91 Civic EF, how you guys replace alternator??
I have a upcoming 800-mile non-stop trip. I am thinking of taking it with my civic. The alternator's making slight noise, but it is charging, not a big deal for daily drive. Today I took off the mounting bolts (not a big job, easy),. I spin pulley and hear some slight grinding sound (bearing bad for sure.) Then I tried to get it out. I tried from top and from bottom. Either way is impossible. If you go from bottom you will need to take off the CV axle,. big job. If you try to get from top, there is simply no room.... I don't know why those Youtube people claim they can get from top or from bottom...maybe just because mine is a 91 EF?
Anyway...I took off nuts for the intake manifold, and took intake manifold off the cylinder head, and move it to the left to make more room for the alternator to come out... and it works... do you guys do the same while replacing alternators?
After I took the manifold off head, coolant coming out.. I guess there are water channels.....I was careful not to damage the gasket... I have a question regarding the gasket.. What if I put some silicone liquid gasket on existing gasket and mating surface just to make sure there will be absolute no leak? Does it sound good idea or it is a no no...??
Thanks
Anyway...I took off nuts for the intake manifold, and took intake manifold off the cylinder head, and move it to the left to make more room for the alternator to come out... and it works... do you guys do the same while replacing alternators?
After I took the manifold off head, coolant coming out.. I guess there are water channels.....I was careful not to damage the gasket... I have a question regarding the gasket.. What if I put some silicone liquid gasket on existing gasket and mating surface just to make sure there will be absolute no leak? Does it sound good idea or it is a no no...??
Thanks
I was able to sneak the alt over to the passenger side and just have to use a couple of hoses to get it out. Pain in the butt, still easier than what you did.
Also this is a good video on how to do it next time. He gives good detail on how he did it.
Also this is a good video on how to do it next time. He gives good detail on how he did it.
For me it was easiest to remove the manifold. Also putting the alternator back in was annoying, like trying to make it sit on the bottom bracket and putting that square- end bolt in. Idk how people put it back in without removing the intake.
If the engine is stock, remove the oil filter and it will fall out of the bottom. Never reuse a gasket not designed to do so. In other words, please buy a new one, it will save possible nightmares, especially if going on a long trip. be careful on your trip and good luck.
Regards
Dave
Regards
Dave
D series? without having to do ridiculous extra work.
disconnect battery
remove alternator (2 bolts and the wires and a belt), then set aside in the bay.
remove lower alternator bracket.
remove drivers side plastic splash trim
slide alternator out toward timing side of engine.
Then you can pop your new alternator up there, put the bracket back on, then bolt up alternator.
disconnect battery
remove alternator (2 bolts and the wires and a belt), then set aside in the bay.
remove lower alternator bracket.
remove drivers side plastic splash trim
slide alternator out toward timing side of engine.
Then you can pop your new alternator up there, put the bracket back on, then bolt up alternator.
and pretty much every car manufacturer uses a sliding bushing in the alternator bracket. if the alt. wont go in the bracket at the big pivot bolt, you can carefully tap that bushing out a bit and have plenty of clearance. then when the bolt is tightened it will pull itself close against the alt..
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bEEsKnEEs does it the right way.
If you want to do it a fast way, you can take out the master cylinder from the power booster and move it out of the way. The master or powerbooster does not leak break fluid. The only problem with this method is that you have to slightly bend the master cylinder lines to move it out of the way. Which doesn't harm it, but I'm sure if you have to replace the alternator more than 5 times than the cars life, it will weaken the lines. I had my car for 7 years used, and I only replaced it once.
Mine is the JDM b16a though, so I kinda have to do this method btw
If you want to do it a fast way, you can take out the master cylinder from the power booster and move it out of the way. The master or powerbooster does not leak break fluid. The only problem with this method is that you have to slightly bend the master cylinder lines to move it out of the way. Which doesn't harm it, but I'm sure if you have to replace the alternator more than 5 times than the cars life, it will weaken the lines. I had my car for 7 years used, and I only replaced it once.
Mine is the JDM b16a though, so I kinda have to do this method btw
sorry if this is a repeat as i did not read all the post.
Proper removal the the alternator is from the driver side wheel well. simply turn the steering wheel to the left. jack car up (use jack stands on the front, removal wheel. release slack on belt. removal tensioner, removal of mounting bolt the big one that goes thru the mounting bracket. then remove the mounting bracket set the alternator on the sub frame after bracket is removed you should have all the room in the world to slip the alty out between the plastic and suspension/cv axles.
Proper removal the the alternator is from the driver side wheel well. simply turn the steering wheel to the left. jack car up (use jack stands on the front, removal wheel. release slack on belt. removal tensioner, removal of mounting bolt the big one that goes thru the mounting bracket. then remove the mounting bracket set the alternator on the sub frame after bracket is removed you should have all the room in the world to slip the alty out between the plastic and suspension/cv axles.
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GGMK
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Mar 4, 2012 05:55 PM




