When to perform Valve Adjustment & Where is the Fuel Filter?
My gf has a 2002 Accord SE (SOHC) that has 176k miles on it. What is the trigger or sign to get a valve adjustment? Miles, years, certain noise? I've noticed the car generally has little power when it downshifts then at a much higher rpm. It just sounds like large fan is blowing and not a lot of acceleration. At idle or normal acceleration the engine is quiet.
Where is the fuel filter located for this car?
I did read the FAQ and 3/4 pages looking for an answer. It talked more about how and not when to do the valve adjustment.
Thanks
Where is the fuel filter located for this car?
I did read the FAQ and 3/4 pages looking for an answer. It talked more about how and not when to do the valve adjustment.
Thanks
If you go buy Honda's recommendations, the valve adjustment should be checked every 84 months or 168,000km (approx. 100k miles) which ever comes first. Another thing they state is adjust them if they become noisy. You will hear a clattering from under the valve cover if they are really loose. A little bit of a tic is normal for these engines.
Some things to look for to see if they are tight would be, poor performance, lower fuel economy, and possible back fire though exhaust or intake (if they are really bad).
As for the fuel filter. It is located back by the fuel tank, just in front of the drivers side wheel well if I remember correctly.
Some things to look for to see if they are tight would be, poor performance, lower fuel economy, and possible back fire though exhaust or intake (if they are really bad).
As for the fuel filter. It is located back by the fuel tank, just in front of the drivers side wheel well if I remember correctly.
So what do you guess is the issue? Valve adjustment, poor compression? The car doesn't have the check engine light on. Over the last two years we've repaired / rebuilt most of the car.
I consider the performance poor and the car gets 22-24 mpg with mixed city / highway driving. The engine is quite at idle but sounds like a loud fan when the RPMs is 4k or higher. Its working, but doesn't really accelerate once we're at highway speeds when it downshifts.
Rebuilt Automatic 4 speed Transmission
Catalytic Converter
Water Pump
Starter
Timing Belt (both)
Tune-up (Distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, PCV Valve, engine air filters, spark plug wires, brake fluid, power steering fluid, anti-freeze fluid)
Replaced all of the leaking AC valves
Wind Shield wiper motor
Oxygen Sensors (Engine and exhaust)
Front and rear engine mounts
MAP Sensor
I consider the performance poor and the car gets 22-24 mpg with mixed city / highway driving. The engine is quite at idle but sounds like a loud fan when the RPMs is 4k or higher. Its working, but doesn't really accelerate once we're at highway speeds when it downshifts.
Rebuilt Automatic 4 speed Transmission
Catalytic Converter
Water Pump
Starter
Timing Belt (both)
Tune-up (Distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, PCV Valve, engine air filters, spark plug wires, brake fluid, power steering fluid, anti-freeze fluid)
Replaced all of the leaking AC valves
Wind Shield wiper motor
Oxygen Sensors (Engine and exhaust)
Front and rear engine mounts
MAP Sensor
Last edited by rijn; Sep 13, 2014 at 07:58 AM.
accords have terrible ground wires. upgrading them will help ALOT. also u can adjust the valves whenever u want as long as u have feeler gauges. according to EricTheCarGuy valves are just as important as the timing belt replacement
Yes. I don't want to blindly throw money at the situation. I'm assuming people have seen similar issues and can point me in the right direction then give the shop a starting point.
I've had the car serviced at a local Honda dealership, but they're more interested in selling her a new car vs chasing this last gremlin down.
I've had the car serviced at a local Honda dealership, but they're more interested in selling her a new car vs chasing this last gremlin down.
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I didnt say go to a dealership. Ive worked in dealerships for years. They suck when it comes to diagnosing faults. Ask friends,family ,and use the web to find a good independent repair shop.....
Run a compression test to see what it says.
Are you sure that the timing is correct? When I did my timing belt, my car had TERRIBLE low end, but SPRING to life all day long between 4k RPM - redline. I could not live with this, because I tow a lot with my car, and I am used to power down low. The only solution to bringing my car back to normal was to put the timing 1 tooth off. I drive with my RPM between 2-3k. I hardly go over 3k, and when I do, I definitely do not go over 4k. Is your low power only beyond 4k?
You can check the valve adjustment yourself with a feeler gauge though. It shouldnt be too hard. If it is way out, you will be able to tell. The adjustment is what is harder. It is easy to check using the feeler gauge.
Are you sure that the timing is correct? When I did my timing belt, my car had TERRIBLE low end, but SPRING to life all day long between 4k RPM - redline. I could not live with this, because I tow a lot with my car, and I am used to power down low. The only solution to bringing my car back to normal was to put the timing 1 tooth off. I drive with my RPM between 2-3k. I hardly go over 3k, and when I do, I definitely do not go over 4k. Is your low power only beyond 4k?
You can check the valve adjustment yourself with a feeler gauge though. It shouldnt be too hard. If it is way out, you will be able to tell. The adjustment is what is harder. It is easy to check using the feeler gauge.
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