93 dx d15b7 manual obd1
95 ex d16z6 auto obd1

Using the 95 ex shell which was originally a auto.

I swapped the z6 head onto the b7 block, leaving the 5 speed manual on the b7 block.
When I swapped I left harness, IM, TB, PCV setup, Dizzy, cam gear, and sensors all together since this head is original to the shell.
I removed my oil jet yes.
This car is being swapped from auto to manual as well.
I've checked things over even the harness throughout the head though I never disconnected them( unplugged harness on fender walls).


I pulled both motors and did the swap outside the car.
I set piston 1(closest to harmonic balance) to TDC then Installed the head.
Then I lined the cam gear with its witness marks and set the base timing using z6 timing belt.
-this was a little rough but after 45 minutes I got my marks to line up.

Double checked my firing order.
I tripped the clutch safety switch at the center console.

Using obd1 p28 auto computer(known to run with a MT attached)
I just want to hear my first project fire up. She's turning strong but sounds like she's not firing.

 

check grounds. are you getting fuel and spark? what timing gear and belt are you using?

 

Cleaned grounds,
Got fuel
No spark
Z6 cam gear with z6 belt. Understood the tooth count is different from b7 to z6.

 

Played with it a bit today and found that my iacv was running fairly loudly with the key on. Constant cel and by the end of it my fuel pump stopped priming and my main relay started ticking simultaneously with my iacv.

Could the main relay send power to my iacv, kill all power to my ignition source, and keep my cel illuminated?

 

iacv running? what?

 

When the key is set to on position without the motor running my iacv pulses very rapidly and so does my main relay under dash.
I tested wires on tps and got 12v back to all 3 (using battery - as ground) if I ground on t stat grounds I get 5v
Then I checked ecu fuse slot under hood (grounding multi meter on battery - ) and got 12v on battery side of fuse slot and 2.4v on the fender side of fuse holder. I'm confused now.

 

Pulled ecu today and found d10 diode to have a slight surface crack and corrosion had formed.

What exactly is d10 on the p28-a52 board. What does it do? Is this why my main relay is ticking, cel slightly light (dim compared to rest of lights), iacv pulsing with key on but motor off?

What causes d10 to blow?

 

20+ years caused d10 to blow. plug up your p06 just to see if itll start.

 

One thing to note, the Z6 FITV is different part numbers between a manual and an auto, quite possible they don't operate the same and could cause you issues when you go to run a manual ECU being you kept the auto IM and TB. All other sensors and valves on the IM and TB look to be the same.

 

Plugged p75 from my 94 teggy in and turned the key. Didn't get any cel. Nothing.
So I plugged the p28 in and dimly light cel with relay and iacv clicking.


The fitv is controlled by coolant temperature 100% mechanical. The computer would not register this valve.

Thank you though, all input is considered.

 

Ok so I have no continuity to thermostat housing ground. I jumped it to battery negative and she primed, turned once and started right up.

Why is there no continuity to thermostats housing ground location?

 

What is iacv? Im 16 and new to the honda game lol

 

I don't believe I said ECU issues, just issues as in it may not run quite right as it is supposed to. Or maybe the FITV will just need an adjustment once you switch to manual, assuming you can get the plate bolts off without snapping them.

 

Idle Air Control Valve it's on the backside of the throttle body or intake manifold, I forget which, it is both electronic (wire harness) and mechanical (coolant lines).

 

corroded wires, poor contact, etc. clean it well, put a new connector on and go from there