upper valve that sits on the intake. I'm getting oil sucked up into the hoses its dumbed down quite a bit after replacing the upper valve but still get it some, which I am thinking this could be why I am burning oil when I give it 3/4 to full throttle.

Can anyone verify that there is 2 PCV valves or if there is only one?

 

1 PCV valve.

 

Thank you for clarifying that, any idea to why oil would be coming up through there?

 

Just one like Ron demonstrated with the service manual.

If you look on the parts sites, the part you are referring to is a PCV connector. It's not an actual valve. It's a double male connector.

I verified it's a pass through connector when I replaced the grommet and o-ring on the breather box last year.



As you can see, they call it a joint as it is definitely not a valve.

#6 is the PCV valve.

 

Have you tested the valve?

 

yeah the valve works great, just picked it up Friday old one was dirty and gummy, I've checked the oil yesterday and today so far the loss is barely noticeable but I'll check it over the next couple days. going to clean the breather box here soon also it was pretty dirty last I checked.

 

Where is oil leaking?

 

oil is being sucked up into my mani from the breather chamber assembly up through the pcv valve, other then that the engine leaks nothing at all. just burns oil when I give it 3/4 to full throttle.

 

Sounds like a worn piston rings/blow by issue.

 

figured.... stupid block.. I don't understand why someone would swap a blown motor for one that's barely alive, I wish I could have a few words with the guy I picked this civic up off of you tell someone you got a newborn and need something that will last at leased the year and the dude lies to me every inch of the way pfft.

looks like I'm looking at pulling that D15 out of there.

 

Unfortunately, the world is filled with unscrupulous sellers. Eventually, you learn that there are few people you can really trust and that your wisest strategy can be summarized in a well known phrase: "Caveat emptor". Good luck.

 

lol yeah beware! I learned my lesson on this one made a bad buy and should of looked around a bit more, maybe I'll keep it and try my hand at a D16Z6 and manual conversion swap over.

Looking at picking up an Accord with the a K24 this upcoming tax season for the girlfriend and the baby.

 

Please protect them from the bad guys.

 

A compression test can tell you if the combustion rings are shot. If your numbers are good, you can try Marvel Mystery Oil for a few oil changes and see if it unsticks the oil control rings. Just don't go over the max recommended amount and don't expect instant results, it's a slow cleaning process.

There is no test for the control rings.

 

Just got paid a day early :D.

So for now until I decided if this will leave my parking lot this upcoming march or stay, I'll be picking up some MMO.

I need to recheck the valve clearance "valvetrain is pretty ticky noisy" but I'm not sure if this is because of the 10W30 I'm running so I'm thinking of dropping back down to some 5W30 along with the MMO for a oil change.

 

Are you going to do a dry then wet compression test?

A compression tester is like 30 bucks or less. If you'd like instructions I'll gladly provide more information to get a clear result.

The test will provide you a wealth of information.

 

Is there a reason why your using that weight, instead of the recommended weight oil?

 

10W-30 is also recommended.

5W-30 is "preferred". Both 5W and 10W are in the manual so technically fall under recommended oils. 5W is titled as preferred.

It's really hard to see but both 10W and 5W is there on the chart: