So after 3 days of constant research and tinkering im at a loss. I have an idle that will occasionaly roam from 1100 to 2000, occasionally be steady at 2000, occasionally be steady at 1500, and will drop to 900 for a brief second after letting in the clutch, then bounce back up( any gear when moving, not trans or clutch related). Ive replaced and checked the following:

IACV
TPS
Adjusted throttle body stop screw (was missing)
did idle relearn
clean the **** out of all parts related to air intake
checked at least 5 times for vacuum leaks and replaced most hoses/hose clamps to all ports on intake.
Replaced stock fuel pump with high flow one
bled air from coolant
advanced and retarded dizzy(changed idle speed a bit but definitely did not solve)

All of that did absolutely nothing to my idle, im currently running a basemap for my setup which i realize isnt perfect AT ALL however ive never heard of an idle issue being purely ecu related? Anyone have any ideas? I have a hulog datalogger and ostrich 2.0 coming in the mail on monday so i will find out then if it is actually the ecu. Ive been trying to get everything mechanical sorted out for proper tuning and this is driving me crazy -.-

Build:
b20vtec
ys1 big spline tranny
aem cold air intake
skunk 2 throttlebody
some aftermarket intake manifold
aem fuel rail with stock injectors
gsr cams

a thing to note: i do not know what fuel octane the basemap is for, im running 91 but im afraid to try lower ones

 

Well, I'm not too familiar with the B20 engines, but that idle sounds way too high to begin with. i would venture to guess that idle SHOULD be between 650-800 rpm MAXIMUM when at operating temp. Also, when googling to find actual specs, all I found was a crapload of threads with your same problem....If anyone has the specs, feel free to correct me...fI currently deal with D16s...so yeah...good luck.

 

did you look for a vacuum leak? didnt see that in the list.

 

Yea i checked at least 5 times for vacuum leaks =/ im going to try bleeding the coolant again and messing with throttle body today just so i feel like im getting closer to fixing this -.-

something i forgot to post:
when the idle is roaming the iacv is causing it, with the intake off the litle port that goes to it sucks more air in as the goes up then less as it goes down. Its done that with 2 different iacv's so i can only imagine that would be the ecu?

 

You can't adjust ignition timing without the idle being corrected first. How did you adjust the idle, I need that in detail to see if you did it wrong or not.

 

well adjusting idle with a roaming and high idle when the idle screw was already all the way in is rather difficult. Here is the order in which i did everything (i did not touch the idle screw originally, previous owner decided to mess with it -.-)

1) Throttle would stick: found there was no stop screw and installed it, screwing it in JUST after the idle changes SLIGHTLY
2)Checked every single linne and gasket intake side for leaks, nothing
3)Sprayed cleaner all up in throttle body at idle and throttle
4)knocked on the iacv when it was roaming to no effect, took it off and replaced it regardless
5)installed high flow fuel pump since it is a 2l up from 1.6, thought maybe fuel starvation(afr gauge was reading lean, very very lean)
6) moved dizzy around with little effect(probably because its lean)
7) realized i never checked coolant so idid (was a little low but not bad)
8)I screwed the idle screw out about halfway then dod the idle relearn (unplug battery terminal, wait 10 min, reconnect and startup holding revs at 3k until fan comes on then idle for 15min)

steps im taking next:
multimeter to the tps, i have a new one that im installing regardless
new fuel filter (not related to this)
bleeding air from coolant and topping off again(yes with the heater on hig
h and fan off)

Hope thats enough info for you

and after all of that my idle has climbed to 2.2k and when i let clutch in when moving the diel tends to stay at 2.5k until i stop then it moves down to 1.5-2k

 

Look for a FITV (fast idle thermo valve) beneath the throttle body area. It will not have an electrical plug on it, just coolant hoses. Do you see anything like that on your motor?

 

already looked for one, there isnt one (motor is from a 99 crv)

 

You said your AFRs were reading "very very lean". Were you using a wideband to verify this, or just your stock narrowband and some assumptions? If you have a wideband, why? What other modifications are there that you aren't telling us about? What ECU are you using? Is it chipped, tuned, or in any way "fucked with"?

 

Wideband, thats because i have an emulator and datalogger coming tmr so i can tune it. Its a chipped p28 (currently using a b20vtec basemap) that was modified from an automatic to manual. Ive tried a gsr and typer ecu as well with roughly the same thing. The afr is between 15-16 on idle depending on how idle is, wot is like 14.5 cruising is like 15.8 so its lean

I mentioned in the OP that i was running a basemap but i have never heard of idle issues using one

 

A chipped P28 with exactly what chip in it? Exactly what head are you using? Exactly what intake manifold, and intake manifold gasket are you using?

 

again i say its running a basemap... b16a head, skunjk 2 tb, aem intake mainifold, unknown intake gasket.

 

Where did you get the basemap? It's entirely possible that it's absolute ****. Actually, given those AFRs, it wouldn't surprise me if it was absolute ****. If you block one or both ports in the throttle body with your finger(s), does it change the idle at all? Is the CEL on? Does it work?

 

lol im definitely not disagreeing. I only got it to run while i waited for my tuning hardware to come. Yes blocking the iacv port changes idle a lot, almost stalling it, no cel, yes the ecu does still work as intended lol, i can make the cel come on by unplugging sensors etc

 

If plugging your IACV port makes the car almost stall, then it sounds like your IACV is stuck open, or has a vacuum leak somewhere in it.

 

ive tried 2 others though, so my thought is the ecu is keeping it open?

 

Either keeping it open, or the gasket between the IACV and IM has failed, and is letting air in where it shouldn't be going.

 

im 99% sure its not the gasket, i checked it upon installation. I also sprayed carb cleaner. Ive spent too much time looking for vacuum leaks...

https://honda-tech.com/acura-integra...thing-3172789/

post number 9, seems like it could be a viable cause. i will find out tmr

 

Yeah, that's what I was getting at with the "shitty basemap" thing. If your idle isn't tuned properly, no amount of ferretting in the WORLD with the hardware on the engine itself will make the car idle correctly. I think I remember you saying you were planning on checking your TPS, but did you calibrate it with a voltmeter yet? If your ECU thinks you're at 20% throttle when you're idling, it could also do something like this.

 

yea i installed a new tps today, .48v at idle and 4.5 at WOT, i definitely agree that the basemap coould be the issue, ive just never heard of a basemap doing this before

 

All it takes is one number out of place in one cell...

 

Update time, got my hulog and ostrich and plugged them in and started making a basemap to throw into my ecu. After putting a new basemap in there the first thing i did (and only thing i could be really, since i had noone to d rive while i tuned) was get the afr at idle correct. Idle with the basemap was decent (like 900) but the afr was horrid so i began adding fuel and watched the idle climb (at this point the bouncy idle was solved so it was the old map being wierd with the iacv) i had to adjust the iacv compensation to -50% and still am only able to get idle to about 1100 HOWEVER that is without adjusting the throttlebody stop screw. I need to get a new throttle cable and spring assembly because this one sticks which is also part of my high idle.

Long story short:
basemap caused the roaming idle and didnt help with it being high
i need to fine tune throttle cable and tb assembly.

SO for now i am calling this solved, thanks to anyone who offered input on this thread its always nice to see i have responses lol

 

1100 is still too high of an idle. It'll probably be over 2000 when it's cold.

Your throttle body gasket could be leaking.

 

i know its still to0 high, ive sprayed carb sleaner on it tons of times but i suppose an actual inspection with it off couldnt hurt. I do need to take the tb off anyways to see why its still sticking (gas pedal has a slight stick to it when pressing in), and if i pull the gas pedal out or push on the tb lever assembly the idle does drop a bit (probably around 100). Another reason the idle is high is because i might have the stop screw too far in because i was trying to get rid of the sticking issue. At any rate the search has been narrowed down extremely so theres that, and now that i can datalog i can get real time input from all my sensors and see if one is misbehaving

 

im aware, im mostly assuming thats because its throws off the tps values, however i recalibrated it after doing that. Ive got the idle almost spot on after some tuning, however im taking off mt tb and cleaning everything out and making sure the 2 brass screws are tight because its acting like the plate isnt going to the same position eveytime